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As you can imagine, you can make any size TIG cup/nozzle into a gas lens like this. And yes, it works. You can extend your tungsten more than just using standard consumables.
I mentioned this before and showed some pics, but I decided to show more in-depth how one can make their own "sorta" gas lens for their standard TIG torch consumables. This will work for pretty much any torch and any collet body system because it is secured to the TIG cup/nozzle. Note: This made by a hobbyist, for hobbyists.
RIGHT CLICK ► VIEW IMAGE or OPEN IN NEW TAB
As you can imagine, you can make any size TIG cup/nozzle into a gas lens like this. And yes, it works. You can extend your tungsten more than just using standard consumables.
RIGHT CLICK ► VIEW IMAGE or OPEN IN NEW TAB
As you can imagine, you can make any size TIG cup/nozzle into a gas lens like this. And yes, it works. You can extend your tungsten more than just using standard consumables.
If you have 023 MIG wire, I think that would perhaps works a teensy weensy bit better for small cups like #5-#7. It won't have as much spring-back as 030 wire, but I think it would provide less of a presence inside the cup for even more laminar flow. I had actually planned to make a video out of it, but my personal laptop where I have my video editing software went kaput. $1500 Asus G752VL blew the motherboard completely. How I don't know. I just know I have to replace it (the mother board) because I had bought a Samsung VNAND 970 Pro SSD for it that I can't have just sitting around. For now I have my work laptop, but I don't have administrative rights to install software, and our IT is on vacation for the summer like the teachers.Spartan wrote:Been wondering what your process was for making those. Thanks for sharing that. I may give it a go and try my hand at making some.
Anyhow, the best part about this is if you run into some junk steel or a sudden breeze/draft outdoors and some major porosity spits molten metal back up into the TIG cup, you don't have to worry about throwing an expensive gas lens collet body into the trash. Just disassemble: pull out the outer retaining ring with a pick tool, pick and throw out the outer SS mesh screen that has been compromised, and replace just that one.
And as a side-note, the bossman has approved for me to order ceramic resins for our Formlabs Form2 3-D printer at work. Hello custom-made TIG cups.
Thanks for the info. And looking forward to seeing those 3D printed cups!Oscar wrote:If you have 023 MIG wire, I think that would perhaps works a teensy weensy bit better for small cups like #5-#7. It won't have as much spring-back as 030 wire, but I think it would provide less of a presence inside the cup for even more laminar flow. I had actually planned to make a video out of it, but my personal laptop where I have my video editing software went kaput. $1500 Asus G752VL blew the motherboard completely. How I don't know. I just know I have to replace it (the mother board) because I had bought a Samsung VNAND 970 Pro SSD for it that I can't have just sitting around. For now I have my work laptop, but I don't have administrative rights to install software, and our IT is on vacation for the summer like the teachers.Spartan wrote:Been wondering what your process was for making those. Thanks for sharing that. I may give it a go and try my hand at making some.
Anyhow, the best part about this is if you run into some junk steel or a sudden breeze/draft outdoors and some major porosity spits molten metal back up into the TIG cup, you don't have to worry about throwing an expensive gas lens collet body into the trash. Just disassemble: pull out the outer retaining ring with a pick tool, pick and throw out the outer SS mesh screen that has been compromised, and replace just that one.
And as a side-note, the bossman has approved for me to order ceramic resins for our Formlabs Form2 3-D printer at work. Hello custom-made TIG cups.
First 3 people to reply after this post, I will make you one gas-lens setup (two rings + three SS wire mesh screens) free of charge for your specified TIG cup size (from #5 up to #12) and your specified tungsten diameter (0.040", 1/16", 3/32", 1/8"). Just pay actual shipping and you must post pictures after having used it on a practice bead or welded on a project.
Last edited by Oscar on Mon Jul 06, 2020 12:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Done. That will be 50 cents to cover the cost of the stamp.Spartan wrote:First
And Thanks!
Edit: #8 in 3/32, please. I can paypal you the shipping cost if you PM your email...or can send shipping cost any other way you would like. Thanks again.
LtBadd wrote:I'm in, series 2 torch cup size #12 and 3/32" tungsten
Thanks Oscar!
can I get a blue one in RGB 36, 127, 255?
I think you're confused. I'm not sending out any TIG cups, lol. Besides, I've never seen a #12 for a 2-series, which is the WP9/20, right? The largest I've seen is #10. They do make standard #12's for WP17/18/26 though.
Who me? nah!BillE.Dee wrote:gotta watch those fumes from the attic...
I wear a 3M 6503 respirator with 2297 filters all the time, and I have that fan going clearing fumes!Bill, In this day and age, you can surely find someone who can help you post pictures from your phone. It doesn't matter if you are one to post them here, just as long as you can get someone to help you post them, then you'd be set!.
If she can post a pic here from your phone, I'd be impressed. As good as they are with electronics, forums might not be their strong suit, but let's hope.BillE.Dee wrote:6 year old granddaughter will be here today ... gramps has plans !!
Doubt it. Those collet bodies & cups are "plug and play". I doubt welders want to be fidgeting with screens and rings then they can just slip/thread-on an already made gas lens & cup.Spartan wrote:Might be something to give Furick and CK a run for their money.