Welding Tips and Tricks

My first attempts at TIG welding went very well, many thanks to Jodi's videos and other resources to help me learn how to set up the equipment and techniques. I am using a Yeswelder TIG-205DS with HF start, 3/32" 2% lanthanated tungsten, #6 cup, and 20 CFH argon.

First picture is the first weld I ran with filler rod at 125 amps. Prior to this, I struck an arc 3 times on a test plate, seemed to be pretty easy to control.

I then had a look at different amp settings on the 1/8" angle steel that I am using to make a caster base for a Masterforce weld table/tank holder, see attached pictures of the front/back of the welds. I welded up the frame using 110 amps, some welds were very nice and others were part of my "training".

One thing I learned is to make sure the metal is clean and acetone wiped to get the best welds. And a clean, sharp tungsten helps.

Any tips on how to prevent a hole at the start/finish of the weld? This machine has an on/off button on the torch, so there is no way to ramp down on amperage. It does have 3 second post flow after the arc is turned off.

With a #6 cup, you should run closer to 12cfh.

The “hole” at the end of the weld is a crater eye. To avoid, add another small amount of filler as you torch off. This will leave a small “hill” instead of a crater. You can always flatten the hill with a flap disk.

Another option is to torch off and quickly “back drag” or flick the torch angle rearward. This creates a “dragon tail” and avoids the crater.

If you peruse your manual, there may be a hidden menu feature for cratering.

As you start your weld, add filler a bit earlier or add an extra dab as a tack. Then start from there with your weld. Static amp control is tricky for beginners. You might have a 2T setting to allow the torch button to control a ramped amperage?

Looks like that model doesn't even offer up/down slope options for 2T. Unless I'm missing something...only took a quick glance at it.

That's a real shame if it gives you zero options for controlling amperage during the weld. Even without a pedal, some pretty nice welds can be made using only 2T slope control.

You can use aluminum or copper as a run-on and run off tab. Start the arc off the steel, and start dabbing as you move from the copper to steel. Then terminate the arc after you run off the steel to the copper at the end.

Also watch (or rewatch) Jody's video on the thee things that go wrong when you are first learning to TIG weld: to long of an arc length, too much torch angle and not keeping the filler rod in the shielding gas. Your welds look like you are suffering from one or more of those issues.

Thanks guys, greatly appreciated. I struggled a bit more with it last night, learned a few things, like what the weld looks like when you forget to turn on the argon and how easy it is to make the tungsten stick to the weld.

I'll practice a bit more using your tips, I went back and watched a few more videos also.

Would a 1/16" tungsten instead of a 3/32" provide better control at lower amperage and less chance of blowing a hole on the start/stop ends?

Paul Fithian wrote:Thanks guys, greatly appreciated. I struggled a bit more with it last night, learned a few things, like what the weld looks like when you forget to turn on the argon and how easy it is to make the tungsten stick to the weld.

I'll practice a bit more using your tips, I went back and watched a few more videos also.

Would a 1/16" tungsten instead of a 3/32" provide better control at lower amperage and less chance of blowing a hole on the start/stop ends?

Tungsten diameter is not your opponent here; its amperage control and "learning to TIG weld". You will be better off making slight adjustments in your amps, find the correct travel speed for those amps, and tinker with filler wire amounts. For instance:

You could run much hotter be that creates a demand for more filler, more frequently to cool the puddle. This is an "advanced" technique and not one I'd advocate you undertake yet. You could reduce your amps (90ish) and slow your travel speed and use thinner filler dabbing more frequently and shoving more wire into the puddle to keep the weld flush to the surface (this is a great practice for new welders). Both approaches teach you how to cool the puddle with wire, and how to read the puddle/metal for heat control. When the metal gets too hot, add filler. If the puddle is sluggish, more amps or slow down your travel.

(Travel speed on carbon and ally is a lot more forgiving than stainless or Ti).

I spent a few more hours practicing on some test plates and blocks. Now feel like I'm getting the hang of it. Almost vertical torch angle and getting better at weld pool control. Most of these welds were run at 150 amps with 15 CFH argon.

Clean steel wiped with acetone works best. I have maybe 20 minutes of weld time on my current tungsten without dipping it into the pool or filler rod. It's almost like writing with the plasma arc as a flowing ink.

I was able to finish the caster table last night, very happy with how it turned out, now giving it a test drive before I paint it. Very solid and easy to move around. Bottom sheet is 16 gauge, mid shelf sheet is 22 gauge and supported by a grid underneath.

I plan on making a small stand to mount the welder vertically next to the tank.

Looking good & hope you enjoy the setup.

When I first started welding, I was using a mig machine and built a welding table with shelving underneath it. It worked well because I was always standing while welding. Now that I have gotten into tig welding, the shelving presents a problem because I usually sit to weld. So I have a new welding table that I can belly-up to, get my legs under and is comfortable to work the foot pedal. The welder and tank are on a dedicated cart.

I finished the small pedestal for the welder, worked out as I planned. I'll use it this way for a few weeks unfinished to see if any further modifications are needed.

This worked out to be a nice compact and mobile workspace for welding, only an electrical connection needed. With the caster base, the weld table is right at the same height as my workbench, 36 inches. Harbor Freight Quick Release Bar Clamps work great in these holes. Just cut off the fixed end and drop in, they lock when tilted.

I would caution you on positioning your machine like that. 1 lots of stuff will fall in the front grate, potentially hot melt your wires stuff. 2 most internal components are supported to handle stress in the normal position, so your risking cracking a circuit board. Table looks good though.