Hi
sorry if i am writing something wrong, i am an newbie and is just started
the flowmeter/regulater that i got is just the cheap entry model that i got from the gas firm with my bottle and the cost was just around 25-30£, so it is likely not an super good one but it seems to work.
i have now used my 20L bottle and think that it was abit faster then i expected it to and that i may use more gas over time then i have expected it to and is there for looking at options to better save/control the gas to save money in the long run.
To make it short, i have seen that this flowmeter "ELGA Optimator" is claiming that it can save up to 50% gas because when the gas flow is starting then it is not overshorting the gas flow in the start and because of this then saves some gas.
So is it an good idea to change the flowmeter to one like this to save gas over the years or is it just maketing ?
/Thomas
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
Hej Thomas.
I have changed to Elga regulator and I think the cinsumption went down. Difficult to compare when not welding every day and taking purge gas from the same bottle when needed.
However, the better regulators output a more even flow which in time will save you some. If the also reduce the surge flow it will be the greatest saving.
Also if you have experience from mig you will immediately notice the higher consumption of tig.
On tig you have both pre and post flow that will consume a lot if youre doing many short runs. Post flow will be the largest factor but you need quite long time to keep your tungsten clean, usually 4 sec and above.
I have changed to Elga regulator and I think the cinsumption went down. Difficult to compare when not welding every day and taking purge gas from the same bottle when needed.
However, the better regulators output a more even flow which in time will save you some. If the also reduce the surge flow it will be the greatest saving.
Also if you have experience from mig you will immediately notice the higher consumption of tig.
On tig you have both pre and post flow that will consume a lot if youre doing many short runs. Post flow will be the largest factor but you need quite long time to keep your tungsten clean, usually 4 sec and above.
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http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
Hi AndersK
i was planing to buy a better flowmeter then the one i have and was thinking that maybe using around 50-80£ but if the gas saving flow meter is working then i think it is okay to pay some more if they are working and i can have some gas saving in the long run.
I am using the gas saver lens kit and i am having the post flow around 4-5 sec, so i try to limt the gas use to only what is needed.
From google around i can see there is some other flow meters there claim to be saving the gas by better control, so is the one from Elga the best of them or is there another one there is an better investment ?
/Thomas
i was planing to buy a better flowmeter then the one i have and was thinking that maybe using around 50-80£ but if the gas saving flow meter is working then i think it is okay to pay some more if they are working and i can have some gas saving in the long run.
I am using the gas saver lens kit and i am having the post flow around 4-5 sec, so i try to limt the gas use to only what is needed.
From google around i can see there is some other flow meters there claim to be saving the gas by better control, so is the one from Elga the best of them or is there another one there is an better investment ?
/Thomas
Cant say its the best but its still made in Sweden so the next I buy will be an Elga/Gasiq again
The best saving on Argon I did so far was changing supplier. Down by 40%...
Being a small customer to the big names is usually not a good deal.
The best saving on Argon I did so far was changing supplier. Down by 40%...
Being a small customer to the big names is usually not a good deal.
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
- MosquitoMoto
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Tooms -
Nothing to do with flow meters, but a tip given to me by the good people on this forum regarding gas surge. As a newbie, I was running the long length of hose supplied to me standard with my welder and I was wasting a lot of gas through surge. I changed this, and now the hose between my flow meter and my welding machine is short - only around 30 centimetres. This has helped a great deal.
Kym
Nothing to do with flow meters, but a tip given to me by the good people on this forum regarding gas surge. As a newbie, I was running the long length of hose supplied to me standard with my welder and I was wasting a lot of gas through surge. I changed this, and now the hose between my flow meter and my welding machine is short - only around 30 centimetres. This has helped a great deal.
Kym
hi MosquitoMoto
that makes good seens to keep the hose short and i think the hose there is with the machine is 1.2meter, so when i have build my welding cart/trolly then is will make is as short as i can.
Thanks
Thomas
that makes good seens to keep the hose short and i think the hose there is with the machine is 1.2meter, so when i have build my welding cart/trolly then is will make is as short as i can.
Thanks
Thomas
- MosquitoMoto
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That's it. I hadn't even thought about it until someone on this forum gave me the tip. All that gas line pressurising with gas...so much wastage. I moved my welding machine up higher, closer to the gas cylinder head and set up a really short hose length, it is a huge improvement. Yet another thing I've learned from the wise ones around here.Tooms wrote:hi MosquitoMoto
that makes good seens to keep the hose short and i think the hose there is with the machine is 1.2meter, so when i have build my welding cart/trolly then is will make is as short as i can.
Thanks
Thomas
Kym
- Superiorwelding
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Thomas,
Check this thread out before you make any purchases.
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... =Gas+surge
-Jonathan
Check this thread out before you make any purchases.
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... =Gas+surge
-Jonathan
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Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
Hi JohathanSuperiorwelding wrote:Thomas,
Check this thread out before you make any purchases.
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... =Gas+surge
-Jonathan
thanks for the link to that thread and if i am reading it correctly then it is helping to have a better flow meter, move it close to the machine and having an good short gas hose there will not expand.
so overall yes i can save gas but it has an high cost and i may not get the payback from the investment of it.
the thing is that to get the bottle refilled then i have two option, one is that they can deliver here at my house at an high transport cost because it is handled as danages goods and that adds alot to the cost or the other option is that i can transport them my self and by this then save some money on the transport.
so it is an bit of hassle to get the bottle refilled and there for i think that i will try use some money on gas saving gear to keep my gas use as low as i can get it.
i fully understand that i may use more money on this then i ever gets in payback cost on the saved gas, it is just making it easy for me to save gas even at a higher cost.
Thanks
Thomas
- Superiorwelding
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Thomas,
In my opinion, I would shorten your hose length and maybe install the orifice like we did in that thread before you purchase another regulator. I do not feel a more expensive regulator will help save gas. Even with a more expensive regulator you will still have that rush from the extra volume in a longer hose and the pressure build up. In the end you will need to shorten the hose length and add something at the back of the machine to reduce the amount of that instant rush when the valve is opened so you might as well address that now and if the problem still exists see what your next step is.
I know this is really easy and simple but before you do anything I would perform a leak test from the regulator to the end of the torch. I have found that the cheaper regs can leak and more time than not we have a leak somewhere in our system.
-Jonathan
In my opinion, I would shorten your hose length and maybe install the orifice like we did in that thread before you purchase another regulator. I do not feel a more expensive regulator will help save gas. Even with a more expensive regulator you will still have that rush from the extra volume in a longer hose and the pressure build up. In the end you will need to shorten the hose length and add something at the back of the machine to reduce the amount of that instant rush when the valve is opened so you might as well address that now and if the problem still exists see what your next step is.
I know this is really easy and simple but before you do anything I would perform a leak test from the regulator to the end of the torch. I have found that the cheaper regs can leak and more time than not we have a leak somewhere in our system.
-Jonathan
Instagram- @superiorwelding/@learntotig
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
- MosquitoMoto
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I am paranoid about gas wastage as gas is VERY expensive where I am.
I made up the shorter hose, etc, then after it was all set up, performed the soapy water leak test...yes, there was a small leak. Fixed.
I turn off the gas at the bottle the moment I have finished a weld. In fact I'm so careful in always turning off the gas that once or twice I have started a weld...with no gas!
So Tooms, I understand your bid to save gas. It is by far the most expensive ongoing factor of TIG welding.
Kym
I made up the shorter hose, etc, then after it was all set up, performed the soapy water leak test...yes, there was a small leak. Fixed.
I turn off the gas at the bottle the moment I have finished a weld. In fact I'm so careful in always turning off the gas that once or twice I have started a weld...with no gas!
So Tooms, I understand your bid to save gas. It is by far the most expensive ongoing factor of TIG welding.
Kym
Last edited by MosquitoMoto on Thu Aug 27, 2015 3:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Otto Nobedder
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While gas wastage is not an issue where I work, I guess I need to set up a gas-saver system and photo it. In the meantime, I'll explain it.
With a two-component "floating ball" flow-meter, you separate the regulator from the flow-meter. Install the flow-meter directly to the machine input, which puts it as close to the gas solenoid as possible without actually opening the case (which you can also do). Put a gauge on the now-open port of the regulator, and adjust the regulator down to 25-30 psi (on a Harris, for example, the adjusting screw is under the label on the "dome" of the regulator. (Regulators vary in factory preset from 30-75 psi.) Then, use DOT air brake fittings and nylon hose to connect the regulator from the bottle to the new flow-meter location.
This reduces the amount of "surge" gas to the small space between the flow-meter and the solenoid at the machine.
Steve S
With a two-component "floating ball" flow-meter, you separate the regulator from the flow-meter. Install the flow-meter directly to the machine input, which puts it as close to the gas solenoid as possible without actually opening the case (which you can also do). Put a gauge on the now-open port of the regulator, and adjust the regulator down to 25-30 psi (on a Harris, for example, the adjusting screw is under the label on the "dome" of the regulator. (Regulators vary in factory preset from 30-75 psi.) Then, use DOT air brake fittings and nylon hose to connect the regulator from the bottle to the new flow-meter location.
This reduces the amount of "surge" gas to the small space between the flow-meter and the solenoid at the machine.
Steve S
or move the solenoid to the out on flow meter and if don't want to move the stock one add one at flow meter,but will need to add pre flow, I believe the surge helps purge the torch hoses, 6 of one 1/2 doz other?
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Has anyone played with the Harris gas saver regulators?
I've been seeing them on ebay somewhat decently priced, especially if you get one of the lots of 2-4 and break it up after.
That said, I'm probably going to be splitting my reg and flow meter apart and plumbing them together with some small diameter hose, just to see how much that helps, first.
I've been seeing them on ebay somewhat decently priced, especially if you get one of the lots of 2-4 and break it up after.
That said, I'm probably going to be splitting my reg and flow meter apart and plumbing them together with some small diameter hose, just to see how much that helps, first.
-Josh
Greasy fingered tinkerer.
Greasy fingered tinkerer.
A 3/8 dia. hose 3 ft long, contains 0.00159342857097 cubic ft of gas( uncompressed) 0r 627 pedal starts for a cubic foot of gas release, probably a few less due to 25-50 psi of regulator. Some math whiz correction welcomed.
300cubic ft = $100 = .33/cf or .00055(cents USD) per pedal start approx? What am I missing? The cost per big bottles may vary, numbers are examples rounded.
300cubic ft = $100 = .33/cf or .00055(cents USD) per pedal start approx? What am I missing? The cost per big bottles may vary, numbers are examples rounded.
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Miller 250 syncrowave
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and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
I've never measured the pressure in the hose but if it is 50 psi between regulator and the closed solenoid it means you have more than 3 times more gas than the empty volume of the hose.
Still sounds like post flow would be what consumes most at short runs
Still sounds like post flow would be what consumes most at short runs
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
I was just handed a roll of some 1/16" ID hose by my company's engineering department as rejected for a new product, and was pondering using this as shield gas plumbing, but my gut feeling is that 1/16" would restrict gas flow for much beyond the very low amperage and small cup size welding.Oscar wrote:Using a hose with a very small ID also supresses the gas surge at the beginning since there is less volume trapped between the regulator and the solenoid inside the machine
Does anyone have any practical opinion on this, or experience playing with much smaller than normal sizes?
I also have a few shorter lengths of 1/8" and 1/4" ID hose that are also options.
-Josh
Greasy fingered tinkerer.
Greasy fingered tinkerer.
There are as many opinions as there are welders!
Move solenoid or use a second one as close as possible to flowmeter.
or
move flowmeter from regulator close to the(machine) solenoid.
limit the accidental pedal/torch switch starts to check flow.
Precise preflow/postflow control for clean tungsten.
Do the calculations, that burst is not as much as one thinks.
Pre and post settings will get more savings.
Yes a stiff walled hose will help, But small diameter hose affects flow.
Move solenoid or use a second one as close as possible to flowmeter.
or
move flowmeter from regulator close to the(machine) solenoid.
limit the accidental pedal/torch switch starts to check flow.
Precise preflow/postflow control for clean tungsten.
Do the calculations, that burst is not as much as one thinks.
Pre and post settings will get more savings.
Yes a stiff walled hose will help, But small diameter hose affects flow.
Everlast 250EX
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Hey everybody, just wanted to add some information to this very interesting thread.
After reading about this question of excess volume and/or pressure in the feed line and whether or not to move/mount the final stage of the regulator closer to the back of the welder I decided to try to sort out my own problem.
About a year ago I purchased a small DC welder – a Weco Discovery 171T Max. This has been a great little unit I might add: brilliant HF starts, smooth arc, pulse adjustments and never a moment's trouble.
The only fly in the ointment has been a puff of gas every time I trigger the start. Note that I work on small art pieces. How small? Check out the quickie test piece in the photo. I use nails as my metal source and my torch is usually running at between 15 and 25 amps using a number 4 ceramic nose piece (sometimes regular, sometimes gas lens) and I'm real happy with a gas flow of 4 liters per minute (approx. 8.5 cfh). But that initial puff of gas upon triggering the torch has tended to blow my little workpieces right of the table. I've gotten around that by using little weights on the nails, but the extra fuss of placing them on my work prior to initiating a small weld is a pain in the b*tt.
Anyway, inspired by this thread I took a trip over to the local welding supply shop which had sold me the unit. The salesman marched me into the back work area for a discussion with their repair technician. The tech admitted that this condition could sometimes be a problem. He went on to say that they had also encountered the same phenomenon, especially at trade shows where it was sometimes necessary to hide the argon cylinders behind curtains and then run extra long feed tubes to the demo welder units on display. Having said that, he then told me how to fix it. Read on.
In my case, my feed line is a transparent tube with integrated woven reinforcement having an inner diameter of something like 3mm (0.118 inch)… about 1.5 meters long (5 ft). I'm using a flowmeter regulator made by the Swiss company, Gloor (primary stage = 3000 psi, secondary working pressure = 4.5 bar (about 65 psi)).
So anyway, when one stops welding the pressure in the feed line will trickle up to that 4.5 bar pressure regardless of the flowmeter setting. That pressure in the line creates the puff of gas upon triggering the welder. The solution is almost stupidly simple. One fits a small flow-restricting orifice at the end of the feed tube where it meets the back of the welder. In my case I purchased an additional length of tube with an additional screw fitting for my welder. To this screw fitting I added a small, turned brass insert (soldered in) with a tiny hole drilled in it. How small of a hole, you ask? I used a #75 drill to make mine (0.021 inch in diamter = 0.5334 mm). This little restriction orifice prevents the higher back pressure in the feed line from running out through the solenoid valve into the welding torch hose all at once. And believe it or not, even acting as a flow constrictor that small hole allows me to push anything up to almost 9 liters of gas a minute (up to 19 cfh)… good enough to use up to a number 9 ceramic. End result: Puff of gas all gone! I can now light up on my tiny nails with only a tiny, discrete 'snap' as the arc initiates. The nails don't move a hair. And the flowmeter at the regulator still indicates the gas flow as expected.
You might have to experiment a bit with hole sizes for your own combination of regulator pressure and feed lines, but this might be really useful for those of you with similarly sensitive welding needs.
After reading about this question of excess volume and/or pressure in the feed line and whether or not to move/mount the final stage of the regulator closer to the back of the welder I decided to try to sort out my own problem.
About a year ago I purchased a small DC welder – a Weco Discovery 171T Max. This has been a great little unit I might add: brilliant HF starts, smooth arc, pulse adjustments and never a moment's trouble.
- Weco Discovery 171T-Max.jpg (79.02 KiB) Viewed 1965 times
- nail welds.jpg (66.04 KiB) Viewed 1965 times
In my case, my feed line is a transparent tube with integrated woven reinforcement having an inner diameter of something like 3mm (0.118 inch)… about 1.5 meters long (5 ft). I'm using a flowmeter regulator made by the Swiss company, Gloor (primary stage = 3000 psi, secondary working pressure = 4.5 bar (about 65 psi)).
- Gloor regulator.jpg (30.83 KiB) Viewed 1965 times
You might have to experiment a bit with hole sizes for your own combination of regulator pressure and feed lines, but this might be really useful for those of you with similarly sensitive welding needs.
If one can live with the flow restriction for limited applications,"Why not move the flow restricter to the torch Handle?".You might have to experiment a bit with hole sizes for your own combination of regulator pressure and feed lines, but this might be really useful for those of you with similarly sensitive welding needs.
Everlast 250EX
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
- Braehill
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They have had that option for years, it's called a valve torch. This would be the most effective way to save gas, but having done the bulk of my welding with a scratch start rig, I can say it's not the most convenient. Anybody who has ever used one can attest to the fact that there still is a gas rush with them also, it's just very short lived.
Just a little known factoid, there's also a small benefit to having your gas go through an orifice in the system where upon exit of the orifice it will drop in temperature at the pressure drop. It's called the Jules-Thompson effect and it's used quite often in air separation plants to make refrigerated liquids.
Len
Just a little known factoid, there's also a small benefit to having your gas go through an orifice in the system where upon exit of the orifice it will drop in temperature at the pressure drop. It's called the Jules-Thompson effect and it's used quite often in air separation plants to make refrigerated liquids.
Len
Last edited by Braehill on Sun Oct 04, 2015 1:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Now go melt something.
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Len
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Len
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