[Otto Nobedder]

Yeah I normally don't have a leg to stand on

Are you saying you're at a disadvantage at the proverbial "butt-kicking contest"?

Steve S

[Otto Nobedder]

Yeah I normally don't have a leg to stand on

If you were a woman, we'd call you "Eileen"?

Did you apply at IHOP?

Okay, done now, at least for the moment...

Thank God you have such a great sense of humor, and I apologize for overextending mine...

Steve S

[Braehill]

Actually he was fresh out of intensive care when his friend brought him an application from IHOP. And if he was a Chinese female he would be Irene.

Len


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Welding Bear]

Haha! You guys are awesome!

After i made my workbench (some time in Jan) i'm going to make a bench vice as per chuckE's vid. As my welder will only fully penetrate 2.5mm realistically, am i ok to use 3mm? i wont be bashing stuff out on it. just need it to hold some auto work pieces and the like

[weldin mike 27]

You can make anything out of anything, as long as you are prepared for any limitations. A trick you can use use is to put two bits of 3mm together, sandwich style. This gives abit of rigidity.

I have a bench vice on the go, heavy duty, I plan to make it my new years resolution to finish my unfinished projects, and I will bung up some photos.

[Welding Bear]

Thats actually a really good point. sandwich them together and weld them up.... 6mm instantly

yeah will look forward to seeing them mate

chuckE said there was some dodgy gold looking coating on the bolts he used that when welded give off toxic fumes. is this on all nuts/bolts?

[Welding Bear]

***sorry meant nuts not bolts

[weldin mike 27]

I've seen the video you refer to, you'd be forgiven for thinking that chuck ee has Uranium nuts (HaHa) in that vid by the way he carried on. Yeah its not great for you but highly toxic?? I wouldn't go that far. If you are worried, weld outside and wear a respirator designed for welding.

[Welding Bear]

Awesome, cheers for the info mate!

[weldin mike 27]

And to actually answer your question. No. Zinc plating is common (shiny silver) zinc phosphating (gold) is common to and heavy duty structural bolts, can have heavy zinc coating from hot dipping. These are not great for you but in small amounts found in welding a nut on a bolt, the risk is low.

[weldin mike 27]

Anywhere that sells these bolts should sell black or untreated bolts (more common in higher tensile bolts)

[weldin mike 27]

That respirator filter goes on a 3M silicone half face respirator but single use/ disposable ones for welding are available.

[Welding Bear]

Thanks WM.

i have a bunch of shiny silver (zinc plated) bolts that ill use.

[weldin mike 27]

No probs.

[Welding Bear]

Cheers mate.

Ps, re penetration... (lol)..... would you be concerned that i still cant get the penetration to look like a weld on the back side? its kinda not concerning me cos im thinking 3mm is on the limit (from what ive experienced and read) of the 135te.

i do get a really really nice blister on the back. and my welds dont look cold (at the sides they lok to be fusing in). so im thinking theyre good but obviously want to get them as tough as poss.

obviously on a butt weld i can just do a bead on the back side and everyons happy. but that wont aways be possible.

sorry if repeating old ground.

[jwright650]

Thats actually a really good point. sandwich them together and weld them up.... 6mm instantly

yeah will look forward to seeing them mate

chuckE said there was some dodgy gold looking coating on the bolts he used that when welded give off toxic fumes. is this on all nuts/bolts?

The others mentioned the zinc coating...but then you also have cadium coatings on fasteners. Just keep your head out of the plume and have some ventilation. 3M makes a disposable respirator that fits under the shield pretty nicely.

3M #8514
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 33535&rt=d

I used to provide these for my guys who were welding on hot dipped galvanized parts in the shop. It really helps.

[Otto Nobedder]

Listen to John.

The gold-colored coating often includes Cadmium, and you should prefer not to breathe it.

A NIOSH N-95 "dust mask", or a respirator with P-100 cartridges are adequate, if they fit you properly.

Steve S

[weldin mike 27]

I just had a thought, plated fasteners, such as the yellow ones are evidently electro plated, so the coating is likely to be very thin, there fore not a great quantity of unsavoury substances. Unlike dip coated things where the coating is thicker. Structural fasteners, steel, chrome bumpers and such.

[Welding Bear]

Thanks for all the replies lads. I do have some disposable masks. but I think I may invest in a respirator. just in case

Haven't had a chance to weld over xmas but my auto darkening mask arrived. its got a rating between 9 and 13 so that's good from what ive read. I'm in Edinburgh for new year so wont get a chance to weld til the new year.

However, as a plan for when I start up again...

as ive now tried the gaps and the bevels and im still getting the gap on the underside im thinking if I travel a bit slower (more heat) and turn the WFS down slightly ill get a better penetration with less metal and therefore less build up (dontwant a big fat metallic caterpillar lol)

what do we think?

[jwright650]

the 3M #8514 does a pretty good job, it's disposable but you can get a good 8-10 hours of exposure out of those before they get loaded up and need to be trashed. It's a fair bit cheaper than buying and maintaining a full blown respirator and cartridges/prefilters/etc...
Be careful using a full blown respirator...if you haven't been checked out by your doctor, it can add a lot of extra work on your heart and lungs due to the extra difficulty and labored breathing.

[Welding Bear]

Thanks j wright. Good priced is also good especially after Xmas time!

Do you think I'm on the right track re the penetration also?

[jwright650]

Thanks j wright. Good priced is also good especially after Xmas time!

Do you think I'm on the right track re the penetration also?

Well...more voltage and slower travel speed without an increase in WFS(amps) will equate to a hotter, more fluid puddle, so if you stay out on the leading edge of the puddle, you should get penetration.

[Welding Bear]

Thanks j wright

[charliehill]

it's simply because just one pass is not enough, if the weld bead is wide and penetration is deep.
multipass, multiwire, that's common in submerged arc welding process.
of course, to finish a SAW process, you need welding fluxes and wires.
http://www.ylflux.com/

[beadfans]

HI, first reply, cares ur stick-out and welding angle and traveling angle, u will get it.

...sorry, couldn't resist that title

But actually it is this I am having problems with.

I'm new to mig welding but I've got two to three hours practise of running beads and I have now gone through and written down correct settings for various thicknesses to get my welder sizzling each time. I simply bought a bunch of plates from my local metal fabricators for ten pounds and have been practising and practising.

I am totally comfortable with laying beads and I always get a great 'heat leach' under the workpiece as I set up the mig for the hottest it can take without burning through and I'm actually surprised that steel down to 1.5mm is welded on the hottest setting for the welder. Im also using the 'loop to loop' technique to make them look pretty and most of all it's bloody good fun


Anyhow, I digress

So I tried my first few butt welds. I tried with root gaps of varying thicknesses and still I can't get the penetration correct. I have looked online and it's definitely the case that you shouldn't be able to still see the join on the backside of the workpiece. Well, even with whatever root gap I set it still won't come through lie that and I can see the gap.

Will bevelling in addition to a root gap really help? Were these other internet sources correct when they said the weld had to come through? I bashed a welded piece about a bit and in fairness the first thing to break was the middle of the steel and not my weld join.

What do you think?

Thanks in advance.

Steve