Hey everybody, I'm new to TIG and new to the forum, longtime fan of the videos. I recently got an Everlast 256s and have been teaching myself to tig and am struggling on tee joints with aluminum. I'm using 3/32 2% Lanth electrodes, 3/32 filler, 20 chf argon and 150amps (foot pedal) on 3/16ths AL my local steel supplier gave me from drop shear pieces. Everything cleaned bright shiny and wiped with acetone. Dedicated diamond wheel for the electrode, wide point. I can lay a bead I wouldn't enter in a contest but is okay on the plate when it is flat, outside corner, or butt joint pretty well, for only being about half way through my first pound of AL filler rod. I still jab or dip the electrode occasionally, and my filler feed hand isn't all the way up to speed, but I'm completely stumped when I try to do a tee joint.
The exact same material and settings and I can't even get a puddle. I go up and down in amperage, tried balling the tip, ran myself in circles on AC balance and HZ, and all I get is Fido's butt if I can actually get something resembling a bead. I basically have all the problems Jody describes in this video at this point: https://youtu.be/LuRCoEshNto?t=7m32s , but none of the fixes he lists seem to help. I never could find his follow up video he talks about, either.
I'm leaning towards still too long of arc, even though I'm trying to get in so tight I am grinding electrodes from dipping all the time. I also don't think I have a good feel for what AC balance and HZ settings are best for this situation, but I have good cleaning and the only contamination I'm getting is from dipping the electrode or stabbing it with filler. My flat beads on the same material look fine. I was hoping someone here could give me a few more ideas or drills to practice that would help me conquer the Tee joint.
Greatly appreciate any help, my searches didn't find much, I apologize if it's been covered and I didn't see it looking.
- Otto Nobedder
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Welcome, PlugUgly,
First, you'll note most of us sign with a real name (even if it's made up, it's more personal if we call you "Bill".)
Second, turn that welder up. You're going to need it to properly start an aluminum tee. Set it to it's max, and use the foot pedal as it's intended. I'd turn off all pulse features for this... once you get what's happening, turn it back on and use it.
You'll notice the arc doesn't want to pick a side when you're tight in the corner. That's normal, and you can use it to your advantage. Keep the current low with the pedal, say the 150 you set as max, and drift the arc from side to side to put heat in and create a small molten area in each side of the tee. You want to see the corners break to know the molten area is large enough. Then mash it and feed your first dip. This assures complete penetration at the start of your weld. Back off the pedal, advance, keep tight, and wait for the molten area to catch up before adding filler again. Again, you want to see the corners break, but it's easier now as you have an established puddle that will follow the heat. Give a burst on the pedal, and add filler again. Lather, rinse, repeat. Once it becomes a rythem, then the pulse features will serve you.
You'll also have to learn to control your tungsten-to-puddle distance... You'll have to draw the torch back slightly as you add rod, because an aluminum puddle swells quickly and with crap on your tungsten in a heartbeat. That tungsten distance is the biggest difference between steel and aluminum.
Steve S
First, you'll note most of us sign with a real name (even if it's made up, it's more personal if we call you "Bill".)
Second, turn that welder up. You're going to need it to properly start an aluminum tee. Set it to it's max, and use the foot pedal as it's intended. I'd turn off all pulse features for this... once you get what's happening, turn it back on and use it.
You'll notice the arc doesn't want to pick a side when you're tight in the corner. That's normal, and you can use it to your advantage. Keep the current low with the pedal, say the 150 you set as max, and drift the arc from side to side to put heat in and create a small molten area in each side of the tee. You want to see the corners break to know the molten area is large enough. Then mash it and feed your first dip. This assures complete penetration at the start of your weld. Back off the pedal, advance, keep tight, and wait for the molten area to catch up before adding filler again. Again, you want to see the corners break, but it's easier now as you have an established puddle that will follow the heat. Give a burst on the pedal, and add filler again. Lather, rinse, repeat. Once it becomes a rythem, then the pulse features will serve you.
You'll also have to learn to control your tungsten-to-puddle distance... You'll have to draw the torch back slightly as you add rod, because an aluminum puddle swells quickly and with crap on your tungsten in a heartbeat. That tungsten distance is the biggest difference between steel and aluminum.
Steve S
Thanks for the tips, I'll try more amperage and finer pedal control. I haven't even played with the pulse at all yet, I wanted to get the basics down. I've been working on all the things you mentioned, and in the past when I cranked the amps up all I was successful in was melting a big hole in my material. I must have been too aggressive when I tried it in the past.
Cheers -Ryan
Cheers -Ryan
- Otto Nobedder
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Ryan, I regret that it's not possible to demonstrate what I'm explaining.
Once you see it, and have done it once or twice...
Aluminum is not the great mystery some would have you believe.
Steve S
Once you see it, and have done it once or twice...
Aluminum is not the great mystery some would have you believe.
Steve S
- MosquitoMoto
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Ryan -
As a relative Tig newbie I have to say that the piece of advice that helped me most was 'use enough amps on aluminium!', as Steve has noted above.
I farted around for far too long with low amps, waiting for some kind of magic to happen, and terrified that if I used too many amps everything would wind up on my shoes in a heartbeat.
Learning how to use plenty amps, get a puddle going fast, but then modulate the pedal well enough to maintain it without melting through - that's when it started to come together for me.
All the best with your welding!
Kym
As a relative Tig newbie I have to say that the piece of advice that helped me most was 'use enough amps on aluminium!', as Steve has noted above.
I farted around for far too long with low amps, waiting for some kind of magic to happen, and terrified that if I used too many amps everything would wind up on my shoes in a heartbeat.
Learning how to use plenty amps, get a puddle going fast, but then modulate the pedal well enough to maintain it without melting through - that's when it started to come together for me.
All the best with your welding!
Kym
also as you advance your weld remember to maintain the same (or close)
torch angle to your work. when learning to weld it is easy to lean the torch
and not advance the torch with the puddle. this will lengthen the arc distance
from the puddle. and as Jody always says keep a tight arc then keep a tight arc.
craig
torch angle to your work. when learning to weld it is easy to lean the torch
and not advance the torch with the puddle. this will lengthen the arc distance
from the puddle. and as Jody always says keep a tight arc then keep a tight arc.
craig
htp invertig 221
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
exnailpounder
- exnailpounder
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My 2 cents. All good advice up there^^^. If possible, get your work piece in an advantageous position. In the field we have to usually get ourselves in position but sitting at a table, put your work in the most comfortable position you can. After you get some seat time you can practice in harder positions. As Steve stated, aluminum isn't hard it's just different and when it all goes south on aluminum, it goes south in a hurry. Have fun with the learning process and don't worry if you don't get it right away. Have fun!!!
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
Yup we all been there, I know I have. Crank up those Damn amps, make sure the fit up is tight, and flat-foot that pedal!!!MosquitoMoto wrote:Ryan -
As a relative Tig newbie I have to say that the piece of advice that helped me most was 'use enough amps on aluminium!', as Steve has noted above.
I farted around for far too long with low amps, waiting for some kind of magic to happen, and terrified that if I used too many amps everything would wind up on my shoes in a heartbeat.
Learning how to use plenty amps, get a puddle going fast, but then modulate the pedal well enough to maintain it without melting through - that's when it started to come together for me.
All the best with your welding!
Kym
