Of course they are all labeled 6010, but let's see how they run. Time to dust off the video camera....
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Burn baby burn!Oscar wrote:Just looking at the red 6010's I already found some physical differences compared to my other 6010s. Therefore I will create a new thread for this 'ultimate 6010 showdown!'
I think the 3 red ones, 4th from the left.Spartan wrote:TTW - So which of those are the rods you bought?
Good to know. And, still looking at that pic, I'm not even going to ask why a vendor would dye their flux blue. But probably makes me glad my gut instinct to avoid Blue Demon rods or consumables has been correct.TraditionalToolworks wrote:I think the 3 red ones, 4th from the left.Spartan wrote:TTW - So which of those are the rods you bought?
The batch on the far right look kind of like my Lincoln 6011 Fleetweld 180-RS, but I'm pretty sure those are 6010 per Oscar's comment.
Maybe he only counterfeited the rods he sold me?Oscar wrote:Although i do have to say, my beads don't look as smooth as TTW's bead with the same rod. Mine are definitely "rippley" like 6010 is expected to be. I guess it's just the angle perspective that makes them look smooth in TTW's pic.
I'm thinking it would have to do with the arc force difference between the two machines. I used my Invertig 400 with 250% arc-force as I usually do with 6010. But I reckon most other TIG welders that also do stick (but with no arc force setting) probably have something like 20-50%? Does the manual specify what it is preset at?TraditionalToolworks wrote:Maybe he only counterfeited the rods he sold me?Oscar wrote:Although i do have to say, my beads don't look as smooth as TTW's bead with the same rod. Mine are definitely "rippley" like 6010 is expected to be. I guess it's just the angle perspective that makes them look smooth in TTW's pic.
Keep in mind, I have no Arc Force on the Primeweld, nor do I have Hot Start, so I don't have many settings. With that said, it did seem to have enough power to burn the rod without having it stick. No guarantees on my welding technique, but I did use a whip-n-pause. AFAIK, it was a similar technique to what I used on the 6011 bead running on the edge of 1/2" plate in the OP.Oscar wrote:I'm thinking it would have to do with the arc force difference between the two machines. I used my Invertig 400 with 250% arc-force as I usually do with 6010. But I reckon most other TIG welders that also do stick (but with no arc force setting) probably have something like 20-50%? Does the manual specify what it is preset at?
Yes I realize you don't have the settings to adjust, but what I was getting at is the the machine more than likely does have one arc-force setting, that is ultimately non-adjustable by the end user, inherent to the programming somewhere inside the circuits of the machine, not an actual button/switch.TraditionalToolworks wrote:Keep in mind, I have no Arc Force on the Primeweld, nor do I have Hot Start, so I don't have many settings.Oscar wrote:I'm thinking it would have to do with the arc force difference between the two machines. I used my Invertig 400 with 250% arc-force as I usually do with 6010. But I reckon most other TIG welders that also do stick (but with no arc force setting) probably have something like 20-50%? Does the manual specify what it is preset at?
Yes, agree, and I make no qualms about the Primeweld, I myself was amazed it could even run the 6010 rod. Enough that I had to order some and test it myself. I don't think my Everlast will run it and it does have an Arc Force setting.Oscar wrote:Yes I realize you don't have the settings to adjust, but what I was getting at is the the machine more than likely does have one arc-force setting, that is ultimately non-adjustable by the end user, inherent to the programming somewhere inside the circuits of the machine, not an actual button/switch.
It sounds more than what it is. It is not a percentage based off off the welding amperage. The Pro Pulse 220MTS/300/Invertig 400 go from 0 to 500% arc force, and the Inverarc 200TLP form 4 to 500% arc force. As you can imagine, there is no way the machine will output 5x the amperage if you are welding at any reasonable amperage. It's more like an arbitrary scale if you ask me. At 150% A.F, if you bury the rod you can get about +30-35% actual increase in amperage, roughly, IIRC. The fact that I have to add so much arc force (on the Pro Pulse 20MTS) is basically to compensate for the machine-- it cannot properly run 6010. The high arc force allows me to keep a very tight arc (tighter than I'd like) and that helps keep rod lit.v5cvbb wrote:You are serious about 250% aren't you. I thought it was a typo. That's some serious dig. Have you checked current versus arc length? That would be interesting to see.
Glad we got that settled with your authoritative exercise.Oscar wrote:So yes, TTW has the only counterfeit 6010 rods that I know of.
It all depends if you really try to bury the rod into the part, because arc force does nothing unless you are very very close and the machine detects a drop in arc voltage.sbaker56 wrote:Hmm, that makes me curious enough to try 6010 from -10 to +10 arc force and see if there are any variations I can notice, I don't remember much when I did try it last time.
Not for nothing but your 6010 beads look similar to mine. Now I'm not the only one with that counterfeit 6010 rod.sbaker56 wrote:5p+ 6010 at around 95 amps, really should've marked a line so they came out less crooked.
top bead is -10 on the arc force, middle is 0 and bottom is +10
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