Welding Tips and Tricks

In one of Jody's recent videos, he is using a simple on/off torch switch in conjunction with the slope settings on the machine to control the heat. Would this system be any better or worse than using a hand amperage control in situations where you can't use a foot pedal?

When I had my Diversion 180, it had a thumb wheel amperage control on the torch. I tried it, but found that it made me move the torch around too much. This was likely due to my inexperience, but after watching the video the on/off switch looks like a good idea.

Does anyone have any thoughts or recommendations on this?

Thanks.

I had a scenario a couple of months back where a buddy had some of his exhaust manifold bolts broken off in the block. They were gonna charge some rediculous amount of money to remove em so I told him to bring the truck by and I would get em out. Riding the slope with the switch was the best way to do this as I was under the truck wrapped around the wheel hub working overhead. Pulse settings as well as riding the slope kept me from getting a hot globe of metal in my lap.

I also do it alot when I notice I'm about to burn through. I don't have a foot pedal yet so I gotta guess at the right heat. Usually I'm pretty close but sometimes it's alot harder to guess like when working with thicker to thinner joints. When I move to the thinner stuff I'll let off the switch and ride the slope to prevent burn back.

450dualsport wrote:In one of Jody's recent videos, he is using a simple on/off torch switch in conjunction with the slope settings on the machine to control the heat. Would this system be any better or worse than using a hand amperage control in situations where you can't use a foot pedal?

When I had my Diversion 180, it had a thumb wheel amperage control on the torch. I tried it, but found that it made me move the torch around too much. This was likely due to my inexperience, but after watching the video the on/off switch looks like a good idea.

Does anyone have any thoughts or recommendations on this?

Thanks.

It's more what you're comfortable with, but if you dig in TamJeffs posts, he does anodized aluminum using techniques that aren't supposed to work. Think about that for a minute, before you try them.

You might find the following 2 videos of interest. They're from CK Worldwide. (I have no connection to CK Worldwide and am not endorsing or recommending their products in any way.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZkVKrqTEbQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKoMLM7hFRE

The movement of the torch that you describe has been described to me by a couple of experienced welders, so don't blame yourself too much. The 2 videos will be a help, I think. I have just ordered a track-wheel remote from CK Worldwide, but before doing so, I contacted them to ask some questions, and one of their experienced welders replied that he personsally prefers a foot pedal and only uses a hand-operated remote when doing certain out-of-position work where a foot pedal would be impracticable. As usual it comes down to personal choice, but as one of the videos shows, the design of at least some of these remotes will always cause you to move the torch when operating the control. I have no idea how I'll take to the track-wheel remote, which leads on to my own request for advice on this topic:

I have a TIG torch spring-loaded switch cover as shown here: https://db.tt/cIRGAiW6 and it looks very much like the one Jody was using. It comes without a microswitch and I am getting nowhere (in the UK and on the Internet) trying to find the right switch to fit it. The "button" needs to be on the end of the switch and not, as one usually finds, on the side. I'd be most grateful for any details on the microswitch for this type of cover?

Thanks

Martin

I once used a torch with a rotating amp control & hated it ! maybe with practice you get used to them - on the occasions a pedal can't be used I would sooner use pulse or 4T settings rather than a thumb wheel though others do use them successfully - but as sliding potentiometers were common place I'm tempted to try adapting one as a clip on torch option as a fall back option.

The torch switch you pictured is available complete from Shop River & many others on Ebay ( cost around £3 )

Do you mean this type eg http://bit.ly/13pWJPr ? I didn't consider this type suitable because it lacks the contoured base to fit snugly around the diameter of the handle.

Could you possibly send a link to the type in question?

Many thanks

Martin

Otto Nobedder wrote:It's more what you're comfortable with, but if you dig in TamJeffs posts, he does anodized aluminum using techniques that aren't supposed to work. Think about that for a minute, before you try them.

Thanks. I will check out those posts. You have got me curious.....

A couple of months ago I had to weld a small aluminum bracket on to the railing of my boat. It was awkward to say the least. I had to straddle the railing and put the foot pedal down in the battery box where I could just reach it. At that point I was thinking that I either need some sort of torch control or yoga lessons.

I looked at the CK videos and the wheel looks interesting since you can position it where you want on the handle.

I would much rather weld with the foot pedal, and rarely need to weld out of postion. It would be nice to have something else in the tool box for those situations.

@ Martin

Try item
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TORCH-SWITCH- ... 19c825f9ab

This is the switch common to most of the generic Chinese plasma cutters & Tig welders - it's usually only cable tied on but stays put quite well on a variety of torches - & you can't go wrong with Shop River - their fast & efficient seller.

Did see one with with a "saddle" to suit round torch handle - don't know the seller - but have a look at item

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIG-Welding-T ... 43bbc370d2

If it's just a micro switch you need I'd be pretty sure that either RS Components or Maplin Electronics will have a suitable replacement - if you have no luck post a picture of the old one & see what I can find.

I really appreciate your help. You know, I will get those swiches and at least see if I can possibly transfer the microswitch to the slim, contoured switch cover that I have.

Following on from your final idea, I did get a tiny cylindrical microswitch and made a small bracket to hold it in place but it turned out to sit a mm or so too high. A flat one would do the trick. I did look at Maplin but didn't think of RS, so thanks for that bright suggestion.

Definitely making progress, thanks to your kind help ( 2 heads better than one).

Martin

@martin

Hope you get it sorted - sometimes it takes a fresh look or give up /have beer / try again tomorrow ! oh & we both forgot to mention Farnell - they list something like 10,000 switches !

The thing is none of these components are generally made to fit one application - it's not economic - so you just have to figure out where else it could be used ! I've even recycled them from old keyboards or computer boards in the past.

Good luck.

Many thanks. If I sort it out such that it would be of interest to anyone else, I'll post back.

Thanks again for your kind help and advice.

Martin

martinr wrote:Many thanks. If I sort it out such that it would be of interest to anyone else, I'll post back.

Thanks again for your kind help and advice.

Martin

I think you are probably sorted but I got my tig torch switches from Amazon
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_nos ... h%20swirch

I mounted mine with cable ties so I can slide the switch around the torch.

All those mementary switches you guys list sure are bulkey to say the least, and the button is really not where I would want it. I am making a momentary torch control using a very small button that are used on circut boards I got from my Father in law who is an EE. I am going to make some sort of mold for the button and the wire lead and "pot" the whole thing. Then use Mcmaster verlcro cable ties. So far I have $30.00 US into this. I had to buy a 14 pin amphol connector. I had some 18/3 shielded hanging around. I will start a new post when I am done and post pics. I have a Dynasty 300DX. Again, I am talking momentary and not and amp control set up. Talk about really bulky, like a farm tractor wheel on top of the torch.

chriso wrote:

martinr wrote:Many thanks. If I sort it out such that it would be of interest to anyone else, I'll post back.

Thanks again for your kind help and advice.

Martin

I think you are probably sorted but I got my tig torch switches from Amazon
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_nos ... h%20swirch

I mounted mine with cable ties so I can slide the switch around the torch.

Thanks but those flat-bottomed ones are too bulky for my slim-handled torch. In fact, I find them uncomfortably bulky even on the WP26 style torch, which, to me feels like trying to weld with a hammer. That's why I like the style at https://db.tt/cIRGAiW6 . Whilst I'd still need to use cable ties or Velcro, these ties would be loose enough to allow easy rotation and fore-and-aft adjustment, whereas even if the flat-bottomed ones were slimmer, they'd still need to be lashed tight enough to prevent twisting, which could inhibit adjustment for comfort, hand swapping etc. Makes you wonder if some of these torch designers have ever had a go at TIG welding.

Martin

I decided have a go and fit a microswitch to my spring-loaded cover. Results in the 4 photos. I set the switch into a couple of tiny balls of epoxy putty and allowed it to harden before progressing, the reason being that without a bed of moulded epoxy, when I tightened down the 2 white cable ties, there would be a bending moment on the 2 halves of the microswitch because of the central aluminium band.












I got the switch at a local shop but I'm confident the switch is this one: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/black-push-to ... itch-nd91y

Martin

Glad to see you got it sorted Martin - have used that switch before - though it's not a true "mico switch" in the sense I'm familiar with - but so long as it works that's all that matters - there is at least one torch switch on Ebay from a low cost supplier that looks identical to yours if that does'nt work long term.

noddybrian wrote:Glad to see you got it sorted Martin - have used that switch before - though it's not a true "mico switch" in the sense I'm familiar with - but so long as it works that's all that matters - there is at least one torch switch on Ebay from a low cost supplier that looks identical to yours if that does'nt work long term.

Many thanks and thanks also for your guidance and advice.

By the way, the switch cover you've seen on Ebay, does it contain a switch? If so, could you send me a link, please; all the ones I've seen (identical to mine) don't have the switch, which seems a bit odd and was the reason I've had all this faffing around. Still, it's good to have a challenge and a reason to converse with helpful, like-minded people on this forum. And thanks, too, for putting me right on the term 'microswitch'.

Martin

Well now I read the item properly I think your right - it has no supplied switch which is really odd ! - what I believe is the correct style switch - though you would need to check the size as there are several that look the same is

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/low-cost-mini ... ever-gw69a

If you look at the flat style switch from shop river - item

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TORCH-SWITCH- ... 19c825f9ab

you can see it quite clearly ( same switch is also in most Binzel style mig torches ) the difference is you have a simple "push to make " switch & it won't switch "cleanly" depending on the speed & pressure applied to it whereas the micro switch does no matter how hard / fast you operate it as the switching action comes from a sprung action going " over center " inside.

the switch you have may well perform adequately for you & is cheap to change if need be - but the "micro switch " style is the best solution - either way you got it done & shared with others your solution who may have had a similar problem so everyone wins.

noddybrian wrote:Well now I read the item properly I think your right - it has no supplied switch which is really odd ! - what I believe is the correct style switch - though you would need to check the size as there are several that look the same is

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/low-cost-mini ... ever-gw69a

If you look at the flat style switch from shop river - item

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TORCH-SWITCH- ... 19c825f9ab

you can see it quite clearly ( same switch is also in most Binzel style mig torches ) the difference is you have a simple "push to make " switch & it won't switch "cleanly" depending on the speed & pressure applied to it whereas the micro switch does no matter how hard / fast you operate it as the switching action comes from a sprung action going " over center " inside.

the switch you have may well perform adequately for you & is cheap to change if need be - but the "micro switch " style is the best solution - either way you got it done & shared with others your solution who may have had a similar problem so everyone wins.

I hadn't given any conscious thought to clean switching, though I ran very rough-and-ready continuity checks when slowly pressing the lever down. For a proper test I'd need to monitor the trace of the voltage across the contacts with my oscilloscope when connected to the machine. Nevertheless, there is no over-centre 'click' with the switch I have. Anyway, I have two of those MIG type switches on order and will swap the microswitch into my switch cover provided it isn't too wide.

Many thanks for bringing that important factor to my attention.

Martin

No problem Martin - glad to help where I can or have experience - I think that is likely the micro switch you want but only you have the dimensions of the plastic cover - there are smaller versions than that - all the usual guys list them - Maplin / RS components / Farnel - the quality of switching may not effect that machine or how you use it - but if you have 4T selected & get "switch bounce" it's going to confuse you as well as the Tig set ! Good luck with your future projects.

From memory they (I think) are V4 size switches.

Here's the data sheet.

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1564547.pdf

chriso wrote:From memory they (I think) are V4 size switches.

Here's the data sheet.

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1564547.pdf

Thank you! A different quality league to the switch I used. 50,000 operations min. life! That's a good few miles of TIG bead! Excellent stuff; dimensions as well. This is definitely the product I should be using.

Many thanks. I am most grateful for the first-class advice and patient guidance I've had from everyone.

Martin

martinr wrote:

chriso wrote:From memory they (I think) are V4 size switches.

Here's the data sheet.

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1564547.pdf

Thank you! A different quality league to the switch I used. 50,000 operations min. life! That's a good few miles of TIG bead! Excellent stuff; dimensions as well. This is definitely the product I should be using.

Many thanks. I am most grateful for the first-class advice and patient guidance I've had from everyone.

Martin

if they are V4 set up an account at CPC and get them post free for around 50p

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/brows ... sults=true


CPC is the consumer division of Farnell and much cheaper.

chriso wrote:

martinr wrote:

chriso wrote:From memory they (I think) are V4 size switches.

Here's the data sheet.

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1564547.pdf

Thank you! A different quality league to the switch I used. 50,000 operations min. life! That's a good few miles of TIG bead! Excellent stuff; dimensions as well. This is definitely the product I should be using.

Many thanks. I am most grateful for the first-class advice and patient guidance I've had from everyone.

Martin

if they are V4 set up an account at CPC and get them post free for around 50p

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/brows ... sults=true


CPC is the consumer division of Farnell and much cheaper.

I went to the Farnell site yesterday and didn't get very far, but the CPC site link you sent was perfect. I've ordered 3 different models to make sure I end up with a perfect solution. I'd never heard of CPC so I'm extremely grateful for the pointer to such high-quality and suitable switches. I'll post back once it's done.

I really appreciate your kind help.

Martin

I bought a couple of microswitches from CPC and this one fitted perfectly.



I used two 2.5mm nylon plastic nuts and bolts to hold the switch in place (and melted the end of the screw to the nut to lock).



The result: perfection, with that reassuring over-centre click to the switch.



In case anyone's wondering, the Chinese symbols say, "May your tig beads look like a stack of dimes". Or maybe not.


Sincere thanks for all the help and especially for educating me on the different types of switches - a really shameful lack of knowledge on my part.

Martin