mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
cloves
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    Thu Feb 15, 2018 10:38 pm

Hi all,

Finally setup my Lincoln 175 (220)(been sitting new in its box for years) because I need to patch in some new sheet metal onto my truck. I had a few questions and hoping to get some advice. Will be using c25 indoors in the garage. From my reading I should have my regulator set between 15-20 and/or 10? My Harris 601 has 2 sets of numbers L/min and scfh, which one should I be using and are my number correct?

I have a donor car that I sliced some of the side panel off from and then cleaned. The metal feels pretty thick and strong, much thicker that I thought it would have. It's from a 2001 saab. Using my caliper gauge the measurement looks like 0.75 mm so its about 21 ga looking at my Lincoln chart. I set up the welder at A 2 and bumped it up to A 2.5 for the test welds. Used some butt welding clamps which keeps a gap in between the metal. I was only able to get one tack to span the two pieces nicely. The rest was pretty terrible, making the two pieces connect was challenging . I will be stitch welding the final repair when I am able to dial in the welder and technique.

Should I first trying running straight bead before attempting to tackle stitching up the gap between the butt weld clamps? Assume that I have to start the puddle on one side of the gap and then flick my wrist to wick it across or am I just hitting the center and trying to make double contact?

Thoughts and comments?

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High res of what I welded
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a9c8788e0c0e/IMAG2204.jpg?http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a9c878d58cb0/IMAG2205.jpg?
cj737
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    Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:59 am

I run much higher CFM, like 20-25. When tacking the sheet metal, skip several inches away between tacks. This will help keep the heat down and reduce the shrinkage of the two panels.
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