Hey fellas
I've got to weld a nipple, as it were, 6061 t6 tube to some 5xxx (pretty sure it's 5052) plate.
Wall thicknesses on each are similar, .125 give or take a few thousandths.
I want suggestions on filler wire, either 5356 or 4043, those are what I have, so it'll have to be one or the other. I have 1/8 3/32 and 1/16 in both, so I'm good there supply wise.
This joint will have no structural stress, only has to be water tight at atmospheric pressure, and it's open on the top end (think stubout for a sink tailpiece)
All suggestions and opinions appreciated.
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newschoppafowah
- newschoppafowah
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Sent from an earthen ditch outside Needles, CA using an awful lot of low voltage single strand wire.
It's a matter of flour and water and then there's the seasonings, which is a matter of salt and so forth and then you h-we interrupt this for the announc
It's a matter of flour and water and then there's the seasonings, which is a matter of salt and so forth and then you h-we interrupt this for the announc
The 5356 will give a stronger joint but could be more prone to cracking if this will vibrate or have anything hanging off the nipple. Truly either filler could be used in a not critical app. So I'm assuming it will be basically a fillet weld around the nipple?
Personally I'd use 5356....
Personally I'd use 5356....
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
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ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
Check out this chart. It is extremelly helpful
http://www.alcotec.com/us/en/support/up ... -Chart.pdf
http://www.alcotec.com/us/en/support/up ... -Chart.pdf
- Otto Nobedder
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For the purpose, I'd normally say use 4043 and get it done,
BUT, with those alloys, I'd go 5356. It's not really that different to weld, and better matches the alloys you're welding. Less chance of shrinkage stress and possible cracks.
Steve S
BUT, with those alloys, I'd go 5356. It's not really that different to weld, and better matches the alloys you're welding. Less chance of shrinkage stress and possible cracks.
Steve S
I agree with Steve and the other suggestions as well. I can't say I have ever had a weld failure using either rod but I find 5356 more forgiving over a heap of applications I have subjected it to over the years. Both are going to be stronger than the heat zone of the parent metal. 4043 seems to weld a little neater and prettier.
Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
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Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
- Otto Nobedder
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I tossed half a 10# box of 1/8" Alcotec 5356, and made our buyer go get me a box of Oxford.GreinTime wrote:I hate the box of AlcoTec 5356 I have. I have never had any sort of luck getting it to weld like I wanted it to.
I was welding 4G on 1/2" 6061. It was going well with the Oxford, but I ran out, and grabbed the Alcotec. After the third 3rd degree burn (from meteorites, as TamJeff calls them!) I launched them into the dumpster with gusto and profane language, and refused to proceed.
Steve S
- Superiorwelding
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To play devils advocate, I use all Alcotec and have never had a problem and prefer them actually. Although I really only use Alcotec, Harris and another I can't think of.
So why is Alcotec "bad" in your opinion?
-Jonathan
So why is Alcotec "bad" in your opinion?
-Jonathan
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Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
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- Braehill
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I actually gave Sam those rods and I retrieved them from the dumpster when they closed down a maintainence shop at the other plant I work at. I never seem to have much problem with them because I keep reminding myself that they're free, makes them flow like butter.
A couple years ago we had a company come in and change out a heat exchanger and they were welding Sch. 160 10" pipe with a 45* bevel, the weld face is about 1 1/2" wide. In a weeks time we went through about 50# of that same exact rod and they had zero complaints.
I've never paid much attention to brands because I'm not paying the bill for one and I've never had a problem that I thought I could contribute to the filler rod. It's usually me that's causing my problem's, can't see, dipping the tungsten, shaking like a dog shitting razor blades and the like. You can get bad batches of anything I guess.
Len
A couple years ago we had a company come in and change out a heat exchanger and they were welding Sch. 160 10" pipe with a 45* bevel, the weld face is about 1 1/2" wide. In a weeks time we went through about 50# of that same exact rod and they had zero complaints.
I've never paid much attention to brands because I'm not paying the bill for one and I've never had a problem that I thought I could contribute to the filler rod. It's usually me that's causing my problem's, can't see, dipping the tungsten, shaking like a dog shitting razor blades and the like. You can get bad batches of anything I guess.
Len
Now go melt something.
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Len
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
Same here, pretty much. Seems that every time that there was a brand switch, there was also some other possible contributing factor to consider, such as a mixed run of base metal. It's so hard to tell these days with so much of our supplies being imported. In the case with bendable aluminum pipe, pieces from one batch to the next can be annealed differently, or have a different annealed shelf life on them, perhaps, even though the alloy designation remains constant. I often have to relieve over, and under bends by hand. Some I can feel work harden noticeably quicker, while some bend (butter pipe) like a over boiled piece of spaghetti. I do notice them welding differently from one piece to the next if the bend quality is different, especially vertical up, or overhead.Braehill wrote:I've never paid much attention to brands because I'm not paying the bill for one and I've never had a problem that I thought I could contribute to the filler rod. It's usually me that's causing my problem's, can't see, dipping the tungsten, shaking like a dog shitting razor blades and the like. You can get bad batches of anything I guess.
Len
Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
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- Otto Nobedder
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The trouble I had with the Alcotec may have been batch-specific, as nothing else really makes sense. I was continuing the same joint on the same material with the same machine and the same settings and technique.
I had the SW250DX wide open (310A, balance on 8) and pulsing with the pedal, as this was a root pass and the heat getting ahead of the arc would melt the rod before before I could dab if I kept the current continuous.
With the Alcotec, I could not get a rythem going that would get the rod in the puddle every time, as though the melting point were 100* lower, and I would have drip-offs to dodge.
This is the only batch of Alcotec I've ever used, so I have no basis for copmarison between batches.
Steve S
I had the SW250DX wide open (310A, balance on 8) and pulsing with the pedal, as this was a root pass and the heat getting ahead of the arc would melt the rod before before I could dab if I kept the current continuous.
With the Alcotec, I could not get a rythem going that would get the rod in the puddle every time, as though the melting point were 100* lower, and I would have drip-offs to dodge.
This is the only batch of Alcotec I've ever used, so I have no basis for copmarison between batches.
Steve S
newschoppafowah
- newschoppafowah
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Thanks for the help guys.
It didn't come out pretty but it's square and square is enough for this job.
Here's a pic.
Thanks again.
It didn't come out pretty but it's square and square is enough for this job.
Here's a pic.
Thanks again.
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Sent from an earthen ditch outside Needles, CA using an awful lot of low voltage single strand wire.
It's a matter of flour and water and then there's the seasonings, which is a matter of salt and so forth and then you h-we interrupt this for the announc
It's a matter of flour and water and then there's the seasonings, which is a matter of salt and so forth and then you h-we interrupt this for the announc
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