delraydella
- delraydella
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Mon Apr 25, 2011 7:35 pm
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Location:Detroit, MI
I keep a tube of sunblock on my mig and tig so it's the first thing i see when i roll them out.I don't weld every day, so it's hard to keep in the practice of using it when i do weld, but it's a good practice to get into.
Welding☞Syncrowave 250,Millermatic 252,30a Spoolgun Cutting☞12" Hi-speed Cutoff Saw, 9x 12 Horizontal Bandsaw Milling☞Gorton 8d Vertical Mill Turning☞Monarch EE Precision Lathe Grinding ☞Brown & Sharpe #5 Surface Grinder
Sorry to hear about your friend's wife. I bought a medical hoist from the government auction for $20 and it has become very useful in my shop. (600 lbs capacity.) I use it for lifting heavy objects up on to my work bench in the basement. It resembles an automotive engine hoist but is much smaller and more flexible for the basement. My latest project is converting an electric wheel chair into a GPS programmable lawn mower for the acreage. The newer wheel chairs are usually $50 each at the government auction and they have the direct drive 3-phase motors. Here's an example of what others are doing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZONORxZOxZw
CraigLam wrote:My friends wife had a stroke and he wants a hoist installed over the tub. It involves welding. I have to be at his house tomorrow at 2. It's some type of plate that mounts to the ceiling with a track and an arm that extends out that lowers a sling into the tub. I'll take some photos.es I have at this time.
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- Medical Hoist.jpg (79.98 KiB) Viewed 2228 times
Drowstiq
- Drowstiq
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New Member
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Joined:Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:12 pm
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Location:North New Jersey USA
Yagh - I learned the hard way about the UV rays - when i first was giving stick a go I had "welding Goggles and I got a full face peal 2 times in 1 week....
Since then I got a Rhino auto darken helmet and everything is fine unless I have a "V-Neck" Tshirt on and right below the helmet gets red if I forget to cover up...
Peter
Since then I got a Rhino auto darken helmet and everything is fine unless I have a "V-Neck" Tshirt on and right below the helmet gets red if I forget to cover up...
Peter
That is exactly what the lift looks like except for the sling. I'm headed there tomorrow, to change their toilet seat cover. They actually want me to do some welding on the lift! They want me to weld some gussets on the side so when the lift is swung around it won't tip over. I gotta alot of stuff to remove on the lift so, it won't catch fire. His wife weighs 300 lbs. She's not easily moved around. There is a track lift that will go over the tub. I may have to weld some plate together and bolt it to the ceiling. Not all the bolts of the track will hit the studs where you want them.
As far as the mini bike is concerned, when I finish this side job, I'm gonna jump back on that project. What I'm doing now is a little market research. I've found out so far, that there are NO mini bikes like mine, that are being manufacture on a large scale. The average cost of a mini bike, including all the ones made by Honda and all the other manufacturers, are $2300. What i did find out, is that the Taco Mini Bike 100b costs around $900, give or take. You get the frame, front and rear forks, and shocks. That's it. And that's unpainted. I want to sell my mini bike for $1750. That's complete, in the the box, ready to ship. Whether or not, that will happen, I will still have to do the numbers. There will be a black and chrome, Camo(that one will look really cool), and OD WWII theme. The last version will be the street legal bike. I've looked at speedometer clusters, turn signal stuff and decided that this was do-able. Watching news reports, next year, gas in So-Cal will reach $8 per gallon. The car companies want to develop a motor that delivers a new type of mpg with greater mileage. Yea, right. So, not to get too far off topic, it looks I've got a lot of welding to do if this project takes off. I plan to sell a minimum of 1 or 2 a month.
As far as the mini bike is concerned, when I finish this side job, I'm gonna jump back on that project. What I'm doing now is a little market research. I've found out so far, that there are NO mini bikes like mine, that are being manufacture on a large scale. The average cost of a mini bike, including all the ones made by Honda and all the other manufacturers, are $2300. What i did find out, is that the Taco Mini Bike 100b costs around $900, give or take. You get the frame, front and rear forks, and shocks. That's it. And that's unpainted. I want to sell my mini bike for $1750. That's complete, in the the box, ready to ship. Whether or not, that will happen, I will still have to do the numbers. There will be a black and chrome, Camo(that one will look really cool), and OD WWII theme. The last version will be the street legal bike. I've looked at speedometer clusters, turn signal stuff and decided that this was do-able. Watching news reports, next year, gas in So-Cal will reach $8 per gallon. The car companies want to develop a motor that delivers a new type of mpg with greater mileage. Yea, right. So, not to get too far off topic, it looks I've got a lot of welding to do if this project takes off. I plan to sell a minimum of 1 or 2 a month.
delraydella
- delraydella
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Mon Apr 25, 2011 7:35 pm
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Location:Detroit, MI
Craig,
If you ever get to a point where you need parts production, please let me know. I'd be happy to bid on piecework and will give you a very fair price. I'd need your specs and will provide samples for your approval.
We can do....Lathe , Milling, Sawing, Surface Grind, Edge chamfering/Deburring, Tapping/Threading, Plasma cutting and Welding
Whatever I can't do, a friend of mine has a prototype shop. He can do....Precision Shearing, Press work and Laser cut/ water jet cut.
Other Steve
If you ever get to a point where you need parts production, please let me know. I'd be happy to bid on piecework and will give you a very fair price. I'd need your specs and will provide samples for your approval.
We can do....Lathe , Milling, Sawing, Surface Grind, Edge chamfering/Deburring, Tapping/Threading, Plasma cutting and Welding
Whatever I can't do, a friend of mine has a prototype shop. He can do....Precision Shearing, Press work and Laser cut/ water jet cut.
Other Steve
Welding☞Syncrowave 250,Millermatic 252,30a Spoolgun Cutting☞12" Hi-speed Cutoff Saw, 9x 12 Horizontal Bandsaw Milling☞Gorton 8d Vertical Mill Turning☞Monarch EE Precision Lathe Grinding ☞Brown & Sharpe #5 Surface Grinder
Del, thanks. That's good to know. I met with Steve Tuesday and today I'm going over there to replace his faucet. He selected a ADA tub that is made in China. The welds on the frame are crap. This thing was seriously made in China. It looked like they didn't even use a jig to weld the frame together. They used cheap 1" square tube.
The extra money that I'm making from this job is really coming in handy. When the tub is ordered and I actually start, the mini bike project will be on hold for a week or so. After that, it's pretty much full steam ahead.
The extra money that I'm making from this job is really coming in handy. When the tub is ordered and I actually start, the mini bike project will be on hold for a week or so. After that, it's pretty much full steam ahead.
So, after all the side work is finally done, I'm back on the mini bike. The work for Steve fell thru, thank God, for the ADA handicap lift and tub. Too many headaches. During this time, the outboard I was working finally runs! I started her up last weekend and now is in storage until I build the boat.
The mini bike is another story. The next phase, which I believe I mentioned, is the jack shaft, standoff, sprocket and chain. Then comes the motor. I probably won't start until the end of June. There were a lot of birthdays last month and this month.
As far as the motor is concerned, I'm really leaning towards Carrol Stream 6.5 H.P. as the stock engine that will come with the bike. Honda is way too expensive and I can get an extended warranty with Carrol Stream.
The mini bike is another story. The next phase, which I believe I mentioned, is the jack shaft, standoff, sprocket and chain. Then comes the motor. I probably won't start until the end of June. There were a lot of birthdays last month and this month.
As far as the motor is concerned, I'm really leaning towards Carrol Stream 6.5 H.P. as the stock engine that will come with the bike. Honda is way too expensive and I can get an extended warranty with Carrol Stream.
I just looked at the Carrol Stream site - are those Chinese Honda clones? I just picked up a Predator 212cc at my local Harbor Freight for $90 with a coupon to put on an old Troybilt Pony someone gave me without a head or carb. I googled the reviews on the Predators and a lot of minibike folks and go karters who use that motor. There are hop up kits, Mikuni carb kits etc out there for them. The Carrol Stream motor might be made on the same line and just painted red instead. That motor also looks great if you use a regular motorcycle tank and pull the tank of the block. Looks a lot more like an old Honda Minitrail with the cylinder head exposed that way. The Predators are manufactured by Lifan based on Honda designs. Just a thought.
Dhazelton, thank you for the reply. I spoke with Carrol Stream, twice in length, and they insist the motors are not clones. That's like saying that Vizio is not a clone of Sony. The motors are almost exactly alike. I've heard good and not so good about predator. I do read reviews, alot. There's not alot of reviews on Carrol Stream, which is good, I guess. The big thing is, you can buy an extended warranty. The sad new is, the Carrol Stream 20h.p. is no longer available. They're not importing them, anymore. Carrol Stream is using the Honda motor for that. A 20 h.p. is about a 750 cc. Carrol Stream says they are going to try to stay competitive.
As far as advice on the predator? It depends. If I had to make a decision or the Baja Boss 200, I would say no. For a replacement motor for an old mini bike to get running again, I'd say yes with an extended warranty.
My original decision for the Baja Boss 200 was Honda. They're three times the cost. I've looked into other motors, But, if I'm doing 10 bikes at a time, Carrol stream is willing to work with me on the shipping. BTW, Carrol Stream 6.5 h.p. comes with an electric start, generator, and battery.
As far as advice on the predator? It depends. If I had to make a decision or the Baja Boss 200, I would say no. For a replacement motor for an old mini bike to get running again, I'd say yes with an extended warranty.
My original decision for the Baja Boss 200 was Honda. They're three times the cost. I've looked into other motors, But, if I'm doing 10 bikes at a time, Carrol stream is willing to work with me on the shipping. BTW, Carrol Stream 6.5 h.p. comes with an electric start, generator, and battery.
Can't argue with electric start and little alternator for $200. Too bad they don't run the shaft out the other side so you can have the output for clutch on left and head facing forward for cooling and more of a motorcycle look. Can't wait to see one fabbed up. Cheers!
My first pipe "manual" bending die was half a shive (approx 7/8 x 8") from a an old cable drag line. The die later migrated to a press and still gets used from time to time.Yes the sand trick and lots of lube works well to achieve closer to mandrel quality bends. Not sure this will give you any ideas for this project but may inspire you to watch future material in scrap being sent out. BAP
Dhazelton, that's great. The predators look like good engines. I'm reading more reviews and they sound good. I'm starting up on the bike next week. My daughter's birthday is this week and there's little money left. I ordered a new SDHC card for my camera. The old one was a class 4 and will not record sound. The new class 10 is 32 GB and will hold alot more photos and will record sound. I want to take videos of the bike.
In all probability, I would like to finish the bike by the end of July. In other words, the sprocket, chain, motor, brakes and throttle. About $400.00 give or take. Then comes the pain of the parts list. Every nut and bolt has to be blue printed and cataloged. Then a detailed cost of all the parts and the crate has to be designed. Still some work left to do.
In all probability, I would like to finish the bike by the end of July. In other words, the sprocket, chain, motor, brakes and throttle. About $400.00 give or take. Then comes the pain of the parts list. Every nut and bolt has to be blue printed and cataloged. Then a detailed cost of all the parts and the crate has to be designed. Still some work left to do.
So, I got a little extra time on my hands and couldn't think of a small project I could work on. Then it came to me. Something I've always wanted that can seriously save me time and money. Know what this is? The top isn't welded on yet.
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
I see a schraeder valve on top...
I'm guessing a power-oiler, or power bleeder.
I'm guessing a power-oiler, or power bleeder.
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
From the fitting on the end of the PEX, I'm guessing a power-greaser.
That's not it, either. Alot of new creative ideas. It's a brake bleeder pot. For many years, I've done brake jobs. My first was when I was thirteen. I've always had to have someone pump the brake peddle. I looked at every place for a bleeder pot and even an empty tank of any kind. McMaster Carr, Grainger, everywhere and the cheapest was around $150 for a small one. So I thought of a 6" pipe. Most places don't have remnants of 6" steel pipe. Cast, yes. Too heavy. Every place that did have 6" steel pipe, wanted me to buy 10' of it. So. I got some sheet metal, bent it around, welded it inside and out, made a top and bottom and then started to assemble.
Very astute, Alexa. I thought about that. Since the tank is sealed, there's no way to retrieve the valve stem. Or is there? If you notice, the filler plug is right next to the valve stem hole. If it does drop in the tank, I have a long 1/16" wire to wrap around the valve stem, bend it in a u-shape and feed it thru the hole and grab it with plyers. But, that's not one of the problems I'll have. When I go to weld the top on, that metal is gonna get hot! It might melt the rubber on the stem. What I'm gonna do, is get a small damp towel and place it over the valve stem. It should keep it cool enough while I weld. Also, I can cool it after after one or two passes.
I'm gonna try to make the reservoir lid today. Flat lid, same thickness as the top, 3/16", square, 3"x4" with slots, about 1/8" wide, cut in about 3/4" from the side. That's for the tightening chain. There's a fitting that I'll weld on the top where that brass inlet fitting and tube go. On the underside will be a rubber seal. If I finish the filler lid today, I'll post a photo. This is something that I've always wanted. I do alot of brake jobs. It's a great way to save money.
I forgot to mention. The top will also have a fitting for a pressure gauge. That's where most of the disagreements came in. Some say about 20 to 30 lbs. One guy at Haps said 100 lbs. Are you kidding? That would blow out the seals!
I'm have to assume that every car is different. I'm gonna start with 20lbs. and see how that works and go up from there. The fluid should stream out. Kinda like a water dispenser on a fridge.
Total cost for everything, less than 40 bucks.
Very astute, Alexa. I thought about that. Since the tank is sealed, there's no way to retrieve the valve stem. Or is there? If you notice, the filler plug is right next to the valve stem hole. If it does drop in the tank, I have a long 1/16" wire to wrap around the valve stem, bend it in a u-shape and feed it thru the hole and grab it with plyers. But, that's not one of the problems I'll have. When I go to weld the top on, that metal is gonna get hot! It might melt the rubber on the stem. What I'm gonna do, is get a small damp towel and place it over the valve stem. It should keep it cool enough while I weld. Also, I can cool it after after one or two passes.
I'm gonna try to make the reservoir lid today. Flat lid, same thickness as the top, 3/16", square, 3"x4" with slots, about 1/8" wide, cut in about 3/4" from the side. That's for the tightening chain. There's a fitting that I'll weld on the top where that brass inlet fitting and tube go. On the underside will be a rubber seal. If I finish the filler lid today, I'll post a photo. This is something that I've always wanted. I do alot of brake jobs. It's a great way to save money.
I forgot to mention. The top will also have a fitting for a pressure gauge. That's where most of the disagreements came in. Some say about 20 to 30 lbs. One guy at Haps said 100 lbs. Are you kidding? That would blow out the seals!
I'm have to assume that every car is different. I'm gonna start with 20lbs. and see how that works and go up from there. The fluid should stream out. Kinda like a water dispenser on a fridge.
Total cost for everything, less than 40 bucks.
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
If you're reverse-bleeding, from the caliper bleeder up, 10 PSI will be plenty. If you're "forward bleeding", from the reservior down, 5 PSI is more than enough.... I've done it on gravity (siphon) alone, on ABS, if the system wasn't compromised and I'm just changing calipers, or cylinders on drum brakes.
Forward bleeding is the better method for purging new calipers and flex-lines. Reverse is better for "upstream" components, like proportioning valves and master cylinders (in my experience).
I won't promise this is true for every system out there, but it's worked for me on the most common vehicles.
So I was pretty close with the "pressure-lubricator" thought...
Steve S
Forward bleeding is the better method for purging new calipers and flex-lines. Reverse is better for "upstream" components, like proportioning valves and master cylinders (in my experience).
I won't promise this is true for every system out there, but it's worked for me on the most common vehicles.
So I was pretty close with the "pressure-lubricator" thought...
Steve S
That seems like a bit of overkill, but hey, its a project.
I bought mine from Princess Auto in Canada for $30 when it went on sale.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Engi ... /8050832.p
I bought mine from Princess Auto in Canada for $30 when it went on sale.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Engi ... /8050832.p
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- brake bleeder.jpg (100.36 KiB) Viewed 2006 times
Hey, is this the new format? I like it. Anyway, It's done!
The seam looked horrible, so, I buffed it out and it looks a lot better. I pumped it up to about 40 psi and it held pretty good, no leaks at the seam. The filler adapter is another. Tomorrow, I will grind down the welds and re-weld where the pinholes are. Go figure, it's right where the rubber stem is. You know what I like best about this project? I had fun making it.
The seam looked horrible, so, I buffed it out and it looks a lot better. I pumped it up to about 40 psi and it held pretty good, no leaks at the seam. The filler adapter is another. Tomorrow, I will grind down the welds and re-weld where the pinholes are. Go figure, it's right where the rubber stem is. You know what I like best about this project? I had fun making it.
