Welding Tips and Tricks

This is my TIG Monster Claw! It's purpose is to aid in feeding rod for TIG welding and I designed it in CAD/Blender and printed it on my 3D Printer. There are 5 total paths to ride on. I think it's perfect for the n00b all the way to the expert but I'm hoping to get feed back on just how well it helps your TIG life. I'm a n00b but we'll see just how quick this might make me an expert
This claw really only works on the middle finger which was a bonus convenience. You can use your ring finger but it's not as functional IMO. So let the hand gestures roll and now you've got a legitimate excuse to flip the bird, cuz you're just TIG'in!

I demonstrate the various angles that can be used in this Youtube video and you can see the various rod angles I used in CAD to cut the paths out in some of the thumbnails. I'm in AZ and it was 112 outside so I was sweatin in the video. My first Youtube face video too so why not look "hot"? Judge away...
[youtube]https://youtu.be/xa1KH_aA9d0[/youtube]

The rod paths work perfectly for a 1/8 rod with my large finger scaling for prints I recommend below. There are rod guide paths in each cut that accommodate said 1/8, and then a separate rod path logically aligned that accommodates pretty much any smaller rod you could imagine but hey prove me wrong, and edit the .blend file if you'd like

You can download this thing at:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1682883

The model that can be downloaded is a left handed only model, and must be used on the middle finger unless you want cramps but feel free to experiment! To print a right handed claw, just mirror the image usually on the X axis.

I'm curious for those that have a 3D printer or access to one, if you'd print one or a set and let me know your thoughts. I'm just a n00b and I'm gonna learn with this but I wanna know what some pros, novices, and other n00bs think about my new invention! Be as honest and candid as you'd like

When I get chance I'll try and print one at school. Did you have any supports or any other things that needed to be modified and which side faced up.

You'll want to print it tip up and if you want one for both hands, mirror it on the x axis. For large size glove scale it up 1.08 (1.00 being normal) .
Have only the edge of the finger guard on the plate with the upper portion of the claw supported by supports. This gives a clean finish and just a lil bit of support mess at the very back of the claw which is the least important area.

I did use supports with .05 spacing and 15% filler for the support, 40% for the model itself and 3mm walls.

Thanks for checking it out and I look forward to hearin how it works for you!

Also if you view the print instructions on the thingiverse.com site it gives a bit more detail. I'll be clarifying bits and pieces as time goes on but I figure everything posted and said thus far should get this started

What medium are you printing with?

What are the advantages? Would it not just melt? Or am I mental? I'm certainly usually first to ask the dumb questions.



Kym

There's no such thing as dumb questions especially in the research and development department!

I'm printing with ABS and it has a pretty high melting point. 105 celsius glass, and you usually print it at 230 celsius. It generally remains pretty solid up to about 200 degrees and of course everyone is familiar with ABS since it's what most thing are made out of including your fairings for our bikes so you know what they can handle. P.S. 200 degrees celsius is 392 degrees Fahrenheit and 230c is 446f

If I'm not mistaken, TIG torch bodies are made from ABS as well. It's possible it could melt but that's part of the idea to test the design out and see if it holds up. At worst it costs about $1 to make, and about 4 hours of print time if printing two claws.

The reason I'm finding this tool useful is the fact I can let gravity and friction hold the rod in place letting my thumb and/or index finger focus on feeding the rod rather than balancing and feeding. I can also rest the rod on the claw in any of the positions then take my finger off the rod and it will stay with gravity/friction. The youtube video gives a quick demo of this in the beginning and mid way through.

The guide paths also keep the rod straight and consistent, or true as some professions would say. Rather than rely on your fingers to keep it straight which is damn near impossible, this tool does it for you.

This also slips on a glove or can be sewn in permanently. All in all there's quite a few advantages I see to it and plenty more I've forgotten to mention or haven't found I'm sure.

Still this is all my opinion, so stay tuned for some real experts to give their brutally honest opinions!

Okay, all good.

I guess the thing that I keep coming back to is...if you are ever without it, what happens then?

Not knocking the concept, but I am a believer in being able to weld with the absolute minimum of mechanical aids. Kudos to you though, for thinking outside the square.


Kym

I completely agree learning to use without it would be best.
On that thought, using a penny on a flat head screw works great, but using a proper driver for the proper screw does wonders.
Every tool has it's place. Not saying this is a game changer, but it could be!

Another reason I enjoy this tool is the ability to feed and retract the rod consistently and about 3x as fast as I can without it. It's also more comfortable to feed the rod than without so I was able to feed rod probably about 3x as long as without too before my carpal tunnal started bein a problem and my hands would start hating me.

I definitely appreciate the kudos and feedback! Keep it comin

Who can print me one of these to try.....

I applaud your effort and creativity - but I find this to be a gimmic rather than actually helpful.

My reasoning is that when actually welding, rod is fed from so many angles and body positions that this would be a hinderance.

It likely would work fine for welding practice coupons, but the time would be better spent learning to feed rod.

In my opinion.

RICK_H, I'm in AZ but if you don't find someone then I might just print up a batch and work on getting a set to you.

MinnesotaDave, Appreciate the input! The gimmick part, maybe but it's free and gimmicks usually apply to something you've gotta spend money on I'm able to feed at any angle with the 5 different guide paths using this very comfortably so I'd be interested in seeing a position this couldn't take care of but I know it's not going to fix every situation. P.S. I resist anything that goes against my practice too.

The most important thing here is it's one tool, and just like every tool I hope you have in your tool box, has a fairly specific purpose unless you're half ass'in it like the guy that uses a flat head for a pry bar or chisel. The bonus to the claw is you spend less effort trying to hold the rod from that "any angle" position which gives you more effort to apply at feeding the rod. It helps me stabilize in and feed it more straight in those awkward positions too.

Again I'm a n00b with no true TIG skill set here, just an engineering background with a lot of random experience and all sorts of tools to get damn near any job done. It's fun trying to find functional purposes for my 3D printer too.
I'm still leaving it to the experienced like you to give the real down n dirty! If I'm lucky, one of you brave souls will print these damn things out and give me a real opinion too. If you live in the Phoenix, AZ area I'd be willing to make a set and give em to you if only for the sake of curiosity

In the mean time I figured I'd add some useful pix to give a better idea as to how it works and for better criticism. Bonus for Jody, I'm using his TIG finger to also demonstrate the lack of concern I have for it melting. If it did, ABS peels clean off any metal and I'd rather it be ABS than my glove!

Let's see a video if it in actual use.

I AGREE! I'm waiting on my new TIG from Everlast but it was being shipped in and now caught up in customs. As soon as it gets here I'll try to figure out how to shoot a welding video which will be a first and then we'll see!
But that'll be me with my novice skills, which albeit a worthy proof of concept in itself, I'm still hopin a real pro tries it out and does one too.

MinnesotaDave wrote:I applaud your effort and creativity - but I find this to be a gimmic rather than actually helpful.

My reasoning is that when actually welding, rod is fed from so many angles and body positions that this would be a hinderance.

It likely would work fine for welding practice coupons, but the time would be better spent learning to feed rod.

In my opinion.

Dave, you and I feel the same way, I'm curious about the feel, I'd give some good honest feedback. I applaud the creativity and outside the box thinking...mad props for that

Rick, let me know what size TIG glove you wear and if your glove tips are snug or a bit loose i.e. OJs glove vs. a Stick glove. Brand wouldn't hurt either just for current/future reference.
I'll print you up a set and I'll ship em out to you. It'll be worth the cost cuz I'm very curious myself.

For reference I've got the BSX Large gloves in the pix which while they have the perfect length tip to knuckle for every finger n thumb, they are a bit loose but the claw fits perfectly on those with the 1.08 scaling. If they were snug, I'd probably have to print it a bit smaller or keep the 1.00 scaling which fits my bare finger well.

PM sent...

entity-unknown wrote: I definitely appreciate the kudos and feedback! Keep it comin

Clever and has style

I'd change the side groves to simple Vs so that rod size didn't matter and friction would be lower. Having screwed up my left hand, I'm looking at a few more months of recovery before I can feed rod normally. This might actually work out decently as a prop in the mean time. I'll print one out and give it a run.

-Sandow

I didn't think of the V guide so score and thanks for the input!
The guides all have a smaller groove in them and should really allow most any size rod 1/8 and less ride smoothly. I'm not sure yet but I'll have my 3/32 rods in tomorrow so I can validate.
Either way I'll try to cut one up with some virtual V-stock in Blender and see how it looks. I'll work on that after I get to test this model out soon with the hopefully en-route PowerPro 256Si...

Definitely looking forward to hearin how it works out for you especially in your situation since I made it for almost the same reason. Permanent damage from 16+ years security engineering, development among, less lock picking, and a plethora of other precision hand gestures.

Cheers!

Interesting for sure, I wonder how long will the rod be when it becomes too short to feed?

Good question!
If you're using the guides at the tip of the claw and resting on the base of the claw, you can go all the way till the end of the rod gets to the base of the claw which is 2" of rod. You can begin rotating your feeding hand upward walking the rod with the thumb to the tip of the pinky and then moving the ring and/or index finger to grab and feed the remaining rod.

If you use the key holes then you can dip as close as you're willing to get with the rod sticking out of the key holes in the front of the claw. So you could probably have about 1/4 - 1/2 " left of rod using the keyholes.

Alright just for fun the and sake of trying to get some real experts, not just the developer to give some feedback as to whether this design is actually useful or not....

I'll print a set of these TIG Monster Claws for the first person to reply to this post and ask for them. I'll pay for the shipping too so it'll be 100% free which they'd be if you had a 3D printer anyways. If you're local to Phoenix/Mesa, AZ then I'll print a set for you just cuz you're local so it's not much of a hassle at all.

Either way very curious and it'll be worth the shipping fee to get a professional opinion. BTW don't forget I'll never make any money off of these. I've just created several things in other areas that helped the world and I made them free too including a patent I have which is royalty free. I just have fun with making things and if I find it useful I like to share!

The only stipulation is if I print them for you, you must provide some critical feedback here.

AND... HERE...WE... GO!

I'm In. Want me to PM address? Or here is fine.

General Zod
666 Kryptonite Dr
Planet Krypton 99999

No Spam please. J/k about the address.

So I finally got my welder and got to try out my TIG Monster Claw. I'm very pleased! I had no idea what I was doing at first and just ruined most of this aluminum project box I got but feeding rod wasn't hard. I did melt my first claw to the point it's unusable but I believe it to be 100% user error. I've since used it on some other practice runs and realized I was running with too much Amps and not enough travel speed. I also lost all sense of rod control and held it there way tooo long. So yeah I melted that first claw. Since then (like 30 minutes of welding time) I've learned I needed way less power than I was using and picked up the travel speed. Since then I've got that 30 minutes of weld time with no melting claws.
This is definitely making rod feeding a lot better and I've already realized some changes I should make to the design. I don't need as many rod guide paths, really just one on the outside and the one key hole. I'm gonna thicken the areas around the keyhole as well to give it some longevity but I seriously think this is going to make TIG'in much easier for me. I was able to lay down a decent "stack o dimes" on a couple beads too but again still a n00b.
Rick and Oscar should have theirs sets now and I've seen some of the work they've dished out which is quality so it'll really come down to what their opinions are. Still from the n00b view, I'm so glad I made this tool!

I'm about to open the package in a little while, but yea they're here.

Oscar wrote:I'm about to open the package in a little while, but yea they're here.

Let's see a video of your wire feeding prowess...