[Penfield]

Greetings. I am working on a pallet for for my tractor front end loader. I purchased a 1/2 inch thick mild steel skid steer plate. I need to attach tines to it. I bought some 3x5 inch rectangular tubing with 3/8 inch thick walls and cut it to 5 inches. I want to weld these pieces of tubing to the skid steer plate.
The top and bottom welds will be easy because they are simple lap welds. The side welds will be more difficult for me because the tubing is curved. I hope you can see that in the pic.
This is my plan: 1/8 inch 7018 with an old Linde 305 welder. I do not know the amperage because it is so old it does not have an amperage readout. I want to weld around the tubing in 8 short welds. The direction of the welds and the sequence is shown in one of these pics. I plan on two passes. The first pass will be a simple straight drag. The second pass will be a Z from side to side and will follow the same sequence as the first pass. I do not know if this is a good plan or not. Any comments or advice would be helpful.

[cj737]

If you tack the tubes well (6-8 tacks) you should have no issues running a full weld on each side without stopping. A 5” long section won’t consume an entire stick rod, so you’ll be fine.

If you want to avoid any distortion, you can tack the skid plate on the edges to something else. This helps prevent any curling in the sheet, because no matter what, welding causes distortion.

I don’t see any need for multiple passes on the sides. A single pass will provide adequate penetration and strength. Don’t worry about “filling” the curvature. Just get the rod in there and make sure your hitting the tube and the plate.

[Penfield]

My desire for two passes was to prevent what happened with my original pallet fork shown in the pic. It was a factory weld and the plate was 1/4 inch. Maybe I am overly concerned with this one. Do you think the top and bottom welds still need two passes?

[cj737]

Normally, the reason a weld like that fails is the end of the weld doesn’t wrap around the edge of the plate. For your tubes, if you weld them around fully, then I see no need.

Think about that failed piece. If there is shear stress applied, and only one side is welded, then the vertical piece is weak. If you collide the horizontal plate into something hard enough, or drop something heavy on it, all that impact stress is applied to a straight, incomplete weld. You want the vertical pieces to be fully wrapped to prevent them from tipping against a fillet weld, being pushed backward from a frontal strike, or having to withstand all the force of a load directly by a single weld.

If you want to 2 pass it, feel free. But a single, proper pass that fully encompasses the tube should hold the whole world. 7018 rod has a tensile strength of 70,000 PSI. If your forklift can break that, you need to take some operators lessons

[Penfield]

I do abuse my pallet forks. I don't lift pallets. I have used them to lift the front end of the tractor up off the ground to get unstuck out of a mud hole. I take very heavy stumps with dirt on them and shake them up and down to knock the dirt off so they are lighter and easier to burn. I ram them into a log pile and lift up to see what will loosen up. I really need a grapple for this type work but they cost at least $2500 and this pallet fork with the repurposed tines will cost less than $300 and be massively stronger than my 1/4 inch one that was not up to my abuse. I appreciate the advice.

[cj737]

Well based upon that description, I don’t think the plate or tubes are adequate to withstand the abuse. The material only warrants a single pass, but your “usage” suggests a D9 dozer. Sheesh, be careful buddy.

[bobthebiker]

I honestly have to agree. Yes your proposed idea will cost less now. BUT long term, let's look at the down time when something breaks again. You really need to get the right tools for the job here. IT sounds to me like a D9 isn't exactly appropriate either, but a Cat 320 class excavator with a hydraulic thumb and rake probably would be much more appropriately suited and withstand the abuse far better.


Remember, you need to use the right tool for the right job. The wrong tool will never be as good as the right one.

[cj737]

IT sounds to me like a D9 isn't exactly appropriate either...

That was a facetious comment, made tongue-in-cheek. Anyone who knows what a D9 is, knows they're powerful and nearly indestructible. He sounds as though he has a large hammer and every problem is nail (mentality). But in the end, we have to do with what we have. Kudos for him to at least upgrading the fixture to sustain more abuse than previously.

But you're right: the right tool for the right job is always best and cheapest.

[bobthebiker]

I can agree with your assessment. I have a similar approach ultimately, I like building overkill for whatever my needs are. Sledge hammer? I've got one with a steel pipe and a bolt fitted inside that. one with a CV axleshaft welded in. THAT one isn't breaking anytime soon. I'm working on another one that will have a complete axle shaft from a Ram 1500 at about 30" of 1.5" diameter solid steel attached to a 16lb head for that "I SAID COME OFF!" moment when I'm absolutely done asking, and beyond playing around.

[cj737]

I can agree with your assessment. I have a similar approach ultimately, I like building overkill for whatever my needs are. Sledge hammer? I've got one with a steel pipe and a bolt fitted inside that. one with a CV axleshaft welded in. THAT one isn't breaking anytime soon. I'm working on another one that will have a complete axle shaft from a Ram 1500 at about 30" of 1.5" diameter solid steel attached to a 16lb head for that "I SAID COME OFF!" moment when I'm absolutely done asking, and beyond playing around.

I have an Oxy torch for those moments. I have yet to find anything that withstand a few minutes of focus from it

[bobthebiker]

I have an Oxy torch for those moments. I have yet to find anything that withstand a few minutes of focus from it

I do too, I also have a fair amount of anger to release, so..... HAMMMARRRRRRRR!!!!!!!! The blue flame wrench is generally a last resort when smashing fails. Although at times, the torch is far more appropriate, like those seized bolts I should've just heated instead of smashing.

That said, I'd love to see the OP's setup in full, and maybe we can get a few better ideas how to improve it.

[Penfield]

I made the welds. I chose 6010 to get penetration on the sides with the curve. I left the top and bottom with 6010 only. The sides filled in with 7018 mainly for looks, but it will add strength.
I have three time holders and they are offset on purpose. This gives me a 39,23 and 16 inch spacing on my tines.
The factory weld that is very thin in that corner bothers me. I think I will fill it in with 7018. I also need to cut the headache rack off the old pallet fork and weld it to this one.
The tines are a little loose so I want to weld some 1/8 inch spacer plates to the tines to tighten it up. Then I will paint. It takes me awhile because I can only work on it on the weekends and I am slow.

[Penfield]

I made the welds. I chose 6010 to get penetration on the sides with the curve. I left the top and bottom with 6010 only. The sides filled in with 7018 mainly for looks, but it will add strength.
I have three time holders and they are offset on purpose. This gives me a 39,23 and 16 inch spacing on my tines.
The factory weld that is very thin in that corner bothers me. I think I will fill it in with 7018. I also need to cut the headache rack off the old pallet fork and weld it to this one.
The tines are a little loose so I want to weld some 1/8 inch spacer plates to the tines to tighten it up. Then I will paint. It takes me awhile because I can only work on it on the weekends and I am slow.

[Penfield]

The pics