Hi. Brand new member here! I've been welding for a long time and just love Tig welding.
Years ago, I purchased a brand new Lincoln Square Wave Tig 355. I have build many auto roll cages with it and a lot of Aluminum projects as well.
I purchased this model after watching a pretty young lady welding razor blades at the Lincoln exhibit . This was at the Street Rod Nationals in Louisville, Ky.
Never had a problem until this weekend.
Here's the problem...... once the power is turned on, it works, kinda. If however, I wait until the top "gas / water" LED goes off (and I hear a relay drop out), the welder won't restart. I have to turn the power off. Even this is not correct, since the machine once started as described as above, wont shut off!
The electrode arcs without using the foot control.
At first, I suspected the foot control, but the same thing happens with my hand control.
Any ideas before I call Lincoln next week??
Thanks for reading!
ron
In the woods of North Florida
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
Not familiar with your machine but had something like that happen on a Miller. One time the work was hooked up to the water cooler (not me) rather than the work lug with an adaptor. The water cooler was live every time I hit the torch and wasn't giving me an arc half of the time. Sometimes worked, sometimes not.
Another issue I once had was my "spark gap". I've got an older Miller 250DX and it sometimes needs to be adjusted. Simple little pull down door and very easy to adjust like a set of points on a car @ 0.012" If it's not set properly tig will only work in lift arc no matter what mode the machine is set for.
Cleaning the inside of the machine sometimes helps too. If you get enough dust, dirt and crud in there it could keep you from making contacts.
Hope that helps. THANKS Jack
Another issue I once had was my "spark gap". I've got an older Miller 250DX and it sometimes needs to be adjusted. Simple little pull down door and very easy to adjust like a set of points on a car @ 0.012" If it's not set properly tig will only work in lift arc no matter what mode the machine is set for.
Cleaning the inside of the machine sometimes helps too. If you get enough dust, dirt and crud in there it could keep you from making contacts.
Hope that helps. THANKS Jack
Jack. THANK you so much for that answer! I continued playing with the welder and forgot completely about the 'spark gap' until I was dusting the unit down a few minutes ago.Jacked800 wrote:Not familiar with your machine but had something like that happen on a Miller. One time the work was hooked up to the water cooler (not me) rather than the work lug with an adaptor. The water cooler was live every time I hit the torch and wasn't giving me an arc half of the time. Sometimes worked, sometimes not.
Another issue I once had was my "spark gap". I've got an older Miller 250DX and it sometimes needs to be adjusted. Simple little pull down door and very easy to adjust like a set of points on a car @ 0.012" If it's not set properly tig will only work in lift arc no matter what mode the machine is set for.
Cleaning the inside of the machine sometimes helps too. If you get enough dust, dirt and crud in there it could keep you from making contacts.
Hope that helps. THANKS Jack
This welder is my 'baby' since I'm retired and couldn't afford anything close to it. It's not something that can be brought to the local dealer for service! (without a good trailer)!
Although my shop is dry (for Florida), I notice dust/slight mildew everywhere. I found that tapping on the front panel when I hear the relays drop out 'improves' things. I have no doubt it's a dirty relay contact. The more I use it, it seems to improve. I did some Alum welding about 6 months ago just to keep in practice. Just this weekend I noticed this problem on DC. I'm a retired EE and would have no problem troubleshooting to a component level. I've only removed the left side cover so far. All the 'good' electronics are enclosed in a sub-assembly.
Like body parts, "if you don't use 'em, you lose 'em". ha ha
I hope this was an OK post, since this is my first response here. BTW, I have a Lincoln SP-250 which is fantastic!
Thanks again!
ron
weldergust
- weldergust
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Joined:Sat May 23, 2015 10:09 pm
Ron was this problem ever solved? Now my Lincoln 355 is doing the same exact thing.n4ue wrote:Hi. Brand new member here! I've been welding for a long time and just love Tig welding.
Years ago, I purchased a brand new Lincoln Square Wave Tig 355. I have build many auto roll cages with it and a lot of Aluminum projects as well.
I purchased this model after watching a pretty young lady welding razor blades at the Lincoln exhibit . This was at the Street Rod Nationals in Louisville, Ky.
Never had a problem until this weekend.
Here's the problem...... once the power is turned on, it works, kinda. If however, I wait until the top "gas / water" LED goes off (and I hear a relay drop out), the welder won't restart. I have to turn the power off. Even this is not correct, since the machine once started as described as above, wont shut off!
The electrode arcs without using the foot control.
At first, I suspected the foot control, but the same thing happens with my hand control.
Any ideas before I call Lincoln next week??
Thanks for reading!
ron
In the woods of North Florida
Thank you
WelderGust
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