Welding Tips and Tricks

Ok- sure this ain't new, but I have not seen it covered here yet. I just repaired an oil filled heat exchanger with 2 cracks in one of the connecting tubes, by using my TIG torch (Miller Diversion 180) and a bit of solder. I had the machine set up for stainless running straight argon gas at about 13 to 15 cfm, set the amperage to 30, used a 1/16" lantahanated tungsten, fired it up, and away I went. Lo and behold, it worked just ducky, and the heat exchanger is all better now.
So- anybody else do any of this? Any tips? Feedack? Am I out of my everlovin' mind for even doing this?
Thanks,
Lucky Bastard

I haven't done this one myself, but it's not uncommon.

Did you use a lead/tin solder? (I haven't seen that discussed.)

Silver solder, and phosphor bronze have been discussed here before.

Copper parts can even be TIG welded directly, often with nothing but some stripped house electrical wire as the filler. I'm told the metal must be clean like aluminum, and the puddle tends to be "dead" (meaning it doesn't flow out on it's own, and you have to push it where you want it).

Like you, I'd like to hear some input from folk who've done it, what worked or didn't, etc.

Steve

I have often wondered about this.

I have seen persons that repair bodywork on cars use oxyacetylene torches and brass or bronze(not quite sure which)rods. The finished joint is not rigid giving the vehicle some flexibility in motion.

It might be a consideration that using TIG there could some saving in cost.

Hi, what you are doing is using the arc to just heat the job, and as long as you keep it moving it will probably have the same effect as an Oxy/Acc torch.

There probably would be a saving if you already have the Tig outfit and Argon, and didn't want to invest further in Oxy/Acc.....you still would have to have the Argon to protect the Tungsten from being burned away, and at the same time you also would need the flux that is used with soft or silver solder etc so that the joint doesn't oxidise in the Tig "flame".

The biggest drawback is that to get the tungsten to form an arc you have to get close to the job and that means a very intense and concentrated heat zone.
Ian.

Would this work on a AC evaporator? What are the pitfalls? Would it work better if the tungsten was balled at the end so the has is bigger?