[sledwrenchin]

I have a titanium shaft that needs some build up and machining on the bearing journal. I do not know what grade of titanium the shaft is and was wondering what filler rod I would need to use.
Would the #12 cup sold in Jodys store be a good choice for proper shielding? I will only be welding a half inch at a time.

Also any recommendations on the set up would be great. I use a Dynasty 200 DX.
This is my first attempt at Titanium and will be doing a bit of practice on some small scrap pieces.

Thanks for any insight
Mike

[LtBadd]

Hi Mike and welcome to the forum
Is it possible to lookup the manufacturer of the shaft to find out the alloy? What is the diameter of the shaft? If it's a large enough diameter I would recommend using a rotator, and with proper shielding you could lay down a "X" number of beads before stopping to let it cool. As stated if the diameter is large enough the bead would cool quickly allowing you to weld several rounds before letting it cool down.

[sledwrenchin]

I have made contact with the shop that originally machined the shaft. No answer yet.And not sure I will get one.
Its a small diameter Hex shaft 1.25 inch. 1 inch round where the welding will take place and maybe .5 wide.

[LtBadd]

I have made contact with the shop that originally machined the shaft. No answer yet.And not sure I will get one.
Its a small diameter Hex shaft 1.25 inch. 1 inch round where the welding will take place and maybe .5 wide.

I assume one pass will be enough material to allow you to machine it, I would use a rotator and make one pass, let it cool then another.

[sledwrenchin]

What filler rod would you recommend?

[LtBadd]

What filler rod would you recommend?

I can't
I would however contact a supplier such as Corrosion Materials and see if they could provide an answer.

[Sandow]

Some scrap dealers and pawn shops have XRF guns. If you can get one of them to give you a reading you can just look up the alloy. I have to assume it is an expensive part. Best to be sure.

-Sandow

[sledwrenchin]

Thanks for the info Sandow. I will give that a try.

[cj737]

And yes, to the Fupa cup in Jody's store. You'll want to run 30cfh with that cup, and once you dip the filler, it must stay under the Argon while you weld, else it will corrode immediately.

[sledwrenchin]

Thanks cj737

[sledwrenchin]

I found out it is Ti 6AI4V Going to use the 6AI4V ELI filler.

[LtBadd]

I found out it is Ti 6AI4V Going to use the 6AI4V ELI filler.

Great, would like to see some photo's before machining, and of your TIG setup

[Oscar]

I would highly recommend active heat-sinking. A round, small-diameter shaft will dissipate argon faster than almost any other joint (except for maybe an outside corner joint), so you have to be in total control of heat input. Depending on the level of acceptable oxidation, a #12 might or might not get you by. If you're going to spring for a large cup, why not just go larger? You can get #14, #16, #18, and #24 size cups for a better safety margin.

[Farmwelding]

I would highly recommend active heat-sinking. A round, small-diameter shaft will dissipate argon faster than almost any other joint (except for maybe an outside corner joint), so you have to be in total control of heat input. Depending on the level of acceptable oxidation, a #12 might or might not get you by. If you're going to spring for a large cup, why not just go larger? You can get #14, #16, #18, and #24 size cups for a better safety margin.

would this humorous 150
Cup be sufficient with 100 CFH? Or could you get by with 60 CFH for normal regulators

Nick

[LtBadd]

I would highly recommend active heat-sinking. A round, small-diameter shaft will dissipate argon faster than almost any other joint (except for maybe an outside corner joint), so you have to be in total control of heat input.

I think it's worth saying in this case, even with a dark straw or blue color, remember the bead will be machined, so the top .XX" will be coming off.