mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
I have a 15 year-old Mastercraft MIG Welder (Model 58-8032-0). It’s not a common welder, only sold in Canada. Got it for $120 used. It says it takes 0.030” and 0.023” wire. I can’t figure out how to make the drive wheel line up with the wire so that it uses the smaller groove for 0.023” wire. I’ve only been able to use the inner groove which takes 0.030”. The manual says nothing about how to change over. I’ve tried prying out on the drive wheel, but it only comes out about 1/8” and if I pry harder I feel like I might break something. The pictures below are of the drive wheel mechanism and a screenshot from the manual parts diagram. #42 is the “roller holder” and #43 is the “wire feed wheel”. Does anyone have any ideas on how to adjust the drive wheel so that I can use the outer 0.023” groove? Thanks
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- drive wheel diagram.png (562.93 KiB) Viewed 5130 times
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- drive wheel 1.jpg (3.43 MiB) Viewed 5130 times
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- drive wheel 2.png (15.76 MiB) Viewed 5131 times
Jack Ryan
- Jack Ryan
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Guide
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Joined:Wed Mar 24, 2021 10:20 pm
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Location:Adelaide, Australia
I don't know that machine but it looks like the wheel should pull off so it must be stuck.
Try some penetrating oil - just a bit and only on the shaft area. If need be, I'd try a puller rather than levering against the frame. Gentle tapping might help too.
Jack
Try some penetrating oil - just a bit and only on the shaft area. If need be, I'd try a puller rather than levering against the frame. Gentle tapping might help too.
Jack
It doesn't look like anything is locking it on to the shaft. But curiousity sake have you tried holding the center shaft and turning the guide roller independent to see if it has like a quarter turn lock or something?
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I agree with the keyway it should not be some kind of turn lock system, but MasterCraft stuff is just built different to logical I find. Wouldn't shock me at all if it was some weird turn and lock system with a key way wheel.
I don't see anything in the picture that holds the roller in line with the liner entry which makes me wonder if they did something like that.
Worth a shot before more persuasive methods I figure
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I don't see anything in the picture that holds the roller in line with the liner entry which makes me wonder if they did something like that.
Worth a shot before more persuasive methods I figure
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
drizzit1aa
- drizzit1aa
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Workhorse
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Joined:Tue Oct 05, 2021 8:57 pm
If it were mine and the drive wheel wont come off easily even after prying it with 2 leavers on both side directly across form one another, I would get a butane pen torch and heat up the wheel until it I could pop it off. If the shaft gets hot stop and wait till it cools off before trying again. Sound strange but some times it helps to knock it back onto the shaft every now and then, get an old socket and tap it so you get even pressure on the drive roll.
If all else fails, since it looks like you cant get a wheel puller behind it so make an attachment (like weld a nut that will tread onto the hammer to an old socket that's big enough to slip over the shaft) for a slide hammer and tack weld it to the drive wheel.
If all else fails, since it looks like you cant get a wheel puller behind it so make an attachment (like weld a nut that will tread onto the hammer to an old socket that's big enough to slip over the shaft) for a slide hammer and tack weld it to the drive wheel.
I managed to get the drive roller off. I stuck two small shims in behind either side of the roller after spraying some PB blaster on the shaft. Then I hit the shaft with a mallet and it came loose.
- removed drive roller.jpg (3.16 MiB) Viewed 4986 times
drizzit1aa
- drizzit1aa
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Workhorse
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Joined:Tue Oct 05, 2021 8:57 pm
My advice, lightly lube the wheel and all metal components prior to reassembly with a quality synthetic base lubricant, Certain firearm lubricants work fantastic in a pinch and a lot better than anything off the shelf of a big box store, Hornady one shot, weapon shield etc. If you use a more viscous lube just wipe off the excess first. If you use a quality non PTFE dry lube or wipe the excess off, you won't need to worry about contamination. I'd be more concerned about rust contamination from that drive wheel than anything.
i would put a bit on anti-seize on the shaft. the trouble with oil and other lubes is they will come out and dry up over time.
anti-seize will stop the rust forming and also grip.
anti-seize will stop the rust forming and also grip.
tweak it until it breaks
BillE.Dee
- BillE.Dee
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:53 pm
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Location:Pennsylvania (Northeast corner)
in your final picture, there is a little black piece beside the drive wheel. Is that a piece that came off with the wheel or is that a dark spot on the board? just curious as that might have caused a pinch on the shaft and make the wheel hard to get off. kind of mess up the tolerance.
That's actually weld spatter on the wood. I need a welding table badly lolBillE.Dee wrote: ↑Fri Nov 12, 2021 10:38 am in your final picture, there is a little black piece beside the drive wheel. Is that a piece that came off with the wheel or is that a dark spot on the board? just curious as that might have caused a pinch on the shaft and make the wheel hard to get off. kind of mess up the tolerance.
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