Welding Tips and Tricks

I have the PowerTig 225LX and have been playing since yesterday morning. I have learned some stuff but now have even more questions for you learned types. Some of this stuff may seem really stupid, but I'd rather ask than keep wondering.

First the machine settings: 30 amps, AC, 2T-w/torch switch, Pulse OFF,
1/16" 2% thoriated, no. 5 gas cup, 100% argon @ 6 LPH.

Type metal: .025 aluminum sheet (Lowes), 4043 1/16" rod.

Questions
I seem to be unable to change the amount of cathotic etching with the AC balance. On a reasonable .25 inch wide bead the etching is about 2/3 as wide on both sides of the bead, with no apparent change no matter what the setting of the AC balance. Is this normal at lower amps?

(Machine specific) When pulse is selected and you use an amperage setting of say 30 amps and the display flashes between 2 numbers, I understand that to indicate the high and the low amperage while pulsing. Why do these numbers wander?

(Machine specific) If I set the amps to the lowest setting (23 amps on my machine) with pulse selected will there be any observable difference (will it pulse lower)?

On initial start I sometimes get a crackle and/or a sputter on the above listed aluminum and the arc kinda wanders. Is this caused by my technique or is it something I've not set up correctly? (not enough gas flow, dirty metal/poor quality metal, electrode gap, electrode stickout, torch angle, etc.)

I'd appreciate any insight you folks might have.

Oh I've attached a photo of some of my first aluminum beads. The beads at the bottom were the first attempts then they were wire brushed. All criticism is welcome, well almost all!



Best Regards, Zoom

(Machine specific) When pulse is selected and you use an amperage setting of say 30 amps and the display flashes between 2 numbers, I understand that to indicate the high and the low amperage while pulsing. Why do these numbers wander?

When you set the amps on a welding machine, your setting the amperage you want it at.(Theoretical maximum). However, depending on various factors(arc length being the main one), the actual amperage on the weldment will be less. It will also fluctuate as the metal heats up (ya know how steel is alot easier to weld on when its warmed up? its because the warmer the metal gets, the better it conducts the electricity).

On initial start I sometimes get a crackle and/or a sputter on the above listed aluminum and the arc kinda wanders. Is this caused by my technique or is it something I've not set up correctly? (not enough gas flow, dirty metal/poor quality metal, electrode gap, electrode stickout, torch angle, etc.)

How are you cleaning your metal? I would scuff it up good with a stainless steel brush or steel wool, and then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol or something similar. Do the same with your filler. Be sure not to touch the clean aluminum with your bare hands and try not to touch it all that much even with your gloves. Also, be sure to use a seperate pair of welding gloves JUST for aluminum. Keep em in a ziplock bag or something.

If that doesnt help, make sure you got a good secure, clean ground connection. Sometimes the HF likes to be stupid Ive found and it might be the culprit. Make sure the ground clamp is as close as reasonably possible to your weldment. Make sure your weldment is secured to your ground clamp/welding table fairly tightly(I found this to help the most when dealing with HF problems).

Hope that helps. Good luck!

On aluminum, cleaning is king. Te coating on the face of your sheet takes almost 3 times the heat to burn through as the molten aluminum. You can see these facts on the demonstration on tig alum. welding on this site. You get the coating off and I believe your problems will decrease significantly.

The beads look like maybe you should put your weave (for lack of better terms) closer, hotter, and faster. This should make things flatter and more uniform. Good start for sure, keep it up.

On .025 aluminum - that is pretty good. Especially your later runs. I would try dipping the filler more frequently, that is, stacking the "dimes" tighter. That is my preference; I build some aluminum automotive fluid tanks which should not leak.

On the etching width; it looks normal to me on your later runs for your machine - cannot see it on the earlier runs. Yes, it could be narrower, but I think that is about as narrow as you can get with the 225LX. If I remember correctly the 225LX AC positive adjustment range is 30% to 70% (actual range, not what the dial is labeled). On other machines, like the 250EX, it is a broader range, like 10% to 90%. To my knowledge, it does not hurt, just creates more cleanup work. For more info on the etching search "etching" on the Everlast Forum.

Davidep82 you are exactly right the a/c balance is 30-70% and The first attempts cleaning action was considerably wider and didn't seem to be affected by increasing or decreasing the A/C balance. Now after trying again it does seem to have a noticeable effect.
As to the arc start issues, When you watch the arc initially start, it kinda wanders a little then settles down. Where it is wandering it leaves the same appearance as the cleaning action might next to the actual bead. I contacted Everlast and the ever helpful Mark suggested checking the HF points (which were correctly set at the factory). If you look at some of the beads on the right end(where all my beads begin)you'll see an initial frosted area prior to the beginning of the bead. That is where the arc initially wandered around and then finally settles. It never did this on thin mild steel sheet. I haven't really yet played with the upslode either. but I wonder if it might have some effect at lower amperage?!? The later welds were accomplished at 23 amps (lowest A/C setting on machine). I must also admit to doing no metal prep for this practice. Straight from Lowes to the welding bench! I'll also try to bump up my feed speed to see if I can make the bead stack up better and try some metal prep. What do you suggest for prep?

Zoomie wrote:If you look at some of the beads on the right end(where all my beads begin)you'll see an initial frosted area prior to the beginning of the bead. That is where the arc initially wandered around and then finally settles.

It looks like the large frosted area at the beginning of your beads could be from staying in one spot to long to start your puddle. Try more heat at the beginning to get the puddle going quickly, the back off on the amps enough to keep the puddle going as you continue your bead. Also make sure you have a sharp point on your tungsten. This will help with the ark wander and pinpoint your heat to help get the puddle started quickly.

Zoomie wrote: I must also admit to doing no metal prep for this practice. Straight from Lowes to the welding bench! I'll also try to bump up my feed speed to see if I can make the bead stack up better and try some metal prep. What do you suggest for prep?

Use a stainless steel brush followed by a wipe down with acetone just prior to welding. Also wipe down your tungsten and filler rod with the acetone as well.

Sarge, Rugar,
Thanks for the suggestion(s). I'll try it today. I think I'm also going to try clamping the workpiece to the table to see if that has an effect as well.

All these are good suggestions. I did all of them while I was learning as a way of eliminating the obvious so I could concentrate on technique instead. I'm still learning but I've got better skills now and can work through a lot of the minor problems. Keep practicing.

Well thanks to you guys i think I've made some headway! I attached the work clamp (ground) to the actual work instead of the table and it made a noticeable difference. The initial crackle disappeared! The second most notable change was just metal prep. It appears to have caused the arc to be much more consistent with less wander. Now if I could just manage to keep my arc gap the same on heat warped metal! If I can continue improve basic beads I hope to start a simple welding cart next!

Z