Welding Tips and Tricks

I'm having a pretty frustrating relationship with my Lincoln Precision Tig 225. When welding mild steel my puddle does some very odd things. The puddle gets what I would call a red eye or dot that jumps around the puddle. It's hard to tell but it looks like it may be caused by an off shoot arc from the side of the electrode. When I add filler rod the dot moves around and alters the edge of the puddle making for some ugly welds. Some times the dot isn't there and the welds come out nice. This is driving me crazy because I have tried all different types, sizes and brands of tungsten (haven't tried pure). Different combinations of cup sizes and stick out and different torches with gas lenses. Several different bottles of Argon and every flow rate from almost nothing to way too much. Several different ground types. Many different pieces of mild steel ie. tube, plate and sheet cleaned in every way I can think of, to remove scale. I have tried grinding the electrode with every imaginable abrasive tool fine to course and even polished a few to the suggested shapes. I've tried all sizes of ers70-6 filler from several manufacturers. It happens at all amperage ranges. When it goes good the welds come out nice and shiny with consistent beads. But the majority of the time the puddle/arc issue ruins the weld. I didn't list all details because I've tried so many things. There has to be something simple I'm over looking.

Post pics will help the TIG wizards we have here diagnosis your problems. Don't brush the weld before taking a pic either, take pic just like it is when you get done welding. on pic you put up list details.

First thing that comes to my mind as for stuff floating on puddle is Silicon from the -6 filler. That are contaminants floating up. Do you remove mill scale and not just polish it, is the metal bright shiny metal before welding, wipe materials down with acetone.

Don't try pure for the record.

Does it do it with aluminum?

Does it do it on DCEP? And for the love of God, unless you have a 5/32 tungsten please don't go over 60 amps or so, or I would feel terrible that you just grenaded a torch

Seriously though, before you call it an issue with the machine, rule the machine out.

Like dirtmidget33 said, more than likely what you are seeing is the Silicon fluxing contaminants up to the surface. Try ER70S2. If that doesn't work, try ER309 stainless rod. If it welds okay with 309, you have shitty steel, and it will continue to run like shit.

Welcome to the forum Chris.

GreinTime wrote:Like dirtmidget33 said, more than likely what you are seeing is the Silicon fluxing contaminants up to the surface. Try ER70S2. If that doesn't work, try ER309 stainless rod. If it welds okay with 309, you have shitty steel, and it will continue to run like shit.

this.

I'm removing all scaling and surface contamination down to shiny metal. I've used several different types of abrasives to make sure I'm not contaminating the metal. This is happening on different mild steels from completely unrelated projects. I though it was the coming from the rod myself but the way it reacts to me adding the rod to the puddle and the way it alters the puddle edge I'm not sure that's it. When I say altering the puddles edge, I mean it looks like I am physically moving the torch in jerking motions at strange angles even though I'm actually moving in a straight line. I wish I could video it. I really don't want to blame the machine but when working on a piece that was cleaned the same in areas requiring welds in different areas, one out of five weld will turn out beautiful. The other welds I'm fighting the dancing puddle which is very distracting watching it jump out every time I add filler. Is there a chance the welder is stuck in a wrong frequency or not fully transitioning out of micro start? The arc is insanely smooth and quiet.

Nah man, the arc should be smooth and quiet in DC if all is going according to plan. Typically it'll get louder as you move away from the piece, as the Open Circuit Voltage goes up and it strains to jump the arc gap. Also, since there is no half wave transition on either DCEP or DCEN, there is no "frequency" to change that would have any effect on the act of welding. One thing I have seen is that poor ground can cause issues like that, and more prevalently magnetic fields can as well. If you are using MagClamps or using magnets to position pieces the magnetic field can have some wicked strange effects on weld puddle characteristics.

if puddle is moving to one side check your torch angle. If you change angle it will push puddle to one side of other. Just light up on a piece and don't advance the puddle just change angle of torch you will see puddle flow it. Hard to offer suggestions with what we heard so far or seen. If arc is stable and smooth then it is not machine

I was going to go into that, but had a customer walk in at work so I just submitted what I had lol

GreinTime wrote:I was going to go into that, but had a customer walk in at work so I just submitted what I had lol

Beat you to it haha

dirtmidget33 wrote:if puddle is moving to one side check your torch angle. If you change angle it will push puddle to one side of other. Just light up on a piece and don't advance the puddle just change angle of torch you will see puddle flow it. Hard to offer suggestions with what we heard so far or seen. If arc is stable and smooth then it is not machine

Torch angle and arc length are all at the normal suggested and everything in between has been tried. Recently I welded at 180amps on axle tubes and brackets and the welds came out nice and no puddle issues. On the same brackets to brace tubes at 80amps the puddle issue showed up. What should the tungsten color be in relation to gas flow? What will be the signs of too much gas on the work piece? The main thing to keep in mind what appears to be happening is an offshoot arc swinging around the puddle when filler rod is added. When I add the rod I'm not jabbing it in, it goes to the edge and enters with the little low snap sound. I realize trouble shooting on a forum without seeing the problem is difficult. I would attach photos but the last thing I need is another account and logins.

The only time I have issues when adding filler like that is when I am in fact welding too low, or using too big of a filler rod for the size of the puddle/amperage. What thicknesses are you having issues with? You really shouldn't be welding the same pieces at 80 if you can weld them successfully at 180.

Ok so when welding at lower amps the arc is literally jumping around if that is the case it is possible the HF is on and trying to reestablish an arc it thinks is out. At higher amps this might not be noticeable. Precision TIG 225 does has a spark gap. I would check, clean it, and adjust it. The manual tells you how to do it. It involves opening case if you don't feel comfortable doing this take it to a dealer they can check it for you. They won't charge much to check and adjust these.

manuals are online if bought used here is a link to a 225. Double check to make sure manual is for your model and serial number might be other manuals out there for them
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source= ... 4F-OqrFSDQ

Just for S's/G's bump the peddle for some preflow before you start welding.
And too much gas will practically give the same look as not enough gas.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

dirtmidget33 wrote:Ok so when welding at lower amps the arc is literally jumping around if that is the case it is possible the HF is on and trying to reestablish an arc it thinks is out. At higher amps this might not be noticeable. Precision TIG 225 does has a spark gap. I would check, clean it, and adjust it. The manual tells you how to do it. It involves opening case if you don't feel comfortable doing this take it to a dealer they can check it for you. They won't charge much to check and adjust these.

This^, or you could be dipping the tungsten and not know it, both make a "snap" sound, but are distinguishable as different. How are you sharpening your tungsten? I'd venture a guess that it's to a needle.

dirtmidget33 wrote:Ok so when welding at lower amps the arc is literally jumping around if that is the case it is possible the HF is on and trying to reestablish an arc it thinks is out. At higher amps this might not be noticeable. Precision TIG 225 does has a spark gap. I would check, clean it, and adjust it. The manual tells you how to do it. It involves opening case if you don't feel comfortable doing this take it to a dealer they can check it for you. They won't charge much to check and adjust these.

This^, or you could be dipping the tungsten and not know it, both make a "snap" sound, but are distinguishable as different. How are you sharpening your tungsten? I'd venture a guess that it's to a needle.

GreinTime wrote:The only time I have issues when adding filler like that is when I am in fact welding too low, or using too big of a filler rod for the size of the puddle/amperage. What thicknesses are you having issues with? You really shouldn't be welding the same pieces at 80 if you can weld them successfully at 180.

I was using 1/8 rod to weld 1/4 inch plate to 1/4 inch tubes and 1/16 rod to weld 1/4 inch plate to .120 wall tubing in a butt weld.

dirtmidget33 wrote:Ok so when welding at lower amps the arc is literally jumping around if that is the case it is possible the HF is on and trying to reestablish an arc it thinks is out. At higher amps this might not be noticeable. Precision TIG 225 does has a spark gap. I would check, clean it, and adjust it. The manual tells you how to do it. It involves opening case if you don't feel comfortable doing this take it to a dealer they can check it for you. They won't charge much to check and adjust these.

It could just be that your tungsten and or tip geometry is not correct for a certain amperage range. Just because you have a good stable arc at 180A with (for example) a 1/8" tungsten with a short taper and a flat at the tip doesn't mean that it will be able to establish the same exact arc stability at a much lower amperage setting. Why would it? Everything needs to be cater'd to the exact situation at hand, nothing more, nothing less.

Oscar wrote:
It could just be that your tungsten and or tip geometry is not correct for a certain amperage range. Just because you have a good stable arc at 180A with (for example) a 1/8" tungsten with a short taper and a flat at the tip doesn't mean that it will be able to establish the same exact arc stability at a much lower amperage setting. Why would it? Everything needs to be catered to the exact situation at hand, nothing more, nothing less.

Yes if using a tungsten out of or at the edges of its amp range it will be unstable. The big problem with this whole deal is o.p. never gave a FULL list of settings he is using.

dirtmidget33 wrote:

Oscar wrote:
It could just be that your tungsten and or tip geometry is not correct for a certain amperage range. Just because you have a good stable arc at 180A with (for example) a 1/8" tungsten with a short taper and a flat at the tip doesn't mean that it will be able to establish the same exact arc stability at a much lower amperage setting. Why would it? Everything needs to be catered to the exact situation at hand, nothing more, nothing less.

Yes if using a tungsten out of or at the edges of its amp range it will be unstable. The big problem with this whole deal is o.p. never gave a FULL list of settings he is using.

Thank you for all of your input, your time is much appreciated.

I didn't give a FULL list of the settings because I have tried everything as was stated in the original posting. No matter what web site, forum, how to article, manual or book that is referenced, the same troubleshooting ideas are given out. I'm using the proper size tungsten in it's recommended amperage range and have tried different tip geometry needle sharp, pencil, short taper with a flat tip to and without. I was really looking for someone that has seen this sort of problem or had ideas out of the norms with tig welding. I don't want to blame the welder because there are so very few complaints about these machines other than brand loyalty, but at some point I may have to. I think I'm at the point of frustration saturation with this. Lol

Chris,
You can do a simple test to rule out all the issues that were discussed with the machine itself. Hook your argon hose up directly to the regulator to rule out the gas solenoid, it will waste a little Argon but no biggy. Set the machine to local control not remote, and DCEN at around 130 amps for a 3/32 tungsten. Shut off your high frequency and use a scratch start. If the problem still exists I would say you either have a leak in your gas system or just bad Argon, it happens.

Let us know your findings.

Len