Welding Tips and Tricks

Im a newbie. Just getting to the point where I can lay down a fairly decent looking bead, at least one that doesn't look like a caterpillar. I have heard that its best not to get stuff to hot and one way is not doing long continuous beads. I been trying to do short beads allowing material to cool some before continuing with next section of bead. I would like to be able to make the transition from the end of a bead to the beginning of the next a little smoother. Its VERY obvious where my beads start and end. Its very obvious my longer welds are a series of interconnected beads. Is there a method for making a smoother transition from the end of a bead to the beginning of the next so it looks a little more like a continuous bead rather than a series of connected beads?

Miller 211 set at 4.5/40 running on 220
Practicing on 1/8" x 1-1/2" sq tubing
using 70S-6 .30 wire and 75/25 gas.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome on!

You'll never completely conceal bead transitions, but one way to minimize them is to back-step in your progression. I'll try to explain it this way... consider a 12" weld (assuming everything is tacked up very firmly)... If you weld the right-most three inches in a left-to-right progression, you would then weld the next three inches left-to-right also, so your second weld stops on the start-point of your first weld. In this case, you would not hold at the end to fill the end crater, as you're on top of the previous start. This makes a smoother transition.

I hope this makes sense.

Steve S

Thanks for your reply Otto. What you suggest makes since. I will work on your suggested technique.

Otto Nobedder wrote:Welcome on!

You'll never completely conceal bead transitions, but one way to minimize them is to back-step in your progression. I'll try to explain it this way... consider a 12" weld (assuming everything is tacked up very firmly)... If you weld the right-most three inches in a left-to-right progression, you would then weld the next three inches left-to-right also, so your second weld stops on the start-point of your first weld. In this case, you would not hold at the end to fill the end crater, as you're on top of the previous start. This makes a smoother transition.

I hope this makes sense.

Steve S

I use that exact method whenever it is possible, and when I get to where the welds meet, I like to make a small whip motion right before I let off the trigger. It makes them blend together nicely and reduces the bulb shape at the end of the second weld. I don't know what effect it has on the structural integrity of the weld but I have not had any problems with this method.
Maybe look for videos of tubing being welded. Those welds are usually tied in together.