Welding Tips and Tricks

On a lincoln page re: AWS classification numbers, I find that the flux cored wire that I would like to use has a limiter to the positions that you can't run it Vertical Up. I wonder why?

I am attaching a pre-fabbed front suspension onto my 70 Ranchero which is a uni-body made using galvanized material in the front frame tube area. I was going to use a E71T-14 as it is listed as compatible with coated and galv steel, soft arc for my thinner tube walls and all position as I need to connect all sides, top, bottom, obviously.

But... on this page, the -14 lists all position except VU...?

http://m.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/supp ... ators.aspx

My front susp is 1/8 wall tube, and the car is galv looking to be .100 or so. I'm thinking VD would be way too cold especially with a soft arc listed on the characteristics. Im looking to short circuit application and doing some cleaning of the joint area. -11 designation lists spray transfer and for the overhead portions I think it wouldn't work as well as short circuit.

This is kindof a one-shot deal and i have very little of the galv car material to practice on for set-up and technique so I'd like to get in the ballpark on my first time up to the plate.

And trying to find the E71T-14 wire makes me think its a rare bird to begin with...

Welcome to the forum.

Hobart has a 71t-14 that is rated for vertical. Fabshield 23
http://www.hobartbrothers.com/uploads/p ... ield23.pdf

What experience level do you have with other wires?

MnDave, thanks for the info. I spent my breaks looking and never came across that particular wire.

I have made a few implements with a normal e70? wire, 75/25 gas, usally something managable in size that I can roll over to help my welding position. Never looked at specs or dug into what would be correct for my project, just burned whatever was in my machine. I made a few t iron window frames for a plant intown and used a flux core wire for the cleanliness of the final product as it was being ground smooth and sent to the paintshop. We use a lot of 7018 at work, d-rings and cracked whatever as the place is dirty everywhere. My employer made us get a cert before our payscale reached "standard" and i passed my 1" overhead 7018 on the first try. My vert on the second. But... I am by no means a professional or tradesman, just feel I am able to conquer my little obstacles with education and practice. So... i rely on guys like you who are tackling those obstacles everyday for the education part.

This project had so many things limiting my choices i started to look at better techniques and materials. Generally, I think I've gotten pretty good by the end of my project and then don't have a reason to pick up the torch until the next wild hare runs thru my head.

The lincoln brand wire comes in a .030 size as the Hobart goes to .035 but i wonder why the lincoln would limit the position to VD only? Could it be puddle fluidity? Could i overcome that with technique? Again, i dont have much car scraps to practice on. Only the chuncks i have removed for suspension clearance.

Just pickin' your collective brains before i start for real.

Thanks Again!

Rob

I started poking around a little and noticed that Lincoln does have an E71t-14 wire NR-152, that is listed as all position.

In the linked article the last paragraph indicates that there have been some changes made to the usability designations:

As a final point, note that there is a new filler metal specification, AWS A5.36/A5.36M:2012, “Specification for Carbon and Low-Alloy Steel Flux Cored Electrodes for Flux Cored Arc Welding and Metal Cored Electrodes for Gas Metal Arc Welding". It covers both carbon steel and low alloy flux-cored electrodes, as well as carbon steel and low alloy metal cored electrodes. It is the first of a new and improved style of filler metal specifications. It is effective now and runs in conjunction with AWS A5.20 and A5.29 until 2015. At that point the old specifications will be obsolete and the new A5.36 specification will be the only one in effect. While the usability designations are similar to those in A5.20 and A5.29, it does include a few slight changes and some additional ones involving metal cored wires. However, discussion of this new A5.36 specification is for a future column

So maybe that is why there is a difference in their position recommendations at this point.

I've used NR-152 and in my opinion it is only good for thin sheet metal. Very very soft arc, very little build up.
For what you are doing a 0.035 NR-211 would work just fine. All position, any direction, even left handed with a mirror, and it welds better over zinc than on clean bare steel.

Rudy Ray wrote: For what you are doing a 0.035 NR-211 would work just fine. All position, any direction, even left handed with a mirror, and it welds better over zinc than on clean bare steel.

I tend to agree, E71T-11 (NR-211) works very well and is available nearly everywhere.

PeteM thanks for working for me, im going to run that by my supplier tomorrow. I hate wasting their time for such a small customer, i used to be self employed and it seemed time was the material i could never find enough of.

Rudy, I was in tractor supply tday and bought a 2# spool of just that, Hobart i think. Looked well stocked and am going to try it this weekend for the feel. How could you tell I was a southpaw...? Must be my typing skills... or in a mirror that would be slliks gnipyt.

So... you said "welding over zinc"... do you attempt to clean, grind or sand the immediate joint area beforhand or can you just go over it? I was going to mark the meeting points and travel along with a stone in my die grinder till i see a couple sparks n then move down the line a bit, repeat... The pieces I've cut off look like random zinc fishscales on the interior surface that was never exposed to the weather etc since 1970 but, not a real heavy coating.

MnDave I'm originally from Winona area, Witoka ridge.

Thanks again for y'alls help. If you ever get close to Lanse in the U.P. I'd be happy to buy u a beer... or 4...

I use only Lincoln E717-11 - .035 and works good any position. 1/8in should be no problem with a bit of practice. To make it easier and much cleaned give the area a dampening with anti-spatter spray. Does anyone have an opinion on the same spec. wire in Hobart? I am just curious as I have always used Lincoln and am quite happy and Hobart is about $20 more per 10# roll. Is it worth it or just personal preference?

Over Zinc, galvanized metal.

Brush all loose stuffs off with a wire wheel or hand brush and weld away. I use it when I have to weld up jobs that are hot dip galvanized, like solar farms or rebuilding remote sewage treatment plant digester tanks. Just remove any paint, scale, or grease.

avoid the fumes, if you get a headache or nauseous, drink milk and you'll be right as rain in 10 minutes.

homeboy wrote:I use only Lincoln E717-11 - .035 and works good any position. 1/8in should be no problem with a bit of practice. To make it easier and much cleaned give the area a dampening with anti-spatter spray. Does anyone have an opinion on the same spec. wire in Hobart? I am just curious as I have always used Lincoln and am quite happy and Hobart is about $20 more per 10# roll. Is it worth it or just personal preference?

I think it's a good question, I've been using Washington Alloy at $50 per 11 lb spool.
Works good so I would switch only if I could find cheaper alternative. But that's really as cheap as I've found so far.