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Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 6:39 pm
by AKweldshop
All cuts at 15 deg.
mig .035 19.5v 225ipm.

Enjoy.

~John


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Re: Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:06 pm
by motox
john
cool job
do you ever sleep???
craig

Re: Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:20 pm
by AKweldshop
motox wrote:john
cool job
do you ever sleep???
craig

Once every night.

Some of these jobs I've posted lately, are months old, some even a year old.

Re: Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:25 pm
by Tubal
Nice work....couple of questions:

How much do they weigh?

If one was going to build these with just an old AC/DC stick machine, which rod is favored?

Thanks,
Andy

Re: Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:27 pm
by AKweldshop
Tubal wrote:Nice work....couple of questions:

How much do they weigh?

If one was going to build these with just an old AC/DC stick machine, which rod is favored?

Thanks,
Andy

Not more then 30 lbs.
The one that has blue legs is 2x2 by 1/8" wall tubing.
The other one is 1.5x1.5 by 1/8" wall tubing.
You can build them as heavy or light as you want to.

If I was gonna stick um, prolly 3/32" 7018 around 80amps.

Re: Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:44 pm
by Tubal
Hey, thanks mucho....trying to soak in that knowledge.

Re: Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 10:16 pm
by AKweldshop
Tubal wrote:Hey, thanks mucho....trying to soak in that knowledge.
It's free for the taking. :)

Re: Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:17 am
by Rick_H
Nice John, and with the metal casters you won't fight a grounding issue. Those will come in handy for sure...

Re: Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:49 pm
by AKweldshop
Rick_H wrote:Nice John, and with the metal casters you won't fight a grounding issue. Those will come in handy for sure...

Not sure what you mean,
I'm going to tack those casters to the top, and roll a big piece of pipe while I weld it.

Re: Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 11:22 pm
by Braehill
John,
If I were the one building those, I would center the two casters to where they are almost touching each other and drill and tap the two holes on each that are closest to the center line. Then move out about an inch on each and do the same, giving you a two inch gap in between. That way you can use the close gap for smaller pipe and it will not try and ride up the casters for large pipe. Heavy pipe causes a lot of friction and wants to ride up and over the wheels. You don't have to do the outside holes because the pipe is only putting outward pressure on the casters. then you can use them as flat top horses without grinding off your tacks. Just a thought to make them more handy.

Len

Re: Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 7:56 pm
by Rick_H
Braehill wrote:John,
If I were the one building those, I would center the two casters to where they are almost touching each other and drill and tap the two holes on each that are closest to the center line. Then move out about an inch on each and do the same, giving you a two inch gap in between. That way you can use the close gap for smaller pipe and it will not try and ride up the casters for large pipe. Heavy pipe causes a lot of friction and wants to ride up and over the wheels. You don't have to do the outside holes because the pipe is only putting outward pressure on the casters. then you can use them as flat top horses without grinding off your tacks. Just a thought to make them more handy.

Len

Good advice, I learned that last time I built some rollers for 4in schedule 80.

John, what I ment for grounding is you can clamp tonypir horse frame and since you have all metal casters you'll have no issues.

Re: Homemade steel sawhorses.

Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 11:07 am
by jwright650
AKweldshop wrote:
Rick_H wrote:Nice John, and with the metal casters you won't fight a grounding issue. Those will come in handy for sure...

I'm going to tack those casters to the top, and roll a big piece of pipe while I weld it.
Ah...OK, I was going to suggest adding a piece of 3/4" roll bar to the center of the top of the tube where material would be sitting.

At the fab shop where I used to work all of the tables were built that way, however they were long enough to hip-bump the pipe across the table to turn it as they welded. The round bar makes a good place for the piece to ground itself to the table and not give you arc strikes all over...and makes it easier to hip-bump the pipe as you weld around it.