Welding Tips and Tricks

Hey all, didn't see an answer to this, so here goes.

I picked up a Yeswelder 250P AC/DC over black friday and I want to change up the foot pedal from stock. It looks like it's shipped with a 5 pin pedal and I was wondering: can you adapt about any pedal to a 5 pin and if so, how? Super new to this (only done MIG so far)and I just wanted to know. The reviews suggest upgrading the pedal, but don't say what or how. TIA

Contact these folks- they can likely help you: https://www.ssccontrols.com/potentiomet ... -m-series/

I can easily figure it out if you are willing to open up the footpedal and take pics & readings for me with a multimeter.

Oscar wrote:I can easily figure it out if you are willing to open up the footpedal and take pics & readings for me with a multimeter.

zizari must've went with ssc but that was really good of you to offer Oscar !! that is what makes a forum a good one.

thanks Oscar.

He hasn't logged back in since December 2nd, so who knows. All I know is it's eazy peazy.

I could not use the quote feature, but I will take some readings and take the gracious offer from Oscar. I haven't got it yet there's a huge delay from YesWelder at the moment.

I've got some scant electronics known how and figured that just tearing the thing open was the key. Was low-key hoping to avoid tearing it open though. Thanks for all the input, it is appreciated.

It is possible without opening it up, but without actually being there to do what I need to do, it would take too long to explain it if you don't already know what to do. In other words if you don't already know how a 5-pin pedal works then you'd need a lesson in that first, but it would be faster/easier just opening it up, taking pictures/readings, then following my instructions. Trust me I've done this a few times with mine.

Oscar wrote:It is possible without opening it up, but without actually being there to do what I need to do, it would take too long to explain it if you don't already know what to do. In other words if you don't already know how a 5-pin pedal works then you'd need a lesson in that first, but it would be faster/easier just opening it up, taking pictures/readings, then following my instructions. Trust me I've done this a few times with mine.

Sounds good to me. I look forward to it and hopefully will emerge with more knowledge on the subject!

I bought a YesWelder 250 Tig and want to replace the pedal since it is so stiff. If i buy a pedal with a 5 pin connector can I wire it to match the yeswelder pedal? I have attached a picture of the inside of the yeswelder pdeal.

LRios wrote:

IMG_0666.JPG

I bought a YesWelder 250 Tig and want to replace the pedal since it is so stiff. If i buy a pedal with a 5 pin connector can I wire it to match the yeswelder pedal? I have attached a picture of the inside of the yeswelder pdeal.

It is not just the wiring. Different manufacturers want different resistance from the pot in the foot pedal. It seems a lot of the generic chinese stuff expects a 10K ohm pot in the pedal. My old one did. They seem anything but standard in this area.

Measure the resistance between the outer terminals of the potentiometer, which looks to be the red and black wires.

The potentiometer in the 250P a/c d/c is 10 ohm. While you have the foot pedal open make sure it is adjusted so you get full travel on the potentiometer. I have looked at a couple and none have been close.

Harry wrote: ↑Sun Jan 30, 2022 10:13 am The potentiometer in the 250P a/c d/c is 10 ohm. While you have the foot pedal open make sure it is adjusted so you get full travel on the potentiometer. I have looked at a couple and none have been close.

10 Ohms or 10k, that is pretty small.

At least there is a resistor, I've had a few with no pot and no (obvious) switch - all digital.

Jack

My mistake it is 10K NOT 10 good catch!

So I have a different brand machine I'm modifying a pedal to work with. Seems to be wired correct except that the HF start doesn't engage until the end of the pedals travel instead of the beginning? Also need to add that at this point I have yet to verify amperage control is working correctly as I can't look at the display while holding an arc. I'm working on it by myself and have very little to go on... Thanks