Found this CH mig/flux core 30-100amp welder in a dumpster last year. Wouldn't weld right was the owners complaint. I finally got ahold of the thing to see if it would weld. Hey, a free welder, why not. Came without a regulator so tried with flux core (what I'm used to) and it welded ok. Picked up a regulator today and some 1/4"OD tubing to give it a go with C25. Got it hooked up with .023 solid wire and the problems started. Gas worked fine. Wire spool tension too tight; had to cut off sections of the spring to adjust... Drive tension not tight enough; had to file part of the arm to allow more pressure. Still stutters at times while welding, but will weld.
If it will weld sheet metal I'll hang on to it, otherwise it'll go right back where it was found.
Had to really play with the settings to get these welds. Top right was the best. Found out using gas is way different than flux core. I'm ready to get a good welder. Don't know if I'll hang on to the dumpster welder or not.
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mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
Zero porosity, which is good. Other than trying to weld on what appears to be gargantuan-thickness metal with such little power, it looks like it works just fine. Should be good up to about 1/8". One thing though, you shouldn't have that spatter, at least not with BB's that size. I have a feeling it was the wire slipping as you had mentioned. More drive roll pressure is not the answer. Use the least amount of drag on the spool that you can without the spool unraveling on you. Also check the drive roll. If it is not true and you can visibly see it the run-out as it turns, might as well get rid of it now. Been there done that. It's such a headache it's not even worth it. For solid wire you should only need ½ of the drive roll pressure at maximum, on most machines. More than that and it's usually correcting for a mechanical defect.
- bplayer405
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Good call on the spatter Oscar. Honestly I'm surprised I got that good of a weld. I'm such a newbie. I switched from flux core to solid wire without changing polarity. I realized this just minutes ago.
The "thick metal" is actually 14 gauge channel. You can see these front welds are the wrong polarity on 1/8"...
The back 3 are correct polarity with different wire feed speed. BIG difference, lol.
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The "thick metal" is actually 14 gauge channel. You can see these front welds are the wrong polarity on 1/8"...
The back 3 are correct polarity with different wire feed speed. BIG difference, lol.
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- bplayer405
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Here is the difference on 22 gauge. The cleaner, flatter spots are correct polarity. May just hang on to the "Dumpster"...
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Much better, but still very cold/tall/ropey. Do you have the machine max'd out? Nothing wrong with those welds on 22ga. Perhaps more voltage if it doesn't go too far on the step. Either way, now that you've wet your beak in the great pond that is welding, you will want a better, bigger machine.
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Yes, sir, I do. Looking pretty hard at the Hobart 190 vs 210. Not sure which one I'll go for just yet...Oscar wrote:Much better, but still very cold/tall/ropey. Do you have the machine max'd out? Nothing wrong with those welds on 22ga. Perhaps more voltage if it doesn't go too far on the step. Either way, now that you've wet your beak in the great pond that is welding, you will want a better, bigger machine.
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If you're open to other suggestions, this one is near the same price bracket, and would likely serve you well. I have three of it's big brothers, and they are incredible machines.
HTP MIG200i.
MIG200i Manual
HTP MIG200i.
MIG200i Manual
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I do like the inverter machines. I've looked at the ESAB fabricator series, along with a bunch of others. The 3 in 1s are pretty sweet, but i worry about longevity. I have a 125 flux core inverter machine that I think is a gem. I don't like the warranty coverage from where I bought it though. 90 days or buy a service plan; a bit of a joke that kills my thoughts of getting anything better from them. Tons of positive reviews from Hobart welders lasting decades. Its why I'm torn. Love today's tech, but want something that'll last.
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Do you happen to play bass (going by your forum name)?bplayer405 wrote:I do like the inverter machines. I've looked at the ESAB fabricator series, along with a bunch of others. The 3 in 1s are pretty sweet, but i worry about longevity. I have a 125 flux core inverter machine that I think is a gem. I don't like the warranty coverage from where I bought it though. 90 days or buy a service plan; a bit of a joke that kills my thoughts of getting anything better from them. Tons of positive reviews from Hobart welders lasting decades. Its why I'm torn. Love today's tech, but want something that'll last.
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Yes, I do. 5 string Ibanez BTB405. I've played bass, rhythm and lead guitar and even some keyboard over the years.
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That's sweet! I have a couple basses and a couple guitars with club rigs for each. New phone so no pics at the moment. Mostly Ibanez guitars and one ESP. Ampeg bass rig and a custom built sterio guitar rig. Nothing high dollar, working man's stuff. Played in bands about 15 years. Took a break the last couple. May do it again. Music is a big part of my life.
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TraditionalToolworks
- TraditionalToolworks
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I am a bass player, here's my electric bass, but I mostly play upright when I do (haven't for a few years though... )
I owned a vintage guitar store in Hollywood when I was younger. That's what took me to Japan for 5 years.
I owned a vintage guitar store in Hollywood when I was younger. That's what took me to Japan for 5 years.
- 1959 Fender Precision Bass
- 1959-fender-pbass-front.jpg (110.51 KiB) Viewed 4366 times
Collector of old Iron!
Alan
Alan
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Nice! Those old Fender "P's" had some good tone. Never owned one myself, but had a few friends that did. Smooth and rich tone.
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My main reluctance to purchase a higher dollar inverter setup is from my experience with power amplifiers. The toroid amps are like the transformer welders. They last a long time and can be repaired. The inverters are like the switching amps and when you have problems with them replacement parts are usually more than the amp, or welder in this case. I've had both style amps in for service. One is fixed and one isn't. Guess which one is which...
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I can assure not all inverter welders are built to the same standards as some lowly solid-state amps. There are cheap, but good, solid-state amps, and then there are real good solid-state amps. Generally speaking, barring a pricing anomaly, higher dollar inverter welders are pretty reliable, but just as with anything else, there is always a chance. Just how there is a chance that the laptop/cellphone/tablet/electronic device you used to post this thread had and still has a chance of breaking down, but you still bought it. I doubt you'r'e using a transformer laptop/cellphone/tablet/other device to get online to this forum. Do you own a television set? I think you know where I'm going here..... Just food for thought.bplayer405 wrote:My main reluctance to purchase a higher dollar inverter setup is from my experience with power amplifiers. The toroid amps are like the transformer welders. They last a long time and can be repaired. The inverters are like the switching amps and when you have problems with them replacement parts are usually more than the amp, or welder in this case. I've had both style amps in for service. One is fixed and one isn't. Guess which one is which...
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Today's tech is definitely better than just 10 years ago too. I would rather know the voltage and wire speed than some ambiguous letter and number. Its why I'm still interested in the titanium series from HF. Might be good enough for my needs. Still like the Hobart line though. Choice to make
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TraditionalToolworks
- TraditionalToolworks
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You may have heard of Walter Woods amps, he lived not too far from where I grew up, he was in Sherman Oaks, CA area. I had moved, but not sure if that was where he moved to or was originally located. He built out of his home. One of the smallest and best bass amps, EVER, IMO. Used by many studio guys to go direct into the mixer...not only did I used to use one when I played, but I sold a dozen of them to Japan when I lived there in the 80s.bplayer405 wrote:My main reluctance to purchase a higher dollar inverter setup is from my experience with power amplifiers.
Great amps, I used to use mine with a Gary Raymond 1x15 cabinet, that was such a combo with the Walter Woods head. You could play most any club in L.A. with that, jazz, fusion or even rock.
I will never forget when John Patitucci came onto the scene...he was the first cat to be able to play upright and fusion/electric well, IMO. He was the talk of the town in L.A. and we'd all go to see him at the Baked Potato. That dude has some amazing chops...
Ok, I digress...I love music and always will, but I like to build $#!T also...and what brings me to welding.
Collector of old Iron!
Alan
Alan
- bplayer405
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Built a cart today for my welder to move easily around the garage. "Dumpster" is a fitting name for this machine. At times it welds great, but about 50% or more of the time it spits, sputters or just makes the wire glow. May just be a ground issue. The ground clamp is very sub-par. If it doesn't weld better after upgrading the clamp I may need a good welder sooner than I expected.
It does like .023 wire way better than .030 too...
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It does like .023 wire way better than .030 too...
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- bplayer405
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Built a cart today for my welder to move easily around the garage. "Dumpster" is a fitting name for this machine. At times it welds great, but about 50% or more of the time it spits, sputters or just makes the wire glow. May just be a ground issue. The ground clamp is very sub-par. If it doesn't weld better after upgrading the clamp I may need a good welder sooner than I expected.
It does like .023 wire way better than .030 too... Pic is of .023 wire weld.
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It does like .023 wire way better than .030 too... Pic is of .023 wire weld.
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This welder looks a bit better on my cart... Haven't had a chance to run any beads yet. Picked it up today and got a great deal. Had to run a 220v line for it, set up the welder then hit a snag with the hose (need a line splice fitting). Ready to go other than that.Oscar wrote:Much better, but still very cold/tall/ropey. Do you have the machine max'd out? Nothing wrong with those welds on 22ga. Perhaps more voltage if it doesn't go too far on the step. Either way, now that you've wet your beak in the great pond that is welding, you will want a better, bigger machine.
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This welder looks a bit better on my cart... Haven't had a chance to run any beads yet. Picked it up today and got a great deal. Had to run a 220v line for it, set up the welder then hit a snag with the hose (need a line splice fitting). Ready to go other than that.Oscar wrote:Much better, but still very cold/tall/ropey. Do you have the machine max'd out? Nothing wrong with those welds on 22ga. Perhaps more voltage if it doesn't go too far on the step. Either way, now that you've wet your beak in the great pond that is welding, you will want a better, bigger machine.
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Got my hose issue remedied so had to see how it welds for me. Runs very hot from what I'm used to. Started at the front on the right and progressed left and back. This hobart will change things a lot for me.
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