[rick9345]

Caution on motorcycle exhaust studs (especially Harley Davidson) the studs are interferance fit and when broken flush, welding just won't due. I set up in my mill and use an endmill to remove stud to head threads and s sharp pick to unwind remaining debris. Drills wonder off center

[motox]

rick thanks for that info but most of my stuff is
older two stroke race bikes, i never work on Harleys.
most times its head bolts, carbs studs or swing arm chain
adjusters from guys that haven't found anti
sieze or proper lubs.
craig

[motox]

sometimes lefthand drills will work as well.

[Val-Weld]

Hi Rick, I've been that deep on one of those H.D.'S an your right on the Head! Sun of guns won't backout fer nuttin! Even a 2014! Lol

[450dualsport]

sometimes lefthand drills will work as well.

I have been curious about that so I ordered a set today. Have you ever tried them?

I'm pretty sure that I will be using the welding method to get these out. Either way, when it comes to broken bolts, I don't think it can hurt to have a few different tools in the arsenal.

[rick9345]

spend good money(lots) on LH set the cheap stuff just don't work. Turn them slow RPM and steady.
In this case good'real good quaility counts.

[Otto Nobedder]

It occurs to me that this is likely a steel stud in an aluminum head.

I would think, after welding the washer/nut, heating the head to 500* in the kitchen stove before turning the wrench will help. The aluminum will expand more than the steel. (That's how they "interference-fit" it in the first place.)

If you try this...

Whether it works or not, return the head to the oven and cool it slowly after your attempt, so it doesn't warp.

Steve S.

[rick9345]

It occurs to me that this is likely a steel stud in an aluminum head.

I would think, after welding the washer/nut, heating the head to 500* in the kitchen stove before turning the wrench will help. The aluminum will expand more than the steel. (That's how they "interference-fit" it in the first place.)

If you try this...

Whether it works or not, return the head to the oven and cool it slowly after your attempt, so it doesn't warp.

Steve S.

YES
&YES
&YES

[motox]

all of the broken cylinder studs i have removed of the last 30 years have
had threads. building up the broken stud a little at a time till there is
enough protrudung to grab with vice grip. this has never warped or over heated the
aluminum. a tap with a hammer, some paraffin and small vice grips
frees it every time. it may take two or three attempts but it has
alway worked for me. note all have been Japanese bikes.

[450dualsport]

Lots of great advice in this thread! If you work on anything, it's not a question of "if" but "when" you will have to remove a broken stud or bolt.

[jrogers80]

The washer method works well for me usually all the time. Sometimes it takes a few times welding the nut back to the washer but it works. Burn it in good this will help heat up the bolt and loosen the junk traped in the threads (usually turns the dirt and gunk to dust) I have used some special rods before when the bolt breaks off below flush and these work super well...

[450dualsport]

I finally got around to this project today. I was not successful. Every time I got the washer and nut welded on, it just broke off. I think the problem was that there was not enough heat to fuse everything to the stud. When I cranked up the amps, then the washer would start to burn away. Obviously, I didn't want to weld the stud in to the frame. I tried drilling the stud and making a washer out of 1/8" flat bar hoping that by filling the stud with weld that it would stick. No luck.

It seems to me that this is somewhat of a "surgical" procedure and that TIG would be best as you could actually puddle the stud as Jody did in his video. Due to the awkward, overhead position of the stud, using TIG for this was way beyond my skill level.

In the end, I was able to drill it out and re-tap the hole. For those that have used the washer and nut method, how do you get enough heat on the stud to get good fusion, but not weld it in?

Thanks.

[weldin mike 27]

The most important thing to consider is why the bolt broke off. If its rusted or heat corroded or just broken off by a mechanical force, you should be able to get it out. But if its galled or cross threaded or something similar, Its not coming out no matter what.

Glad to be around people who can see welding as a passion.

[450dualsport]

The most important thing to consider is why the bolt broke off. If its rusted or heat corroded or just broken off by a mechanical force, you should be able to get it out. But if its galled or cross threaded or something similar, Its not coming out no matter what.

Glad to be around people who can see welding as a passion.

I think it was just rusty. There were 6 bolts and two broke. The other 4 were very tight. I heated them all up then vibrated them really well with a blunt bit in an air chisel. I was then able to back them out a bit with an impact wrench. Once they backed out a bit, I was was able to get some penetrating oil in. It's possible the other two were cross threaded, but I don't think so...

[weldin mike 27]

Another trick is to heat melt a candle into it. The heat draws the wax into the thread.

Glad to be around people who can see welding as a passion.

[xwrench]

In my former career as a heavy equipment field mechanic, removing stubborn broken bolts was something I did a lot of. If it is broken flush, you are lucky. I always welded a washer on a size smaller than the bolt, mainly to protect the threads. Then weld a nut on using plenty of amps so you get good penetration. If it's not broken flush, what i always did was use a piece of steel tubing that would fit in the hole and weld inside it to the broken bolt or stud. Then weld a nut on the protruding end. It can be hard finding a tube the right size; I have at times sacrificed a deep impact socket for this (Only thing the HF ones are good for). Also, I only worked with stick welding in the field. Had great luck using this technique with 8018. A couple more things, be sure to let it cool completely before trying to remove it, and penetrating oil is your friend. Hope this helps.
-Eldon

[450dualsport]

Maybe I just didn't use enough amps, but it seemed to me that it would be easy to weld the stud into the hole as the washer was melting away. This was only a 10mm bolt, so perhaps it was too small for this procedure.....