Welding Tips and Tricks

i have some wheels and some hooks (to tie a chain around to secure an argon bottle) that i need to weld on my welding cart, both of them have some galvanized coating and i will use a flap disk to get most of it off, but are there any more precautions i need to take in order to tig weld it? i know its complete crap to breathe it in,but ill be welding it outside

(not 100% sure the metal that they are made of, ill do a burst tack and file to see if its cast iron, if it is, should i just tig braze it? if the test feels like a mild steel, then ill just say screw it and weld it.)

regards

noah

Cast iron is not usually zinc plated. Zinc in your weld pool is pita. If you have got it off with the flap diac you're good to go.

Depending on what style of hooks they are they might be pot metal of some sort. Either way the tack test will tell you what you need to know.

Most of the time grinding it off works but if it's gotten impregnated you're in for some fun. You could always bolt it.

You'll become a expert tungsten sharpener if it's impregnated....ugh been there. Flap disc it good at least 1/4" past where you'll be welding.

I've been using emt conduit to practice cluster joints and I've been happy just using muriatic (hydrochloric) acid to strip off galvanization. It won't eat iron so just toss it in and when it stops bubbling it is clean. If you then do a few minutes in phosphoric acid, it will give it a thin rust resistant layer that is fine to weld through. It'll still need something as a real rust preventative like paint, powder or black oxide. Handy for stripping mill scale too.

-Sandow

If you use acid be careful not to breathe the fumes. It might not kill you, but it sure isn't fun to breath. Acid does work well. I also sand blast some stuff.

I often weld small bits of metal at home to practice when I can. Would muriatic acid work for small parts, I.e. nuts, bolts, nails, etc. Especially nuts.
I have tons of hardware at home but I can't grind it good enough to be comfortable welding it in the basement. Most of the items would fit in a pickle jar so it's nothing big.
What would be a good material to make a carriage from, sort of like a fryer basket to lower and raise the pieces in?

Thanks for the help.

Or you might be able to burn it off. I think it's something like 900 deg f to get rid of zinc. 900deg f is about equal to red hot i.e. Visible light emitted from the part. Granted that may make your small parts softer than you want but at least the galv will be gone.

When using muriatic acid, use it outside.

The fumes will put a brown coating on all bare steel, machine tools, etc.

JHenze646 wrote:...What would be a good material to make a carriage from, sort of like a fryer basket to lower and raise the pieces in?

Thanks for the help.

Stainless steel kitchen sieve. Small one with a handle. Put the acid in an old 8 oz. plastic margarine tub.

Steve S

Be sure to use your crappiest collet setup. I've got BBs permanently stuck to my gas lens defuser from the last time I welded galvanized.

Otto Nobedder wrote:

JHenze646 wrote:...What would be a good material to make a carriage from, sort of like a fryer basket to lower and raise the pieces in?

Thanks for the help.

Stainless steel kitchen sieve. Small one with a handle. Put the acid in an old 8 oz. plastic margarine tub.

Steve S

Thank you. This was along the lines that I was thinking.

Turbo wrote:Be sure to use your crappiest collet setup. I've got BBs permanently stuck to my gas lens defuser from the last time I welded galvanized.

Noted. Thank you.

Turbo wrote:Be sure to use your crappiest collet setup. I've got BBs permanently stuck to my gas lens defuser from the last time I welded galvanized.

I've seen some people do a home brew copper plating on the screen in the diffuser to prevent the steel sticking.
I can't remember if it was here or another forum, but it wasn't more than six months back, if I remember correctly.

The way I get galvanized off small parts is to sold them in metal prep and when the foaming stops rinse in water and dry off. I have found that grinding smears it and some times does not get it all off.

I use the acid all the time to remove the gold plating on grade 8 hardware if I have to weld it.
The gallon I have has lasted me several years and is still more than 1/2 full.

I used a Pyrex container as regular glass can break if you put in too much material since it generates heat. Dont ask how I know this.
Something to be aware of if using plastic containers.

And the fumes...

Yeah be sure to do it outside and upwind of the container if able. Or wear a respirator, the fumes cant always be seen but you KNOW when you breath them.

I use lime away--- I guess a less strong acid than muratic....