Hey guys, I want to replace the chop saw I have got. It is a $50 special with flimsy steel base which flexes when cutting. This causes cuts to be waaaay off what I want.
Recommendations for a home-diy-hobbyist please! Or are there any plans to replace or reinforce the base on one of these?
Thanks
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Stupid questions are better than stupid mistakes.
Even the above average chop saws flex and cut off the mark. I've owned Hitachi, Makita, and now Milwauke and all have cut off the miter when rushed. When you try to cut slower they heat up and glaze the blade, not really the best thing in the arena for precision cuts. The blade flex is it's biggest problem in my mind. This coming from a guy who has bought three of them, they are handy for quick cuts that don't have to be precise. Besides, if you use one for all your cuts you'll be much better at filling gaps with your welder in the end.
It can be adjusted (with patience) to make very square cuts at 90*, but it does not like miter cutting. The blade will always walk to the outside of the cut.
If you do mostly square cuts, I'm a fan of the DeWalt as the best cost/benefit compromise, and the occasional miter cut can be suitably precise with pre-loading (setting 43* for 45, for example, so the average is in the ballpark and it can be dressed to the desired angle.
If you do primarily miters, you'll do better with a cold-saw or a dry-cut saw, both much costlier in initial outlay and replacement blades.
If you do a mix, with occasional miters that need presicion, a "port-a-band" hand-held band saw is a good choice, if your cuts fall in it's range.
Otto Nobedder wrote:We use the DeWalt at work, regularly.
It can be adjusted (with patience) to make very square cuts at 90*, but it does not like miter cutting. The blade will always walk to the outside of the cut.
If you do mostly square cuts, I'm a fan of the DeWalt as the best cost/benefit compromise, and the occasional miter cut can be suitably precise with pre-loading (setting 43* for 45, for example, so the average is in the ballpark and it can be dressed to the desired angle.
If you do primarily miters, you'll do better with a cold-saw or a dry-cut saw, both much costlier in initial outlay and replacement blades.
If you do a mix, with occasional miters that need presicion, a "port-a-band" hand-held band saw is a good choice, if your cuts fall in it's range.
Steve S
I second this.
ABRASIVE IS TERRIBLE ON MITERS!!!!!!!!!
It will walk to the outside 1/2" to 3/4" and cut into your base.
Like this!!!!
IMG_8308.JPG (86.27 KiB) Viewed 3339 times
IMG_8309.JPG (82.8 KiB) Viewed 3339 times
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I just saw a Makita 4131saw and also a Metal cut off saw Model LC 1230.
I as yet have not had chance to look further into either of these saws so any info would be greatly appreciated.
At the moment we have a Makita cut off saw old type and every time i use it sparks go everywhere including my bald spot.
We don't do enough cutting to warrant a cold saw unfortunately and a band saw forget it. Bloody woodworkers
Cheers
Dave
I have an
Esab LHQ 150
Pro Weld TC256 ACDC multi process Tig Cut MMA
WeldSmart Mig 200IGBT Mig Tig MMA and spool gun
As a follow up from my previous post this is the blade i saw on the net.
Have any of you guys used this blade or have any comments on it. I need something like this for our Workshop in preference to a porta band.
I saw somewhere that they had a 100 tooth blade but am unable to find one. The blade in question has 60 teeth. http://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-305mm ... ut-off-saw
I have an
Esab LHQ 150
Pro Weld TC256 ACDC multi process Tig Cut MMA
WeldSmart Mig 200IGBT Mig Tig MMA and spool gun
Invest in good cold cut saw, you will wonder how you ever lived without one. I use an Evolution 355 which has a cast aluminum base. No flexing of the base and nice straight cuts.
I used an Evolution Rage 2 and loved it. My only issue was that the head was not square to the base, so all of your cuts were perfectly straight across, but sloped from top to bottom... like this \ obviously not that bad, but I started working at a different shop before I could rectify the problem.
Makita LC 1230 or Morse 14". The Jancy is about the same as the Morse. That Makita beats them both(after almost a year of use).I think I'll order another right now. Just in case............
Companies these daze seem to discontinue long lasting tools in favor of Disney-esque nonsense." Oh look ! A center punch with a built in ruler....free if you buy an M-12 Fool, heated asz warmer ! "
Milwaukee crap is now a prime example of that philosophy. I figure the five year warranty will bury them soon.
The rage is my go to for every thing from alum, steel wood, & plastic.It cuts so much
faster than other chop saws & so many different materials.No heat after a cut & no burrs.
Honestly....in comparison to a bandsaw....a chopsaw is almost useless. Do yourself a favor and buy a bandsaw. Milwaukee makes an excellent one....portable one....you can make any cut you want....clean, straight, done!
Will the band saw make straight cuts like the dry cut saw or will it flex and cut inaccurately? Also will the band's cut both steel and aluminum with the same blade?
pretty much when you need a band saw you need a band saw
when you need a chop saw you need a chop saw like apples to oranges.
i don't see one being better just different applications
htp invertig 221
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil