Welding Tips and Tricks

Newbie here, recently got into welding watching Jody's videos. So I started doing some research and got myself an Everlast 185DV. Decent price and I don't think I'll out grow it too fast. Started laying beads across a peice of steel to get the hang of things last week and today I took my first shot at outside corner joints, inside corner joints, and lap joints. I'd say it went ok. The outides corners look ok. The inside and definitely the laps need work. Definitely had some issues as you'll see. Let me know what you think and any tips you might have.

A bit too hot it seems but otherwise its fine.

When I train people I normally have them weld away on plate and they feel good, then I give them pieces to put together, then when they put 2 pieces together and are all happy and proud of it, I pick it up and break it in half again.

I guess I am an ass like that but tends to get the point across that its not all about appearance.

Just keep practicing, normally you start on one end and move either left or right and stick to that, in some cases you don't but its normally preferred as the bead will have a uniform appearance.

It's not very good, but I weld the same after almost 10 years, so I'll let it slide

But really, all anyone ever needs is practice and to watch Jody's video on the 3 tips that matter most. Hopefully you've seen that video. Steady your hand, use props, and use a tig finger. Keep your arc length short and keep it consistent.

Olivero wrote:A bit too hot it seems but otherwise its fine.

normally you start on one end and move either left or right and stick to that, in some cases you don't but its normally preferred as the bead will have a uniform appearance.

It's 1/8th inch hot rolled steel and I was running 100 amps but that still seemed like I wasn't​ getting enough heat on the lap joints and inside corner to penetrate the joint and push the puddle if that makes sense. On the out side corner I was at about 75-80 amps I think and that seemed ok. Yeah I know I should probably go straight across, but I stopped in the middle and it's easier right now to just flip the peice and start at the front again.

I teach a lot of fellow students tig welding and you are not the worst I've seen. A lot to work on as everyone does. Just watch those videos and watch and read the puddle. Make sure you get a nice puddle before you hit it with the filler rod. Another thing to I noticed is some porosity(the holes in the weld). Probably a gas issue or some contaminant in the puddle. Just be sure to clean that metal really well to get all that mill scale off. But the big thing is hood time. No one is perfect overnight. And keep spirits up if you don't like what you are doing. I've been tig welding for a year now and I'm still working on some basic things. Keep it up

What size filler are you using? If I was welding that outside corner on 1/8 plate and using 3/32 filler I'd be up over 90 amps maybe even up to 120. If you run too cold then by the time you get a good bead then you start to cook it. That's were some of the dark gray is coming from. Under cut on the edges and the occasional pin hole says you might be long arcing.

Key to TIG is to be fast and penetrative... is that a word?

I see it with new guys, they get the puddle molten and keep it molten and try to move it around and get it where they want it and they just cook the everliving shit out of the metal and ruin it. Fast and penetrative buddy, keep that in mind. Hit it hard and move.

I used to do stainless on low heat thinking it would help with the appearance, doesen't work like that. You gotta get it so that when you pedal it down, its welding and if you don't move it's gonna burn through, that's what works for me and keeps it pretty, keeps the HAZ down and warpage down.

I learned how to weld and welded for 2 years before discovering Jody, never even seen one of his videos, probably should, but haven't YET

For tight corner welds doing the "Le C" or "Le Z" motion might help. The "Le" is not a moving pattern but an attempt to make it sound french. Didn't want to confuse you there.

Poland308 wrote:What size filler are you using? If I was welding that outside corner on 1/8 plate and using 3/32 filler I'd be up over 90 amps maybe even up to 120. If you run too cold then by the time you get a good bead then you start to cook it. That's were some of the dark gray is coming from. Under cut on the edges and the occasional pin hole says you might be long arcing.

I've been mostly using 3/32nd rod. Tryed 1/16th as well. The only problem I'm having using over 100 amps is that when I get to about 110ish and I light up for more than 5 seconds it throws the breaker for the circuit my welder is on. So that's another issue I need to take care of. Yeah I thought I was holding a tight arc till I watched a couple videos over again and realized I was tight enough.

Olivero wrote:The "Le" is not a moving pattern but an attempt to make it sound french. Didn't want to confuse you there.

I thought that's what you were going for haha

jrtyler18943 wrote:

Olivero wrote:The "Le" is not a moving pattern but an attempt to make it sound french. Didn't want to confuse you there.

I thought that's what you were going for haha

Both motions are better than "Le Pew" (for those who grew up with Looney Tunes...)

Steve

jrtyler18943 wrote:

Olivero wrote:The "Le" is not a moving pattern but an attempt to make it sound french. Didn't want to confuse you there.

I thought that's what you were going for haha

Finally, someone that got that one.

I throw my breaker occasionally if I do 140 + but for a timed job, I'll figure out 208V somehow which makes me able to run 140 as much as I damn please.

For aluminum, IMO there is not really a point in getting anything smaller than 3/32" tends to burn up by the time it gets to the weld, unless your a speed dabber. Which I am not

@ jrtyler18943 - you will receive countless responses of "do this....do that....good....bad....etc". Here's a recommendation.

1. First, core knowledge. Understand and internalize the effects of modulating injected heat and the rate of advance (travel speed) into a workpiece. Watch and listen to Karl Hoes (Instructor/Metallurgist, Lincoln Electric) explain the tactic. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3j-ciGVAxes

2. Second, attack approach. Joint geometries can be simplified via the acronym 'BCTEL'. Butt (groove), Corner (inside, outside), T (fillet), Edge, and Lap.

Recommend you train and become proficient on welding joints in the following order: Lap, T, Corner, Butt, Edge. For mild steel, source/slice 20ft (HRS) sticks or 12ft (CRS) sticks of 2in wide x 1/8in thick material into coupons measuring 2in wide x 6in length x 1/8in thick. With three individual coupons you can weld a lap joint (both sides) and then lay down a fillet weld to create a t-joint. Excellent training tactic that minimizes net material costs.

With these practice coupons use 3/32" tungsten and 1/16" ER70S-2/6 filler. Then, transition into the remaining joints vis a vis Corner, Butt, and Edge. If you start with mild steel, then attack stainless steel, and then aluminum. For aluminum, employ 3/32" filler.

Have heard many fabricators say to start with thicker (ie. 3/16in+) material to learn the process. Totally disagree based on item #1 above and from a cost perspective.

3. Third, mission mindset. Every single weld line you run should have a "purpose". If you run into an issue or have a question at this point, simply stop. ReGroup, modify your approach, and resume activities. Focused hood time, test and learn, test and learn. That's the hustle.

Good fortune with your journey.

"steve wrote,
Both motions are better than "Le Pew" (for those who grew up with Looney Tunes...)

Steve

jeff seems to be influencing you a lot lately ...lol
craig