Welding Tips and Tricks

I did theese for a buddy of mine and afterwards i saw a couple of things i should have done differently..

For example it would have been better tracing the outlines of the piece and then shape it, i didn't see that untill i was done with the first one.
The first one i tacked to the reenforcement piece and then shaped it.
Anyway, one of the brackets needed a little bit of straightening but it didn't need much heat put in to it to start flexing.

This is by the way a reenforcement of a original part:p
The welds are not perfect, and if anyone has any tips for me you're welcome to share them with me..

I forgot theese..

Not too bad, have done a lot worse myself

I have found that it will be easier to weld different thickness together if I bevel the thicker part. The thinner piece will melt down a bot and then the filler build it up again. Can then be ground flush if a clean finnish is required.

Your plates looks thick enough to bevel both.

Here is an example:

http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... =20#p53249

AndersK wrote:Not too bad, have done a lot worse myself

I have found that it will be easier to weld different thickness together if I bevel the thicker part. The thinner piece will melt down a bot and then the filler build it up again. Can then be ground flush if a clean finnish is required.

Your plates looks thick enough to bevel both.

Here is an example:

http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... =20#p53249

Thanks! i need a bit more seat time:)

I will try the bevel tip! And as you said; they were thick enough to bevel both..

Do you have a standard setting for gas pressure? Most of the time you have to change the flow as you change lenses but i was wondering about pressure?!
I have mine set to about 4.5bar, seems to work but i can empty a 20l tube in what seems to be no time at all..
And NO i don't have any leaks.. checked that several times

I cant read pressure on my regulator, just flow rate (and tank pressure of course )
Normally using between 4-8 l/min.

If you done a lot of mig and new to tig its a shock to many how much more gas a tig consumes

Another tip regarding fabricating parts like this when you have such good template if you have a decent wood router.
Rough cut the piece down to 1-2 mm excess then put a trim flush bit in the router. Bolt the plates together (or tack flush) then run the router along. Will leave perfect shape and then you can change to a chamfer bit and bevel edges.

Just be careful, some here will swear at me for suggesting this , but it works

AndersK wrote:Another tip regarding fabricating parts like this when you have such good template if you have a decent wood router.Rough cut the piece down to 1-2 mm excess then put a trim flush bit in the router. Bolt the plates together (or tack flush) then run the router along. Will leave perfect shape and then you can change to a chamfer bit and bevel edges.

Just be careful, some here will swear at me for suggesting this , but it works

The router trick works great, I agree. I use it to chamfer some of my aluminum parts.Like he said, use the flush bit, and then you can use a 45 degree chamfer bit on one side afterwards. This will open up the part and allow your weld to penetrate deeper and be a lot prettier (more flush with the surface of each part) USE LOTS OF WD-40 TO GET A CLEAN CUT.

Aaron@6061.com wrote:

AndersK wrote:Another tip regarding fabricating parts like this when you have such good template if you have a decent wood router.Rough cut the piece down to 1-2 mm excess then put a trim flush bit in the router. Bolt the plates together (or tack flush) then run the router along. Will leave perfect shape and then you can change to a chamfer bit and bevel edges.

Just be careful, some here will swear at me for suggesting this , but it works

The router trick works great, I agree. I use it to chamfer some of my aluminum parts.Like he said, use the flush bit, and then you can use a 45 degree chamfer bit on one side afterwards. This will open up the part and allow your weld to penetrate deeper and be a lot prettier (more flush with the surface of each part) USE LOTS OF WD-40 TO GET A CLEAN CUT.

I think it might be so that i'm compareing gas use with MIG..

I'm actually looking for a router for this exact purpose, but i want a old one with 400v power..
New ones are to expensive for me to justify buying..
Anders, do you use a wood blade for it?

Aaron@6061.com wrote: USE LOTS OF WD-40 TO GET A CLEAN CUT.

...and even more acetone to clean that mess off

Yes, standard wood bits.
If you use a guide carbide grinding bits can be used, and then also for steel.

AndersK wrote:
Yes, standard wood bits.
If you use a guide carbide grinding bits can be used, and then also for steel.

I totally missread and did not understand the router part..
you are talking about a överhandsfräs right?

that makes more sense:)

AndersK wrote:

Aaron@6061.com wrote: USE LOTS OF WD-40 TO GET A CLEAN CUT.

...and even more acetone to clean that mess off
.

Am I the only one that uses non-chlorinated brake cleaner instead of acetone? Just curious...
But yes, the WD-40 will make a huge mess!

jockewahlstrom wrote: you are talking about a överhandsfräs right?

Yes


I've never tried brake cleaner, would you say it does a better job than Acetone?

Aaron@6061.com wrote:

AndersK wrote:

Aaron@6061.com wrote: USE LOTS OF WD-40 TO GET A CLEAN CUT.

...and even more acetone to clean that mess off
.

Am I the only one that uses non-chlorinated brake cleaner instead of acetone? Just curious...
But yes, the WD-40 will make a huge mess!

I use brake cleaner, it works great but some people say that it stay in the pores of aluminum and when it boils, gases are way more poisonus than acetone gases.. I don't know

Let's put the brake-parts cleaner story in it's place.

For many years, brake cleaner contained methylene chloride (a possible carcinogen and nerve agent on it's own, by the way), with chloroflourocarbons as propellant. These two items BOTH make toxic nerve agents when heated above their flash-points.

There are true stories of welders being killed or seriously injured from using these products to clean parts before welding.

Here are the facts:

MC is extremely volatile, and will evaporate within minutes (even seconds, if you pre-heat a part).
MC is banned for most commercial uses, and no longer occurs in brake cleaner, unless you buy a bulk knock-off counterfeit brand.
CFCs have been banned as propellants in aerosol cans for many years.

Look for the words, "Non-Chlorinated". They appear on every can af brake cleaner you will find outside of a garage sale. These are no more harmful than using acetone.

On the whole, I RARELY clean anything beyond what a wire brush or flap-disk will accomplish, and my stuff often falls under code and is x-rayed or otherwise NDE'd.

Steve S

Otto Nobedder wrote:Let's put the brake-parts cleaner story in it's place
Steve S

Perfect answer! Thank you!

Should add safer/greener but less cleaning action. As always a compromise.
As its use expanded outside of its original intended use(brake clean)safety became an issue.

Otto Nobedder wrote:Let's put the brake-parts cleaner story in it's place.

For many years, brake cleaner contained methylene chloride (a possible carcinogen and nerve agent on it's own, by the way), with chloroflourocarbons as propellant. These two items BOTH make toxic nerve agents when heated above their flash-points.

There are true stories of welders being killed or seriously injured from using these products to clean parts before welding.

Here are the facts:

MC is extremely volatile, and will evaporate within minutes (even seconds, if you pre-heat a part).
MC is banned for most commercial uses, and no longer occurs in brake cleaner, unless you buy a bulk knock-off counterfeit brand.
CFCs have been banned as propellants in aerosol cans for many years.

Look for the words, "Non-Chlorinated". They appear on every can af brake cleaner you will find outside of a garage sale. These are no more harmful than using acetone.

On the whole, I RARELY clean anything beyond what a wire brush or flap-disk will accomplish, and my stuff often falls under code and is x-rayed or otherwise NDE'd.

Steve S

Very well explained. And yes, make sure it is NON-CHLORINATED. About 10 years ago, my brother and I had a kerosene tube heater heating a small garage. I blasted a part with chlorinated brake cleaner and started welding. I immediately felt like I was suffocating and the smell was awful. We both had to run out of the room and get fresh air.