mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
Sacman
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Jan 05, 2017 9:05 pm
  • Location:
    East Meadow, New York

Here is my machine that I'm using. According the website they made several different models "weld pak 100" hd and plus. They all seem to be the same,just wondering is all. Thanks guys for all your useful help and knowledge it's appreciated. Image


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
cherwolf
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Oct 30, 2014 11:13 am
  • Location:
    Latvia

sacman, set voltage to B. Then take a gun in one hand, another hand shall grab the wire speed control knob. Grab piece of scrap metal, thick one preferred. Begin to weld one handed and adjust your wire speed with another hand. If it is too slow you gonna see slow large droplets of metal falling, if too fast, your wire will stuck in the puddle and spark a lot as an arc can not melt it so fast. Find those two extreme points, too slow and too fast and turn your wire speed knob in the middle between those two - that`s your welding current. Nice buzzing low spatter euphoria. If you need more energy, move to C and repeat the story.

Ooops, flux core, but, should work. Just drag not pull your welds. And move your gun in C pattern.
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:41 am
  • Location:
    Laredo, Tx

Get a better helmet. I don't think you can see the puddle, or the "line" that you're supposed to be following from the weld joint.
Image
Sacman
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Jan 05, 2017 9:05 pm
  • Location:
    East Meadow, New York

cherwolf wrote:sacman, set voltage to B. Then take a gun in one hand, another hand shall grab the wire speed control knob. Grab piece of scrap metal, thick one preferred. Begin to weld one handed and adjust your wire speed with another hand. If it is too slow you gonna see slow large droplets of metal falling, if too fast, your wire will stuck in the puddle and spark a lot as an arc can not melt it so fast. Find those two extreme points, too slow and too fast and turn your wire speed knob in the middle between those two - that`s your welding current. Nice buzzing low spatter euphoria. If you need more energy, move to C and repeat the story.

Ooops, flux core, but, should work. Just drag not pull your welds. And move your gun in C pattern.

10-4 will do, thanks for the advice.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sacman
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Jan 05, 2017 9:05 pm
  • Location:
    East Meadow, New York

Oscar wrote:Get a better helmet. I don't think you can see the puddle, or the "line" that you're supposed to be following from the weld joint.
yeah I brought a new auto dimming helmet and was messing settings in the beginning of the night those pics where taken. Thanks for the friendly advice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
  • Location:
    Near New Orleans

I stand corrected. I pulled out the manual for the Millermatic 252 today, and looked at the volt/amp curves, and OCV does not match setpoint voltage below about 50A, or basically while not welding.

Our ancient Lincoln CV305 transformer machine does seem to match OCV to the setpoint whether it's loaded or not.

My bad...

Steve S
Sacman
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Jan 05, 2017 9:05 pm
  • Location:
    East Meadow, New York

Otto Nobedder wrote:I stand corrected. I pulled out the manual for the Millermatic 252 today, and looked at the volt/amp curves, and OCV does not match setpoint voltage below about 50A, or basically while not welding.

Our ancient Lincoln CV305 transformer machine does seem to match OCV to the setpoint whether it's loaded or not.

My bad...

Steve S
Ok so your saying my machine is a transformer machine? I haven't had a chance to use the volt meter while welding yet. Should I still? Sounds like I don't. lol I think. I read the manual I don't remember seeing anything specific like that in there. I have a lot to learn, thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post Reply