my 200A MIGs have only 1 driven roller. The other roller is not geared, so strictly idler.JayWal wrote:Yours aren't single roller, are they? 1 powered roller on top of 1 idler roller? My little Millermatic 175 is like that and it doesn't feed well at all.
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Using the knurled roller for solid wire will increase drag compared to a smooth surface. That knurling that gets transferred over definitely isn't good IMO. I recommend the proper V-notch drive roller for solid wire.Deano56 wrote:Better pic
I found the .030 v-groove roller, going to order some spares. Not sure why the pictures need to be clicked on to open them to full size. HummOscar wrote:Using the knurled roller for solid wire will increase drag compared to a smooth surface. That knurling that gets transferred over definitely isn't good IMO. I recommend the proper V-notch drive roller for solid wire.Deano56 wrote:Better pic
That's just how this forum is setup for pictures. I don't like how it is setup and wastes a lot of space on the screen, but oh well.Deano56 wrote:Not sure why the pictures need to be clicked on to open them to full size. Humm
is this too good to be true? https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/tls/ ... 98596.html
I'm trying to decide on making one for a new steel storage rack that I'm making in the garage, but I don't even have enough space to put the camera or I'll knock it over, lol. See in order to save space with that new rack, I had to move everything around so it's all cluttered, lol. Let me get back in there and try to get some footage.Deano56 wrote:ok, put the .030" v-groove roller in and feeds just fine with the curl up test. s there any video's of you people on here welding up some projects?
Too good to be true. The first time I saw that ad, I just about tore up everything trying to respond.Deano56 wrote:is this too good to be true? https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/tls/ ... 98596.html
He says mig, looks like stick? I'd buy it for a back up generator for that price, might be Onan poweredA.L. wrote:Too good to be true. The first time I saw that ad, I just about tore up everything trying to respond.Deano56 wrote:is this too good to be true? https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/tls/ ... 98596.html
on my day off yesterday I went out to a small welding supply store that I didn't even know existed about 20 miles west of me in Ottawa, Illinois. Their house is next door to the store so, not far for the lady to run out the side door over to see who was there 
, anyways it was nice to see a fair amount of welding supplies in there and the prices were very fair, even the bottle exchange was less expensive than Praxair and Airgas. Now that I have a bottle that at least says 75/25 argon I will play around with some welding again, I did weld up my power step on our motorhome last Saturday even some overhead which I am going to go over again with the correct shielding gas, I'm hoping this is one of the issues with the quality of my welding besides my experience or rather lack of. I'm hoping the machine shop has my mig torch end turned down so I can try out my 15' er. 
, anyways it was nice to see a fair amount of welding supplies in there and the prices were very fair, even the bottle exchange was less expensive than Praxair and Airgas. Now that I have a bottle that at least says 75/25 argon I will play around with some welding again, I did weld up my power step on our motorhome last Saturday even some overhead which I am going to go over again with the correct shielding gas, I'm hoping this is one of the issues with the quality of my welding besides my experience or rather lack of. I'm hoping the machine shop has my mig torch end turned down so I can try out my 15' er. BugHunter wrote:The cost of many of these higher priced welders isn't in the feature set as much as it is in the duty cycle. That's typically what you're buying, usually along with a few additional bells and whistles. It really comes down to what machine fits your needs without running you broke.Deano56 wrote:Fronius is expensive for a 210 amp welder at 2K. Must be a long lasting machine. I guess that's what it takes to buy quality
For instance, I was looking for a TIG welder some years back. A $1300 welder (Lincoln Square Wave) would have realistically done all the things I needed from a TIG welder all except... :drum roll: on occasion I'll have times where a job needs done and it needs a welder with 100% duty cycle so welds are non-stop. POW! Add $5000... Now, I still bought a 210A welder, but it's rated at 100% at 175A. How many times have I truly needed that in the past 4 years? 3 or 4... But, at those times, time is money and there was no time to wait around on a hot welder. A very different thing than a guy in his garage welding on the side or even a business where they don't do production work.
Do I like the welder I got? Sure. Did I spend extra for some extra toys? Yes. Would a guy in his basement be well served with what I got? Absolutely not. can you link me the thread about your mig?
I have a similar thread here about getting a MIG. In my case, I DO NOT need the additional duty cycle or amperage, so spending up does not make sense in this case FOR ME.
Get the one that does what you need and not a whole lot more or it can get expensive.
can you link me the thread about your mig?BugHunter wrote:The cost of many of these higher priced welders isn't in the feature set as much as it is in the duty cycle. That's typically what you're buying, usually along with a few additional bells and whistles. It really comes down to what machine fits your needs without running you broke.Deano56 wrote:Fronius is expensive for a 210 amp welder at 2K. Must be a long lasting machine. I guess that's what it takes to buy quality
For instance, I was looking for a TIG welder some years back. A $1300 welder (Lincoln Square Wave) would have realistically done all the things I needed from a TIG welder all except... :drum roll: on occasion I'll have times where a job needs done and it needs a welder with 100% duty cycle so welds are non-stop. POW! Add $5000... Now, I still bought a 210A welder, but it's rated at 100% at 175A. How many times have I truly needed that in the past 4 years? 3 or 4... But, at those times, time is money and there was no time to wait around on a hot welder. A very different thing than a guy in his garage welding on the side or even a business where they don't do production work.
Do I like the welder I got? Sure. Did I spend extra for some extra toys? Yes. Would a guy in his basement be well served with what I got? Absolutely not.
I have a similar thread here about getting a MIG. In my case, I DO NOT need the additional duty cycle or amperage, so spending up does not make sense in this case FOR ME.
Get the one that does what you need and not a whole lot more or it can get expensive.
I'ts at the top now but it's not about MY mig, at least not yet. I tried out BillEDee's HTP when he was nice enough to bring it here to my shop. The welder I was using as the example in that post was my TIG, which is not what you're looking for (nor I). But the cost per features ratio still applies. Beyond that, there's really not much about a tig that applies to your questions about a mig, nor a mig gun.Deano56 wrote:can you link me the thread about your mig?
In my opinion, the longer mig torch lines are great if you intend to have them reasonably straight when in use. But if they're going to be coiled up and all bent in rings when working close to the power source, you'd be better served with 2 torches and use the shorter one most of the time. Put the longer one on when needed. Pushing wire through twists and turns is simply more difficult. It's just basic physics, there's more friction in a turn.
Yup, which is why I turned to ultra-low-drag carbon graphite liners for my custom made 6-meter MIG guns. AFAIK, they have the least resistance of any liner, followed by Teflon, and then by regular steel liners coming in 3rd place.. I was pleasantly surprised that my standard drive motor/rollers on my 200A MIGs drove 030 wire down an 18ft Teflon liner with out needing any additional drive roll pressure, and without having the liner perfectly straight. In fact, I purposely gave it some curvature here and there to simulate a realistic scenario. So I have 100% confidence the carbon-graphite liner will be even an even better implementation. Only bad part is it costs so much more than a steel or Teflon liner for a given length.BugHunter wrote:Pushing wire through twists and turns is simply more difficult. It's just basic physics, there's more friction in a turn.
I would say yours would be the bees knees for someone who works up on scaffold or something like that. For most of us, a welder on a cart with wheels and an extension cord, would work fine with a short mig torch. I have a 75' extension I can use with any of my welders. Then too, I have a forklift I can pick the welder up with if I needed to be up high, though I have yet to need that.Oscar wrote:Yup, which is why I turned to ultra-low-drag carbon graphite liners for my custom made 6-meter MIG guns. AFAIK, they have the least resistance of any liner, followed by Teflon, and then by regular steel liners coming in 3rd place.. I was pleasantly surprised that my standard drive motor/rollers on my 200A MIGs drove 030 wire down an 18ft Teflon liner with out needing any additional drive roll pressure, and without having the liner perfectly straight. In fact, I purposely gave it some curvature here and there to simulate a realistic scenario. So I have 100% confidence the carbon-graphite liner will be even an even better implementation. Only bad part is it costs so much more than a steel or Teflon liner for a given length.
laying under our motorhome fitting up the exhaust from headers back, the 15' gun will be nice not having to move the welding cart as much, 5' extra is a lotBugHunter wrote:I would say yours would be the bees knees for someone who works up on scaffold or something like that. For most of us, a welder on a cart with wheels and an extension cord, would work fine with a short mig torch. I have a 75' extension I can use with any of my welders. Then too, I have a forklift I can pick the welder up with if I needed to be up high, though I have yet to need that.Oscar wrote:Yup, which is why I turned to ultra-low-drag carbon graphite liners for my custom made 6-meter MIG guns. AFAIK, they have the least resistance of any liner, followed by Teflon, and then by regular steel liners coming in 3rd place.. I was pleasantly surprised that my standard drive motor/rollers on my 200A MIGs drove 030 wire down an 18ft Teflon liner with out needing any additional drive roll pressure, and without having the liner perfectly straight. In fact, I purposely gave it some curvature here and there to simulate a realistic scenario. So I have 100% confidence the carbon-graphite liner will be even an even better implementation. Only bad part is it costs so much more than a steel or Teflon liner for a given length.
changed out the bottle, I must have had something other than 75/25 probably straight Argon. The welds look much more like I think they should as far as not all humped up. I also like the bigger longer torch lead, just feels more comfortable in my hand I guess and, didn't seem that the feeder was laboring any different than with the 10' torch.
some pictures, looks like a lot of brown soot for some reason. I think I was running about 22 volts and around 400 inches per minute and 1/4" plate
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did a little checking on this welding machine to see if the manufacturer was honest on their specs. It claims 200 amps on 220 volts, with a clamp on meter I was between 186 and 200 amps full out on voltage and wire speed. Specs say 26 volts on 220, I was between 25 and 27 volts maxed out. The last thing I want to check is the wire speed, spec say 26 meters per minute which is 629 inches which seems like a lot for this little machine but, who knows it might be correct. 
what kind of camera could I use to record my welding? I thought I could up load it here for better help from the prosOscar wrote:Excess soot can be from a variety of reason that we can't see: nozzle diameter at the orifice, gas flowrate, mig gun angle, too long stickout, unclean surface/prep work.
Put a #9 lens in front of your cellphone and tape it securely to it. Set up the phone no closer than 18" from the weld area to avoid getting spatter on it. Then record and upload to YouTube.Deano56 wrote:what kind of camera could I use to record my welding? I thought I could up load it here for better help from the prosOscar wrote:Excess soot can be from a variety of reason that we can't see: nozzle diameter at the orifice, gas flowrate, mig gun angle, too long stickout, unclean surface/prep work.
Bitchute for the win! Stop using yt.Oscar wrote:Put a #9 lens in front of your cellphone and tape it securely to it. Set up the phone no closer than 18" from the weld area to avoid getting spatter on it. Then record and upload to XXXYouXXXTubeXXX
