[minkfield]

I just bought my first ever welder and need some advice on buying consumables. I don't have gas (yet) so I'm going to start with flux core wire. Been researching on the internet and am completely overwhelmed with the selections available. I will probably be doing general welding (repair and fabrication) on various steel such as angle iron, bolts and rods (zinc and steel) etc. What would be a good flux core wire to get started with? I've been reading up on the coding (E71T-... etc) but there are so many variations (mostly in the type of flux/gas used) that I find it impossible to choose an all purpose wire to get started with. Obviously I can't buy one of everything so what would be a good flux core wire to for general use? Also, I'm confused about choosing between .030 and .035 wire.

Thanks for your patience and advice.

[weldin mike 27]

Hey,

With the wire classification, the 70 refers to the tensile strength of the weld metal, and the last letter, in Aus, an M or a C. It is m for mixed gas (argon based) and C is for pure carbon dioxide.

Mick

[minkfield]

Hey,

With the wire classification, the 70 refers to the tensile strength of the weld metal, and the last letter, in Aus, an M or a C. It is m for mixed gas (argon based) and C is for pure carbon dioxide.

Mick

Thanks Mick, Yes I think I understand the coding system. I'm just not sure which wire to buy to start my welding journey/learning with. I think an E71 or an E70 is a good start but how to choose from the plethora of "gas codes?" Not to mention wire thickness (.030 vs .035) and the type of metal it is made of. If you take a look at the Lincoln Electric site for example, there are literally dozens of choices. I think I want an E71 which supposedly is good for welding in any position but I am clueless on how to choose from the gas and thickness part of the specs.

Update: I guess part of my problem is that I don't really know what I will be welding yet. I didn't have a specific purpose in mind when I purchased the welder (Longevity 140). It will be for general repairs and basic fabrication as a need arises. So I'm guessing I need a good all purpose "gasless" wire.

[minkfield]

OK... I think I found an answer to the wire size question... The heavier wire will carry more current which will affect the welding capability (this makes perfect sense). But .035 may be pushing the limit on my 140 amp welder. I think I should stick to the .030 wire size correct?

[Artie F. Emm]

Here's a link to what looks like a good explanation of FC wire types.
http://www.thefabricator.com/article/ar ... ored-wires
Since you'll be working without shielding gas, you can avoid the wire types that require gas... so it seems like then your choice comes down to "flat / horizontal" or "all position".

Congrats on your new machine. Not sure if you know: machines that are capable of both shielded MIG and flux core will have a polarity switch to allow electrode positive for gas MIG or electrode negative for flux core. Sometimes this is done by a switch, or sometimes it is done by jacking the torch into the appropriate plug.

[dsmabe]

I have a Lincoln weldpak hd, it's a 110v flux core welder. Ive used .035 and .030 wire in it and currently use the .030. It get surprisingly good penetration with the right techniques.

[Shield Arc]

Go with Lincoln's NR-211, or Hobart's Fabshield 21-B.

[minkfield]

Go with Lincoln's NR-211, or Hobart's Fabshield 21-B.

Thanks... I've seen these recommended elseware. They are on my short list

[minkfield]

Here's a link to what looks like a good explanation of FC wire types.
http://www.thefabricator.com/article/ar ... ored-wires
Since you'll be working without shielding gas, you can avoid the wire types that require gas... so it seems like then your choice comes down to "flat / horizontal" or "all position".

Congrats on your new machine. Not sure if you know: machines that are capable of both shielded MIG and flux core will have a polarity switch to allow electrode positive for gas MIG or electrode negative for flux core. Sometimes this is done by a switch, or sometimes it is done by jacking the torch into the appropriate plug.

Thanks for the link

[Shield Arc]

Here is what 1/16” 21-B looks like.



Here is .068” NR-211.



And .045” NR-212.

[Superiorwelding]

Being technical here, to my knowledge there is no such thing as "gasless" wire. When the term is used describing self-shield as gasless, it is not correct. To quote the link provided earlier "As their name implies, gas-shielded flux-cored wires require an external shielding gas supply to protect the weld; self-shielded wires do not. The flux in self-shielded wires generates the shielding gas, which makes these wires highly portable and ideal for outdoor welding applications, such as structural steel, shipbuilding, and bridge construction.
I bring this up because I hear this quite a lot and it is actually misleading.
Also, I recommend .035 simply because the small machine I once had worked very well in that size.
Shield Arc, very nice my friend.
-Jonathan

[Shield Arc]

Shield Arc, very nice my friend.

Thank you Jonathan! I get lucky every once in awhile.

[Superiorwelding]

Shield Arc, very nice my friend.

Thank you Jonathan! I get lucky every once in awhile.

Well all I know is "every once in a while" must come more often for you than me
-Jonathan

[minkfield]

Being technical here, to my knowledge there is no such thing as "gasless" wire. When the term is used describing self-shield as gasless, it is not correct. To quote the link provided earlier "As their name implies, gas-shielded flux-cored wires require an external shielding gas supply to protect the weld; self-shielded wires do not. The flux in self-shielded wires generates the shielding gas, which makes these wires highly portable and ideal for outdoor welding applications, such as structural steel, shipbuilding, and bridge construction.
I bring this up because I hear this quite a lot and it is actually misleading.
Also, I recommend .035 simply because the small machine I once had worked very well in that size.
Shield Arc, very nice my friend.
-Jonathan

Thanks for the tip! I Knew that about the so called "gasless wire." I just assumed the term "gasless" denotes the fact that you do not need a separate tank to haul around when welding.

[minkfield]

Here is what 1/16” 21-B looks like.

Nice job and thank you!!

[Superiorwelding]

Being technical here, to my knowledge there is no such thing as "gasless" wire. When the term is used describing self-shield as gasless, it is not correct. To quote the link provided earlier "As their name implies, gas-shielded flux-cored wires require an external shielding gas supply to protect the weld; self-shielded wires do not. The flux in self-shielded wires generates the shielding gas, which makes these wires highly portable and ideal for outdoor welding applications, such as structural steel, shipbuilding, and bridge construction.
I bring this up because I hear this quite a lot and it is actually misleading.
Also, I recommend .035 simply because the small machine I once had worked very well in that size.
Shield Arc, very nice my friend.
-Jonathan

Thanks for the tip! I Knew that about the so called "gasless wire." I just assumed the term "gasless" denotes the fact that you do not need a separate tank to haul around when welding.

I did a little more digging and you are correct that the term "gasless" denotes no external gas source. It is a misleading term in some ways because of the fact that some might not know that there are gasses created at the arc, same with SMAW. In my opinion, it would be better for industry to use one term or the other. Note that from what I can tell, this wire is sold and marketed as self-shielded. Here is another article that might be of interest to you. Sorry for the technicality but it is a interesting topic.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... asics.aspx

So now we get into welding theory. If gases are generated at the arc in FCAW-S and SMAW, would it not then be possible to disturb this gas/flux coverage leading to inferior welds?? I have heard many weldors say you cannot blow away the "gas" or coverage but I argue that it is in fact possible, either by wind or other mechanical means. Maybe this topic deserves a new thread.
-Jonathan

[Shield Arc]

Myself and another guy welded all the pre-cast concrete deck panels for the city of Dillingham Alaska dock. We used NR-211, in winds up to 90-MPH. Had to be very careful walking around, but we could set on our a$$ for 12-hours a day, 7-days a week and weld.

[NavyLDO]

Hello Everyone.

New to this forum. Pretty new to welding. I purchased and have been using an Eastwood MIG 135 and it has been operating excellent in the restoration of my 1964 Ford Galaxie 2 Door Hardtop.

Now here is my where I need some expert help.

I have some 3/8" steel tabs that I need to weld on the top of my 9" FOrd rear end to attach a wishbone. My MIG welder can weld up to 1/4" steel (90 degree weld). I can not afford to purchase a larger MIG welder to handle that kind of steel, plus I do not see myself every welding metals of this thickness very often or at all.

Can I set my MIG 135 to the max setting, slowed the wire feeder, and made slow and controlled cursive "e" to get as much penetration as possible?

Would this work or what do the you recommend?

Please help and Thank you.

[Shield Arc]

NavyLDO, can you bevel the 3/8” thick clips? I always try to put at least a small bevel on everything.

[Shield Arc]

NavyLDO here are some pictures of a 12” beam I welded. When I want to ensure I get full penetration I bevel both sides, and make sure I get a gap, even if I have to shim to get the gap.

[MinnesotaDave]

Hello Everyone.

New to this forum. Pretty new to welding. I purchased and have been using an Eastwood MIG 135 and it has been operating excellent in the restoration of my 1964 Ford Galaxie 2 Door Hardtop.

Now here is my where I need some expert help.

I have some 3/8" steel tabs that I need to weld on the top of my 9" FOrd rear end to attach a wishbone. My MIG welder can weld up to 1/4" steel (90 degree weld). I can not afford to purchase a larger MIG welder to handle that kind of steel, plus I do not see myself every welding metals of this thickness very often or at all.

Can I set my MIG 135 to the max setting, slowed the wire feeder, and made slow and controlled cursive "e" to get as much penetration as possible?

Would this work or what do the you recommend?

Please help and Thank you.

Slowing the wire feed speed reduces the amperage.
Your machine needs to be set properly for it's highest settings.
Even then, 3/8" welded on a rear end is not a very good idea with a mig 135.
When over your head, there is no harm in prepping and tacking, then bringing it in to be finished.