Welding Tips and Tricks

Attached are 2 pictures of 2 welds I did today, darker one is steel, lighter is stainless. I am being self taught from reading and watching videos. I am just looking to further myself from this post, nothing specific, just anything you notice.

3/32 blue
100 amps with steel and 90 with stainless using pedal
#7 gas lens
15 cfm argon
Using .060 filler (2 pieces of .030 mig wire twisted up, smallest rod i have is 1/16 but this flows better)

I also attached 2 pictures of me welding so you can see how I hold the torch as well. I think I need to learn to drag my hand to keep the torch position more solid then moving my hand and wrist as I go. Also have not thought about feeding wire in my hand yet. The torch angle looks steeper in the picture then what I thought it was. But I don't have any problems with the filler rod balling up on me.

I'm also a beginner and all I can say is "Wow!"
I'd be mighty happy if my beads looked as smooth as those.

Constructively, you are angling the torch far too much. One telltale sign in your stainless weld is the color. From start to nearly the finish, the heat is very high. This is caused by the angle of the torch. Where you weld ends, your color is better because you're likely rotating the cup more vertical for post flow coverage.

Stainless is particularly finicky. Try holding a true 90* and re-run a bead. You'll create a small amount of angle; that's okay. But how much your photo shows will haunt you as you go.

Beads look very well shaped and controlled, and timing looks really good.

Welds look solid. I would agree that you may want to try to plant that torch hand at least part of your wrist to have a solid place to steady and to be able to slide. That may require you to choke up on the torch a little more.

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Adam35C wrote: Using .060 filler (2 pieces of .030 mig wire twisted up.

Overall I think it looks good, pretty consistent! Only feedback is the equivalent filler diameter: two 030 wires equal one 048 diameter wire.

Thanks for the compliments and feedback! I tried a more upright torch angle, definitely going to take some getting use to but I immediately noticed that I need less amperage with it, still set at 90 on stainless but you can see where the puddle got a little large.

That is really a good looking weld for someone self-taught.

With stainless, once you get a puddle, GO! It wets quickly and stays wet. Keep your arc length really tight and that will help keep the puddle width smaller.

cj737 wrote:That is really a good looking weld for someone self-taught.

With stainless, once you get a puddle, GO! It wets quickly and stays wet. Keep your arc length really tight and that will help keep the puddle width smaller.

Thanks! I am really struggling with how to hold the torch, move and be solid. That picture was the best I could come up with. I think i need to try more without actually welding, just so I can easily watch my hand. I think I was laid over so far to see.

Adam35C wrote: I am really struggling with how to hold the torch, move and be solid. .

Don't worry, it's always a struggle! TIG is always a challenge. Yes it does get easier, but it's none the less always challenging.

Oscar wrote:Don't worry, it's always a struggle! TIG is always a challenge. Yes it does get easier, but it's none the less always challenging.

Any flavor of weld is challenging when it gets right down to it. The guys who are really good at any of them have years of experience at it and work at it daily. I seldom think about how far down the skill-ladder I am till I get to see someone who's really good work their magic.

It's hard to even comprehend how much knowledge and skill there is to acquire about something that seems on the surface to be so simple.

Try to not put your weight on your arms as you weld. It tends to make your hands/wrists/forearms drag/stick on the table. Its OK to prop on the table (lightly), but don't put your full body weight. Once you do this, moving your hands becomes easier.

Louie1961 wrote:Try to not put your weight on your arms as you weld. It tends to make your hands/wrists/forearms drag/stick on the table. Its OK to prop on the table (lightly), but don't put your full body weight. Once you do this, moving your hands becomes easier.

Very true. Gotta tighten up those core muscles. Your arms should be able to float like a butterfly.

Oscar wrote:

Louie1961 wrote:Try to not put your weight on your arms as you weld. It tends to make your hands/wrists/forearms drag/stick on the table. Its OK to prop on the table (lightly), but don't put your full body weight. Once you do this, moving your hands becomes easier.

Very true. Gotta tighten up those core muscles. Your arms should be able to float like a butterfly.

So that your arc can sting like a bee

To me you are an expert. all i can say is that your starting point seems lilttle bulky. But Overall it is just wow.

Adam35C wrote:Thanks for the compliments and feedback! I tried a more upright torch angle, definitely going to take some getting use to but I immediately noticed that I need less amperage with it, still set at 90 on stainless but you can see where the puddle got a little large.

keep the amps up and get your travel speed up. the back side tells the story.
not sure what size material you have there, but rough rule of thumb for stainless is filler about the size of the material (for the thin stuff).

With stainless you really do want to crank along at a pretty good rate, your travel speed will make the difference between a gray oxidized weld and a light golden bead.

If you've got any aluminum or copper angle or plate, It works great as a heat sink to keep from getting so much heat oxidation on your metal.

I have found that me trying to hold a super tight torch height has limited my space in adding filler so shoving in smaller filler has worked. But if i try to keep about a tungsten thickness (3/32) gap its easier with 1/16 rod to dab without sticking but i found my arc wonders a tad. Not sure if thats too much height or my grind on the point. I do Grind it in the length of the tungsten while spinning it slowly but there usually seems to be some groves from the process. Will they effect the arc? Usually shoot for about 60ish degrees and i am using a diamond plate on my bench grinder. Its from a tool for sharpening saw blades that I got from harbor freight, just the blades, not the tool

Adam35C wrote:I have found that me trying to hold a super tight torch height has limited my space in adding filler so shoving in smaller filler has worked. But if i try to keep about a tungsten thickness (3/32) gap its easier with 1/16 rod to dab without sticking but i found my arc wonders a tad. Not sure if thats too much height or my grind on the point. I do Grind it in the length of the tungsten while spinning it slowly but there usually seems to be some groves from the process. Will they effect the arc? Usually shoot for about 60ish degrees and i am using a diamond plate on my bench grinder. Its from a tool for sharpening saw blades that I got from harbor freight, just the blades, not the tool

60 degrees included angle is a bit wide, IMO, for steels. Try an included angle in the 25-35 degree range.

The scratches (if they are within reason) are usually not a problem until you are doing delicate work, i.e., sub-50A.