[Keith]

Hi guys, I am new to tig welding, got my Everlast 210ext last 2 month or so.
I initially started by testing on mild steel tube and switched to aluminum once I could run a bead and it looked fairly good.
Now, after watching and now re-watching many of Yt welding vids, I have a stable arc on 6061 test plates and can even run shorts beads, sorta. Not pretty mind you, but it is a start.
Now, I am hoping to make up some fencing panels for my partners to do list.
The main job calls for 1" square, rounded corner, 6061 tube .
After studying this problem I am thinking there may be 2 problems at work here , torch too hot, metal tube too cold and maybe bad ground. I fixed the ground, but the got the same results.
1. When trying to test weld a T joint at the joint itself with 2 , cleaned, and almost polished pieces, my torch tungsten, Red - 3/32, and 1/16 , 4043 feed rod, I am getting blow out at the torch tip, meaning uncontrollable start with lots of noise, black soot etc.
At this time I checked the heat on the torch body by removing my one glove. It was close to being too hot to touch due to my continuous attempts I thinkl.
The everlast welder came with a #9 and a #26 torch. Both are getting quite warm and it seems that no matter what I try, less amps, etc. the arc just blows in all directions telling me they are too hot.?
I have tried swapping back and forth between to 2, same result.
I am thinking a water torch and cooler setup would fix this problem but cannot justify the cost at his time.
Maybe a DIY kit?
PS.. Argon Gas at 13-15 CFH, Gas lens in both torches, #5 ceramic cup, approx 1/8 tungsten outisde cup.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks Keith

[VA-Sawyer]

I am only about a year ahead of you in the Tig game. I have a 255EXT, so the setup should be similar.
Make sure you are welding with AC current. My welder reverts to the last Saved program every time I turn it on. If I setup for AC, after welding steel, I sometimes forget to save it. Turn off welder to sharpen Tungsten, turn it back on to weld and it is back in DC mode.
What you describe, kinda reminds me of how the torch acts when that happens. Let's recheck the settings..... AC Squarewave, 100 to 120 max Amps welding current, 80-100 Hz, 30-35% cleaning action.
I prefer to use 2% Lanthinated (blue) tungsten on aluminum . 3/32" diameter should be ok for this task.
Try running a few beads with these settings and see how it does.

[cj737]

Let's recheck the settings..... AC Squarewave, 170 to 200 max Amps welding current, 60-120 Hz, 30-35% cleaning action.

Fixed that for you.

[VA-Sawyer]

I'm thinking of a wall thickness of .060" or so. If it was .125" then the 175 Amps would be a better choice. It is only 1" tubing.
On my machine, I find that 160 Amps is a good setting for 1/8" 6061 as long as I keep the frequency down.

[Keith]

HI Guys, Thanks for the quick reply.
I will have a look at the settings as described as soon as I can get back out, probably a day or so.
My welder usually reverts to same save but sometimes does not.

Chat soon Keith

[Oscar]

If your pieces are very clean, then make sure you use the right amount of cleaning action (AC balance) and not any more. The more you balance it towards EN, the more stable the arc will be. You should not be getting any black soot unless your shielding gas is drawing air in along the way. Can you make clean welds with the same exact set-up on another piece, preferably a larger flat part? If so that may be a tell-tale sign. Also, small tubing makes it alot more difficult to have proper argon shield, as the outside curvature of the part does not "trap" argon like an inside corner or even flat plate. Argon wants to fall down due to higher density than air. You might get better results from a #7-#8 cup this time around (with approx 12-20 CFH) Also, higher frequency will help straighten out the arc. Let's see your pointed tungsten before and after your attempt.

[tweake]

the other big factor with Tig is tungsten grind.
a sharp point with high amps can blow the tip off making lots of noise and soot.
i prefer the "crayon" style of grind. a moderate angle with blunt tip.

[BillE.Dee]

As tweake stated, you want to have the torch almost 90* over the work piece, tilted just enough to see the arc. And the end of the tungsten will be right close to the piece..about the thickness of the tungsten above. Hold the tungsten above the piece, step on the pedal hard and watch for the shiny dot then start moving, pushing the dot ahead of the torch, working the pedal to keep the dot the same size all the time.
If you can attach pictures, that would be good.

[Keith]

Hey guys, I will have a go later today after chores and work through the various suggestions you have put forward.
I have had some success on flats with the present setup but the square tube is another matter.
Tungsten tip shape and loss of argon due to curvature of the tube are something I had thought of and can change right away and other suggestions I will work through one at a time .
Many thanks, I will get back with results.
Keith
PS I am trying to video through a old welding lens but is useless to show due to loss of close focus. I will keep at it.

[Keith]

Hey guys, I have not been out to the welder due to tractor problems that seem to be coming all at once.
I have written down all your suggestions and will work through them and let you all know how it is going.
Have a great day.

Keith

[LtBadd]

No problem Keith, take care of business and get back when you can

[Keith]

Heh guys, forgive me for not posting here sooner, but after having a look at the 2 different subject locations , I will be adding reply's and data and pics to the top file of the posts.

Somehow the system split the file in 2 places? I'm not sure

Please have a peek .

Thanks Keith