This might be a question for Tony himself; however, I’ll listen to anyone who has an answer. I see and hear a lot of “tips” on wire feed speed and voltage; all of which are based on the metal thickness. I’ve watched Tony set up for 1/8th mild steel and with the voltage constant, adjust the wire feed speed way too low and then way to high to demonstrate the arc characteristics for each case – all of this to reinforce the proper and desired arc result when the speed and voltage are optimal (or near optimal). What I don’t understand however, is what happens if the “perfect” settings for say 1/8 mild steel lap joint is used on a 3/8 mild steel lap joint? I know the weld will not be good, or as good as it should be, but what is happening exactly in terms of the material thickness on the metal deposited and the rate of deposition? In other words, how is the thickness of the material actually impacting the physical characteristics of the weld?
I’m not sure who Tony is… but the answer to your question is: Penetration (or lack thereof). You can get MIG to run and look good and still yield a crap weld which is it’s greatest downfall. Without a proper WPS or destructive test afterwards, you’d never know the outcome.
Thanks CJ737! You can find Tony here: https://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/
I've always been a bit skeptical of all the people who "stack dimes" with a MIG gun on U-Tube - yeah, they look really cool, but how do they hold up to a cut, polish, and acid etch inspection?
I've always been a bit skeptical of all the people who "stack dimes" with a MIG gun on U-Tube - yeah, they look really cool, but how do they hold up to a cut, polish, and acid etch inspection?
If your settings aren't right on thin material (say 1/16" or 1.6 mm) then you'll have too much heat and you'll blow holes. If they aren't right on thicker material (say 3/8" or 10mm) then you won't have enough heat and the weld material will just stick on the surface rather than combine, ie: weld. Goldilocks, porridge and beds comes to mind.
Then you need to consider your wire thickness. Beautiful butt, lap or fillet welds on 1/8" or 3.2 mm thick, new material in the flat position for a Youtube video on stacking dimes is probably something even I could achieve after careful preparation, hours of practice runs and careful editing. Welding rusty steel upside down under a trailer into a 3 way corner with arc blow will not be so pretty.
Pretty sure his name is Jody.
Then you need to consider your wire thickness. Beautiful butt, lap or fillet welds on 1/8" or 3.2 mm thick, new material in the flat position for a Youtube video on stacking dimes is probably something even I could achieve after careful preparation, hours of practice runs and careful editing. Welding rusty steel upside down under a trailer into a 3 way corner with arc blow will not be so pretty.
Pretty sure his name is Jody.
Yeah, his name is Jody.PA2KTJ wrote:Thanks CJ737! You can find Tony here: https://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/
I've always been a bit skeptical of all the people who "stack dimes" with a MIG gun on U-Tube - yeah, they look really cool, but how do they hold up to a cut, polish, and acid etch inspection?
As others have said, settings that work great for a given material thickness/joint geometry will end up being "cold" when used on thicker materials. Just not enough total heat, plain and simple to create a proper, sound weld.
thicker metals have more mass to melt so need more heat and heat is made by amps. with mig amps is controlled by wire feed speed.PA2KTJ wrote:What I don’t understand however, is what happens if the “perfect” settings for say 1/8 mild steel lap joint is used on a 3/8 mild steel lap joint?
imho forget the mig and go learn stick welding. you will learn the basics a lot better.
tweak it until it breaks