Welding Tips and Tricks

Hi all, I've been experiencing intermittent problems with my Coolmate 3 tig cooler. The pump will work well for days. Then, without any warning, the pump will stick inside, causing it not to rotate. I've done the following without fixing the problem:
1. The cooler has been disassembled and the tank cleaned twice.
2. The coolant has been changed twice, using Miller brand coolant.
3. The Procon pump has been replaced with a new pump.
4. Checked the motor, it seems to spin easily without the pump attached, draws the correct amperage.
5. Motor is spinning in the correct direction to drive the pump in the correct direction.

If I take the cover off of the tig cooler and work the motor fan enough, the pump becomes unstuck and will run fine for some time before sticking again. The one thing I have not done is completely flush the entire system including the radiator with some kind of cleaner. I was wondering what you have used to flush and chemically clean the inside of your tig cooler radiator and torch lines. There isn't too much information clear information on this topic I could find on the internet. One person suggested flushing with CLR cleaner. Another suggested vinegar. I'm really leaning toward a radiator flush chemical used for automotive cooling systems. The tig cooler remains in an unheated/unairconditioned Wisconsin garage.

Bob

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Did you just replace the pump or the pump and motor. What your describing is a motor issue. Like it probably has a bad spot in the windings or on the armature. If it’s a capacitor run motor then I’d check the capacitor.

Poland308 wrote:Did you just replace the pump or the pump and motor. What your describing is a motor issue. Like it probably has a bad spot in the windings or on the armature. If it’s a capacitor run motor then I’d check the capacitor.

Hi, I didn't replace the motor as it checked out as good with an amp meter. When the motor is disconnected from the pump it works fine. Somehow the pumps are accumulating something that is causing them to lock up. When I took apart the first pump it had a light coating of green stuff inside which seemed to be what was causing it to stick. I replaced the pump with a new one. It took about 6 months and the second pump was sticking too. I've changed the coolant twice and cleaned the system twice. I have not chemically flushed the system, I'm thinking there is something in the radiator which is coming loose and plugging the pump, that's why I'm asking to see if anyone in the forum has chemically cleaned their tig cooler system.

Bob

Is the filter picking up any particulate?

The blue green gunk is either from cross contamination of different kinds of glycol. Or from old glycol were the inhibitors are broken down. The blue gue is about the concictancy of half dried latex paint? If so you need to flush out every thing Torch and hoses as well with a mixture of hot water and TSP. We do it on big systems all the time when someone “accidentally “ adds the wrong kind to a system.

Poland308 wrote:The blue green gunk is either from cross contamination of different kinds of glycol. Or from old glycol were the inhibitors are broken down. The blue gue is about the concictancy of half dried latex paint? If so you need to flush out every thing Torch and hoses as well with a mixture of hot water and TSP. We do it on big systems all the time when someone “accidentally “ adds the wrong kind to a system.

How does all the copper hold up to the TSP? I've always been taught to not use phosphates on copper cooling systems.

It was recommended to me as the only way to clean out that gunk by a chemist from Dow . I’ve flushed out several whole building systems and not had any trouble yet they were on systems with mixed copper and steel piping, and they were for heat pumps that also had copper coil heat exchangers. Obviously your not leaving the stuff in there for a long time, but a whole building gets flushed for 3 to 5 days.

Hi, I thought I'd post the solution to the problem I've described in my previous posts in hope that it would help someone else. What finally fixed the stuck tig cooler circulation pump was a complete flush of the system with PRESTONE RADIATOR FLUSH and deionized distilled water. Residual deposits of gunk in the cooler would stop the circulating pump even after a complete fluid change. After the cooler was cleaned with the radiator flush I drained it and then ran pure deionized water through it draining that also. Finally, filled the cooler the proper mix of Miller Tig cooler antifreeze and deionized distilled water. I have not had any problems with the cooler for several years. Hope this helps someone,

Bob

I could see that as working. Anything you would use to chemically flush a automotive rad will more than likely flush the Tig cooler system.


Did you flush with the water just by pouring and running then draining or by means of unhooking hoses,filling then blowing out in both directions with a air compressor?

Just curious is all,

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Try RMI-25. It’s an automotive system cleaner that also acts as a water pump lubricant. Typical dosing is 8 oz for a system up to 5 gallons capacity . It claims to be non-acidic and can be left in a system indefinitely. I’ve used it my vehicles .

rmi25.com

Rob


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