I have a metal shop. 30x40 with 12 foot walls. The outside walls are metal panels attached to purlins and to a base angle at the bottom. That base angle is 2x4, 14 gauge. I want metal panels on the inside that I would attach to the same purlins, but on the inside. At the bottom I want to place another base angle like above to make the bottom attachment. The original base angle is attached to concrete with concrete nails. Instead of drilling holes in the inside base angle and the concrete, I wanted to MIG weld the two base angles to each other. The base angles lie directly on the concrete. Should I be worried about cracking the concrete?
pics would help.
i don't recommend welding against concrete.
also i would not recommend welding to the kick out flashing. you will destroy any rust proofing.
also not sure why you would want to as thats away from the inside panel. also that kickout is to push water out that drains down the back of the cladding, but on the inside thats not normally an issue. usually just but the inside panels to the floor. maybe a piece to seal to the floor.
also need something for condensation, typically a house wrap, if your using steel panels. (depending on your climate).
i don't recommend welding against concrete.
also i would not recommend welding to the kick out flashing. you will destroy any rust proofing.
also not sure why you would want to as thats away from the inside panel. also that kickout is to push water out that drains down the back of the cladding, but on the inside thats not normally an issue. usually just but the inside panels to the floor. maybe a piece to seal to the floor.
also need something for condensation, typically a house wrap, if your using steel panels. (depending on your climate).
tweak it until it breaks
Thank you for reminding me to include pics. You can see the panels I want to install. The outside wall is on the other side of my insulation in white. The insulation is sandwiched between two pieces of plastic. I do not know what weather stripping was used for the outside wall. I just know it does not leak when it rains. I will attach the inside panels to the purlins shown. At the base there is a base angle for the outside wall and it is attached with concrete nails. I will place another base angle for the inside wall up against the base angle for the outside wall that you see in the pic. I want to make some tack welds to weld them together, but these tack welds will be over concrete.
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thats much easier to see.
i would not weld it. a weld won't stop the angle from lifting off the concrete. welding on concrete is usually frowned on as the concrete can blow chunks out of it. i would just go hire a concrete nail gun or just glue it (as long as the concrete is clean). i notice no capillary break, which i would always have. it just stops the moisture coming up out of the concrete under the steel and rusting it.
no idea on climate you have, but some decent insulation and even thermal breaks might help with heat/cold.
i would not weld it. a weld won't stop the angle from lifting off the concrete. welding on concrete is usually frowned on as the concrete can blow chunks out of it. i would just go hire a concrete nail gun or just glue it (as long as the concrete is clean). i notice no capillary break, which i would always have. it just stops the moisture coming up out of the concrete under the steel and rusting it.
no idea on climate you have, but some decent insulation and even thermal breaks might help with heat/cold.
tweak it until it breaks
I live east of Dallas Texas. It gets routinely in the 100s in the summer and rarely drops below freezing in winter. I have fans for summer. I do not need much insulation. I was considering the force applied to the base angle. It is mainly downward to the concrete by weight and gravity. Nothing should make it lift up. It might need to resist horizontal movement if something bumped into it. I thought butting up against the other base angle with a few tack welds would hold it for that purpose. It is an inside wall that will not have to resist outdoor winds. Gluing sounds good if tack welding is going to be a problem. What is a capillary drain?
the bottom bit has to support sideways. but also vertical pull. especially with metal cladding the expansion/contraction will pull the bottom up/down. get a bit of dust, workshop grind under it and it will lift off the floor a bit.
a capillary break is usually a strip of plastic or tar paper/felt between the steel and the concrete to stop rising damp (to stop the steel rusting). i have seen some poor shed building practices in texas but it may be a case of its so dry they don't bother as its not a problem. where i am everything is damp so any steel you weld is going to rust real fast.
a capillary break is usually a strip of plastic or tar paper/felt between the steel and the concrete to stop rising damp (to stop the steel rusting). i have seen some poor shed building practices in texas but it may be a case of its so dry they don't bother as its not a problem. where i am everything is damp so any steel you weld is going to rust real fast.
tweak it until it breaks