Welding Tips and Tricks

I have an Eastwood 175. I can't get it to weld 1/10 inch mild steel exhaust tubing even at the highest amperage. I have it hooked up to my dryer electrical outlet. 75/25 gas.

HeavyPettingZoo wrote:I have an Eastwood 175. I can't get it to weld 1/10 inch mild steel exhaust tubing even at the highest amperage. I have it hooked up to my dryer electrical outlet. 75/25 gas.

PICS?

I haven't got a clue as to what "I can't get it to weld" means.
Welcome to the forum btw.
~John

It means no penetration and lack of fusion...

I know this is obvious, but have you verified correct polarity on your machine?

I tried flux core, hated it. Then somebody here pointed out the need to switch polarity. The difference was remarkable. Until then I had never heard the need to switch polarity.

^^ What Bill says. Solid wire MIG is *typically* DC EP (electrode positive) while Flux Core is *typically* DC EN (electrode negative). To the OP, the electrode positive or negative is the polarity. Check the specs for the wire you're using, then change the machine's polarity to match. How to do that varies by machine: sometimes you jack the leads into the appropriate port, other machines require you to change buss bars or other internals inside the machine.

Using solid core .023
Black wire is connected to the black - terminal. Red wire is connected to the red + terminal.
I think I have it correct.

HeavyPettingZoo wrote:Using solid core .023
Black wire is connected to the black - terminal. Red wire is connected to the red + terminal.
I think I have it correct.

It's not a color-matching thing.

If the red wire is on your ground clamp and the black wire is on your wire feed, then you're probably DCEN, and have it right for solid wire with gas.

If the black wire is on your ground clamp, and the red wire to your wire feeder, then you're DCEP which is right for most flux-cored wires without sheilding gas.

Steve S

Otto Nobedder wrote:

HeavyPettingZoo wrote:Using solid core .023
Black wire is connected to the black - terminal. Red wire is connected to the red + terminal.
I think I have it correct.

It's not a color-matching thing.

If the red wire is on your ground clamp and the black wire is on your wire feed, then you're probably DCEN, and have it right for solid wire with gas.

If the black wire is on your ground clamp, and the red wire to your wire feeder, then you're DCEP which is right for most flux-cored wires without sheilding gas.

Steve S

Steve,
Your mixed up.

Solid wire and gas is DCEP.
Self shielded flux core is DCEN.

So I'm now using .030 solid wire. Black clamp wire on negative terminal. Red wire feed on positive terminal

If I were somehow only getting 110v instead of 220v that might be giving me the problems I'm having?

HeavyPettingZoo wrote:So I'm now using .030 solid wire. Black clamp wire on negative terminal. Red wire feed on positive terminal

If I were somehow only getting 110v instead of 220v that might be giving me the problems I'm having?

That would definitely limit your output substantially if the machine runs at all. Wouldn't be good for it.

xwrench wrote:

HeavyPettingZoo wrote:So I'm now using .030 solid wire. Black clamp wire on negative terminal. Red wire feed on positive terminal

If I were somehow only getting 110v instead of 220v that might be giving me the problems I'm having?

That would definitely limit your output substantially if the machine runs at all. Wouldn't be good for it.

I'm calling an electrician and having a 220 volt 50 amp outlet put in my garage. I was going to do it eventually anyway. No more running a line from my laundry room. Wife will be happier this way too.

Here's a link to your manual:
http://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/12012Q_MIG175.pdf

Page 6 discusses polarity, and how to switch it- figures c, d, and e.

Cool that you're getting 50 amp service! The 175 only *requires* 30 amp input, but a 50 amp circuit will allow you some growth later, if you like. More power, Scotty!

If you are using 100% argon, you won't get much for penetration. Double check you have the right gas.

Well figured out the problem.
This thingy no workey.

That'll do it.

Well after a two weeks a new drive motor and now a new gas solenoid my NEW welder is...STILL not working. I'm still waiting on the electrician to get the right voltage/amperage outlet installed in my garage.
In the meantime I've wasted an entire tank of gas trying to figure out what the problem is. YAY!
Good times!

Well I sold the Eastwood 175 and bought a Miller 211.
WOW
What a difference! SO MUCH BETTER!
I mean in that it worked right out of the box and the Eastwood did not...

HeavyPettingZoo wrote:Well I sold the Eastwood 175 and bought a Miller 211.
WOW
What a difference! SO MUCH BETTER!
I mean in that it worked right out of the box and the Eastwood did not...

Funny how that works....

HeavyPettingZoo wrote:Well I sold the Eastwood 175 and bought a Miller 211.
WOW
What a difference! SO MUCH BETTER!
I mean in that it worked right out of the box and the Eastwood did not...

I had a Lincoln 175, sold it and bought a miller 211 also. This machine is the nuts!!!!