Processing tack weld seam on sheet metal - grinding/polishing
Hello,
Since a couple of days and almost weeks now, I'm eagerly learning Mig welding using Jody's videos and other recommended sources found on his page.
Something I do not encounter in detail is, how to grind the welds on sheet metal using the adequate material without touching 'as much as possible' the base metal ?
As with all thousands of other sources on the net on Mig, the problem is the same for this topic, a thousand different methods and advices
Can you help me see the forest trough the threes ... as per Jody's and Bleile's experience, I hope there is some kind of guideline to follow as well in grinding?
Thanks in advance
mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
- weldin mike 27
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:59 pm
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Location:Australia; Victoria
Hey there,
Learning how to grind jobs flush without chewing into the surrounding base metal takes a lot practice. The main thing is to take your time. Grind with the wheel spinning across the weld, and lay the grinders as flat down as you can. You can even lay it down on the guard if the wheel isn't hanging out. If the guard is in good condition, that will hold you machine nice and stable. Then it's a matter if watching what's going on and making minute adjustments to the angle left and right. Ie if you hit outside the zone on the left, tilt to the right. The other thing is to grind a certain way down with a grinding wheel and then change the a sanding disc like mentioned above or a flap disc, which will smooth the whole process out. You can but special segmented discs that have notches in them so you can see what's happening under the wheel, but I don't how good they are.
Best, mick.
Learning how to grind jobs flush without chewing into the surrounding base metal takes a lot practice. The main thing is to take your time. Grind with the wheel spinning across the weld, and lay the grinders as flat down as you can. You can even lay it down on the guard if the wheel isn't hanging out. If the guard is in good condition, that will hold you machine nice and stable. Then it's a matter if watching what's going on and making minute adjustments to the angle left and right. Ie if you hit outside the zone on the left, tilt to the right. The other thing is to grind a certain way down with a grinding wheel and then change the a sanding disc like mentioned above or a flap disc, which will smooth the whole process out. You can but special segmented discs that have notches in them so you can see what's happening under the wheel, but I don't how good they are.
Best, mick.
- weldin mike 27
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:59 pm
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Location:Australia; Victoria
- Thomas O'C
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New Member
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Joined:Fri Jan 04, 2019 12:25 pm
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Location:Belgium
Thank you.
Those see through disc are really nice!
Okay, so removing most of the weld using a grinding wheel in vertical position is not done?
I found this video, that doesn't grind vertical too, "confirming" what you're saying:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8oGIa0c3hY
What would the ideal flow of discs to use?
I saw, thanks to that Wurth link, the different possibilities:
https://www.wurthusa.com/Abrasives-Cutt ... s/c/100202
Thank you all.
Those see through disc are really nice!
Okay, so removing most of the weld using a grinding wheel in vertical position is not done?
I found this video, that doesn't grind vertical too, "confirming" what you're saying:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8oGIa0c3hY
What would the ideal flow of discs to use?
I saw, thanks to that Wurth link, the different possibilities:
https://www.wurthusa.com/Abrasives-Cutt ... s/c/100202
Thank you all.
- weldin mike 27
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
-
Joined:Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:59 pm
-
Location:Australia; Victoria
If I understand what you mean, then no. The grinding wheel is not used vertical, as in, on its edge. Thats only done when you need to grind into the joint for a weld preparation or removing a defect.
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