Welding Tips and Tricks

I have some rocker arm stands on a race engine that need welded. The manufacturer says they are made of 35S20 steel. I am trying to figure out the proper filler rod to use. Any ideas?

....and a quick google search sez 'free machining'; which normally implies 'not weldable' due to
sulfur or lead added for machinability......kinda of red flag
and gives equivalent of US 1140

Considering the application I would replace them. Nothing like losing a valve train at 9700 rpms, then losing pistons and bending rods over a welded part that broke.

Its a direct hardened steel so if you do weld it it would need to be annealed and hardened. Another issue will be getting is clean enough to weld, and most stands are coated as well...

Is this a Jesel or T&D stand? Where and why did it crack or need repair? I damaged a Jesel stand a few years ago, simply bought a new one.

Its a Jesel stand. The intake stands are stand alone stands where the exhaust is a bar that holds all 8. The intake stands need to be welded to the exhaust for stability.

Friend of mine is a engine builder and chassis builder, open wheel was his specialty is now retired from racing. When still building he has done stock cars, drag cars, and a few street rods(if they have the cash to afford it). he has built some stock car motors and drag motors with similar setups as yours. I was not familiar with that design of rocker setup and inquired about it. I believe he said was common on Yates c3 heads and he mentioned a few others. Some of the designs he said you had a set for each cylinder so would wind up with 8 sets, and other design you had 2 sets one for each head. He said to make sure and mark each set for there location. since each one gets aligned for that spot. As for welding he has seen them braised using SIB or aluminum bronze A2 by others. He welded them with ER70-S2 and said you might find it easier to use ER70-S6 Depending on your TIG experience. He never inquired with Jesel as for what they suggested but said it welded easy and that the company should have a suggestion if you inquire about it. Said to keep heat input to a minimum with close arc length. take your time and allow it to cool instead of doing all them at once. He mentioned making shims for them also otherwise angle of contact could be off on pushrods and make sure pushrod length is correct. Apparently they can be ran without welding them but gives it more support if they are welded. On a sidenote he wasn't a fan of the design, only used it when customer wanted this setup.

Edited later when kids where asleep and not bothering me. Errrrrrr. Sorry