Welding Tips and Tricks

Ok I just got my new SW 200 yesterday along with my new Stubby Gas lens kit from Weldmonger.com, got everything set up and tried to weld on some approximately 12 gauge mild steel. I cleaned the steel with a 60 grit flap wheel on my grinder, sharpened the 3/32 Lanthinated Tungsten set the welder to 100 amps DC, argon set to 15 cfh and proceeded to strike my first arc. I wasn't in a very comfortable position and should have been, but, the first inch or so wasn't too bad until I stuck the tungsten in the weld puddle. Did I mention that I wear bifocals and everything was a little blurry? I sharpened the tungsten and tried again. This time the arc seemed to be all over the place and all I was doing was making the steel melt. The tungsten was very rounded and burnt looking, and the #7 cup had a black residue around half of the inside of the cup. I sharpened the tungsten again with the same result. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Jay

When you pulled the tungsten, did you check the gas lens? Sometimes it gets splatter on it and screws up the gas flow.

Thanks it was late and I didnt think to do that,

Did I mention that I wear bifocals and everything was a little blurry?

In that case you need another lens in addition to your gas lens A cheater or magnifying lens - clips into your helmet behind the viewing window - will do wonders. If you can't see it you can't weld it. I use a 2.0x for most welding or a 3.0 if I am welding something very small.

Ken

WVJay wrote:Ok I just got my new SW 200 yesterday along with my new Stubby Gas lens kit from Weldmonger.com, got everything set up and tried to weld on some approximately 12 gauge mild steel. I cleaned the steel with a 60 grit flap wheel on my grinder, sharpened the 3/32 Lanthinated Tungsten set the welder to 100 amps DC, argon set to 15 cfh and proceeded to strike my first arc. I wasn't in a very comfortable position and should have been, but, the first inch or so wasn't too bad until I stuck the tungsten in the weld puddle. Did I mention that I wear bifocals and everything was a little blurry? I sharpened the tungsten and tried again. This time the arc seemed to be all over the place and all I was doing was making the steel melt. The tungsten was very rounded and burnt looking, and the #7 cup had a black residue around half of the inside of the cup. I sharpened the tungsten again with the same result. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Jay

Turn your gas flow up a little too. It would be pretty rare to crap up a gas lens bad enough to cause a reduction in flow especially because they are new. You might have an impingement in your gas line somewhere and your gauge might be reading correctly, you're not getting the gas out of the cup like you're supposed to or you might be drawing in air. Check all your connections.

exnailpounder wrote:

WVJay wrote:Ok I just got my new SW 200 yesterday along with my new Stubby Gas lens kit from Weldmonger.com, got everything set up and tried to weld on some approximately 12 gauge mild steel. I cleaned the steel with a 60 grit flap wheel on my grinder, sharpened the 3/32 Lanthinated Tungsten set the welder to 100 amps DC, argon set to 15 cfh and proceeded to strike my first arc. I wasn't in a very comfortable position and should have been, but, the first inch or so wasn't too bad until I stuck the tungsten in the weld puddle. Did I mention that I wear bifocals and everything was a little blurry? I sharpened the tungsten and tried again. This time the arc seemed to be all over the place and all I was doing was making the steel melt. The tungsten was very rounded and burnt looking, and the #7 cup had a black residue around half of the inside of the cup. I sharpened the tungsten again with the same result. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Jay

Turn your gas flow up a little too. It would be pretty rare to crap up a gas lens bad enough to cause a reduction in flow especially because they are new. You might have an impingement in your gas line somewhere and your gauge might be reading correctly, you're not getting the gas out of the cup like you're supposed to or you might be drawing in air. Check all your connections.

Well I have to be honest here, I found the issue. In my infinite wisdom and ability, I installed the collet upside down. Oh well. Sharpened the tungsten and tried again and it works.

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You wouldn't be the first one to do that...nor the last I had a SW 200 and I really liked it but you could have sliced baloney on my electric meter so I got a SW210. Electricity costs have gone way down. If you have any questions about the 200 feel free to ask.

By the way, 100 amps is way too high for 12ga steel. Half that should do the trick nicely. Hopefully you're using a pedal and once you get going, the metal sucks up more heat so you can taper off the pedal even more. A nice, tight arc to the puddle (without touching the tungsten ) works best.

cj737 wrote:By the way, 100 amps is way too high for 12ga steel. Half that should do the trick nicely. Hopefully you're using a pedal and once you get going, the metal sucks up more heat so you can taper off the pedal even more. A nice, tight arc to the puddle (without touching the tungsten ) works best.

12 ga. steel is .1046 so he is right where he needs to be on amperage. 1 amp per thousandth of an inch.

I tried turning the amperage down to 80 amps and it was hard to start and maintain a puddle. The sticker on top of the welder stated 80 to 100 amps for 12 gauge, so that's why I set it there. Guys I haven't welded in over 30 years and have never TIG welded so I am struggling a bit, but I am learning. I appreciate all the suggestions and advise that you can give me.

Jay

12 gauge is just under 1/8. If it's mold steel I'd be running 3/32 or 1/8 tungsten. About 95-110 amps with 3/32 filler. Your amp needs will vary depending on how large the pieces are your working with and what kind of joint you are welding. I.e. If it's a lap joint or some kind of tee joint then that's going to need more heat. Maybe even up around 120 amps. Also depends if you want full penetration.

[quote="WVJay"]I tried turning the amperage down to 80 amps and it was hard to start and maintain a puddle./quote] This screams arc length to me. Even if 80 is too low to immediately make a puddle, getting started and keeping a puddle should not be an issue once the metal is hot. If I am mistaken about how much amperage you need to get it right, then increase your amps so you are not using the full puddle.

I keep my machine set to about 150, but when I'm welding I glance over to see just how much amps I'm actually using. Even with thicker metal, I'm way under the "listed" rating. Maybe my box runs hot, I don't know... but I keep my arc super tight and cup in contact and have no issues getting it done.

CJ, I will work on my arc length and see if I can maintain a puddle and make it work. Like I said it has been over 30 years since I have welded. I am learning TIG for the first time. Keep up the advice and I will keep trying.

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WVJay wrote:CJ, I will work on my arc length and see if I can maintain a puddle and make it work. Like I said it has been over 30 years since I have welded. I am learning TIG for the first time. Keep up the advice and I will keep trying.

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the best tip ever given to me was arc length = rod diameter. Tough to do, easy to try

cj737 wrote:

WVJay wrote:I tried turning the amperage down to 80 amps and it was hard to start and maintain a puddle./quote] This screams arc length to me. Even if 80 is too low to immediately make a puddle, getting started and keeping a puddle should not be an issue once the metal is hot. If I am mistaken about how much amperage you need to get it right, then increase your amps so you are not using the full puddle.

I keep my machine set to about 150, but when I'm welding I glance over to see just how much amps I'm actually using. Even with thicker metal, I'm way under the "listed" rating. Maybe my box runs hot, I don't know... but I keep my arc super tight and cup in contact and have no issues getting it done.

Dont know about all the rest but, I have a TA "Arc Master!" 185, when I stop the weld, [foot off pedal], the machines display 'remembers' the actual current reading for several seconds before going to 'zero'. A nice feature, I think.

-c-

cornmuse wrote:
Dont know about all the rest but, I have a TA "Arc Master!" 185, when I stop the weld, [foot off pedal], the machines display 'remembers' the actual current reading for several seconds before going to 'zero'. A nice feature, I think.

-c-

That only works if you stop abruptly. If you tail off slowly, the last five seconds' average is what will show.

Steve S