Welding Tips and Tricks

I'm new to welding. I have a Lincoln HD140. I've decided to do a little practicing on scrap metal before I get to the project I'm working on. When I strike the arc, I know which way I'm supposed to go with the puddle, but I can't see the joint. This definitley presents a problem as I've caught myself going completely off onto either the top piece or the bottom piece. Can anybody tell me how I can see what I'm welding. I do wear glasses, but I'm not blind. I tried doing it in the sun, but I couldn't see anything. I have one of the auto darkening helmets from Harbor Freight. It seems to work well, but I just can't see. Help!

Do you have adjustable lense in helmet?

backhoe wrote:Do you have adjustable lense in helmet?

Yes, it has a knob on the left size that has "Grinding" then the numbers 6 10 ... on it. So I assume that is the adjustable. I put it on grinding and I could see, but it was a bit too bright. Soon as I moved it to the first number, 6, soon as I struck the arc couldn't see anything but the puddle and the arc.

I had the exact same problem. I had a cheap helmet from some surplus store that cost about $15. Couldn't see squat so I learned to weld by feel rather than sight. To this day I still don't where gloves when I weld, but I always had the problem of running over the spot or straying off the line, or just plain missing the area to be welded completely. I would position my stick or mig gun in the exact right spot, pull down the crappy helmet,then pull the trigger and hope I was going the right way. Needless to say I went through a lot of grinder pads back then!

That all changed the day I plunked down about $280 for a Miller Elite auto darkening helmet. I could finally see what I was doing. It made a huge difference in how everything looked especially on butt joint welds. It's a lot easier to do them when you can see them! Corner welds I'll still mostly do by "feel" but even they improved.

Although I've never used the Harbor Freight helmet, that may be where your problem lies.

yup, they're junk. I have a mid-range helmet (forget brand, pops bought it for me for my birthday, I'll look at it tomorrow at work) that's pretty good. 2-sensor, 9-12 shades, 20-200ms delay, '20-200A' sensitivity. unfortunately, there's no grinding mode, but that's about the only downside. inside coverplate is the same as a jackson, so it might be by the same manufacturer. big bonus is that it uses AAA batteries.

"soon as I struck the arc couldn't see anything but the puddle and the arc." if you can see that, though, you can make do for a while. save up some cash and buy a jackson or similar. $150 range. I see the $200+ helmets as luxury and the under $100 range as a liability, personally. if I welded for a living (as opposed to part of my job) I'd be looking at a fancier hat.

What is your joint prep? If you have two pieces tightly butted up, you'll never see the joint over the arc. If you have a bevel and/or a gap, then you should expect the weld path to be visible. The weld path, under the best of conditions, may still be difficult to see depending on the material, ambient light (sun glare), back light (reflection inside your hood), and the angle of view.

I've been welding for nearly 30 years, and have never owned an "auto-hood". I have used them occasionally. If you wish to rule out your hood, a basic Jackson flip-down fixed-lens hood can be had for under $30. They usually come with a #10 lens, which is fine outside in sunlight. If you're not half-blind like me and are working inside, I'd go #11.

Steve

ogorir wrote:yup, they're junk. I have a mid-range helmet (forget brand, pops bought it for me for my birthday, I'll look at it tomorrow at work) that's pretty good. 2-sensor, 9-12 shades, 20-200ms delay, '20-200A' sensitivity. unfortunately, there's no grinding mode, but that's about the only downside. inside coverplate is the same as a jackson, so it might be by the same manufacturer. big bonus is that it uses AAA batteries.

"soon as I struck the arc couldn't see anything but the puddle and the arc." if you can see that, though, you can make do for a while. save up some cash and buy a jackson or similar. $150 range. I see the $200+ helmets as luxury and the under $100 range as a liability, personally. if I welded for a living (as opposed to part of my job) I'd be looking at a fancier hat.

You're right, the Elite is a luxury. I think I've adjusted the dials maybe 3 times in the last 8 years and could have gotten by with a much less expensive helmet, but it's nice to have a full range of options,90% of which I'll probably never use. What is life without a few luxuries?

I won't start plugging Jackson but everyone with Miller elite, digital elite, speedglass, old school blue lens pipeliners, whatever all say damn when they try out my Boss auto hood. I didn't use the torch and grind functions, but it came in handy the other day with the torch when i left my shades at home. I had the Jackson fixed shade before the Boss and love it too. IMO everyone should learn to use a fixed shade hood before gettitng an auto. Oh, and I thought auto hoods sucked at first because I was given one of those cheap harbor freight hoods. They really do suck.

By using lenses in your welding helmet, you can see.

I've been welding 47yrs, at first I didn't trust those auto hoods, now I can't do with out....I got an HTP..weld/ grind. A bit on the pricey side ,but very light & flexable......do your self a favor don't go cheap. R/R...

Got one of those HTP auto-darkening helmets also. Works great!

I too am new to MIG welding and need some help with a similar problem. I have an auto darkening helmet from Eastwood , $80, so its not real cheap. It works OK but I can't get it light enough to see where I am welding even with the control set a 9. I can see the arc but not the work. Do I need a better helmet or are ther adjustment I have missed. Any help would be appreciated.

try taking your chalk and run down the joint it can help with seeing a flat butt joint

You may need a stronger prescription for your glasses. I've only been welding for 4 years and my eyesight is already getting worse.

when you cant see shit:

1.Check your inner and outer cover lenses/plates
-most of the time I can see after I change my cover plate and if you do any kind of heavy welding at all you will roll through cover plates trying maintain decent visibility.

2.Check your work area
-light behind your hood can make it impossible to see.

3.Check your workpiece
-It is easier to see t joints and groove joints because the light coming off your arc has something to reflect off of. Many a lead has left my hand followed by a whole mess of blasphemies and swears when I didn't or wasn't allowed to take the time to groove out my butt welds and cap passes.

4. If all else fails it might be time to upgrade your portholes.

get a shade 9 pipeliner lens and a pancake hood. 160$ for the set and you'll never get any sunglare coming in the back of your hood. and if u cant see what you're welding with a shad 9 then you shouldnt be welding imo.

BurninRod wrote:get a shade 9 pipeliner lens and a pancake hood. 160$ for the set and you'll never get any sunglare coming in the back of your hood. and if u cant see what you're welding with a shad 9 then you shouldnt be welding imo.

A shade 9 lens is fine for lighter welding but is only gonna make matters worse if you get into anything remotely hot regularly.

If you can't see with a shade 9 go get your eyes checked, try a different color lens, or try throwing some bright ass work lights to your work piece just don't get discouraged and give up.

I use a Miller Digital Elite hood on my job and I had the same problem. I also wear corrective lenses. My problem seeing the joints was fixed when I got a new prescription for my glasses. Another thing that has helped is to either clean the cover lens or replace it regularly. Good luck.

Ted

I mostly weld in my garage and the lighting is horrible. I had trouble seeing the joints with all 3 of my hoods (Miller Perf, ESAB Globe Arc, Jackson HSL100 /w phillips gold lens). I went out and got a 400W halogen flood light and the first time I used it, I thought my miller wasn't working. Not only could I see the joint clearly but I could see the grain in the steel with the hood darkened. Only problem with it is it will trigger the hood before the arc is struck. Kind of annoying but as long as I have the light positioned correctly, I don't really need it to be in it's light state.

Hey,

You Should be able to adjust the sensitivity of the helmet so the outside light wont activate it. Less sensitive will hopefully make it only work for the really bright arc.

Mick

Gave up on trying to adjust it out. The halogen is just too hot of a light. I've considered finding an LED lamp that's powerful enough but they ain't cheap.

Hey,

We use a light that looks like an old round car head light,They have a black plastic case around them, with a magnet and a handle. They are a low voltage light. Will try and find a picture .

Mick

Hey,

This is sort of it. Nice and bright but doesnt affect the welding lense.

http://www.warningsystems.com.au/_images/400-0006.jpg

Mick

Sweet. I'll try and incorporate something like that when I build my table. My current "shop" is less than...um...ideal

Cool as,

We have a strong magnet attached to that base so you can stick it where ever you want. Dont forget to post about your "shop" project. For ideas as well as encouragement.

Mick