[Retorpak]

I will be welding some control arms using 1" x 0.083" Docol R8 tube, 4130 threaded tube adapers, 4130 spherical bearing cup and 1018 steel plate.

Plate and cup and tube ends are approximately 0.25" thick.

Here is the link to the DOCOL R8 specs: http://www.aedmotorsport.com/docs/a05-d ... ations.pdf

I was thinking 1/16" ceriated, 1/16" or 3/32" er80s-d2 and start with 80 amps. No backpurge


Could you please recommend the settings?

Thank You

[Jens.J]

This is what i can find from a Swedish page. It's a copy from SSAB, The maker of Docol.
I hope its to some help.

DOCOL RACING TUBES RECOMMeNDATIONS
welding
Docol R8 tube has very good weldability and low risk of
welding defects due to the low Ce-value, low amount of
impurities and clean, oxide free surface.
To reduce the width of the HAZ as much as possible it is
recommended to keep the heat input as low as possible.
Maximum heating temperature is 300°
C.
For both TIg/TAW and Mag/MIg following filler material
is recommended: AWS A5.28 ER80X-X and ASW A5.28
ER110X-X.
Welding parameters might need to be adjusted

[Oscar]

You forgot to post that cool CAD picture.


Since you're welding to 4130, I'd just be careful with preheat so the 4130-side doesn't cool down too rapidly especially since it's 1/4" thick. Like Jody says in his 4130 video, just go nice and slow. Not too slow of course, but slow enough so that the 4130-side doesn't quench itself and become brittle.

[Retorpak]

You forgot to post that cool CAD picture.

Hah cool cad picture as requested.

I also did some testing with docol and 1/4" 1018. 1/16 ceriated 100 amps and 3/32 er80s-d2. I think i will change tungsten to 3/32" and run it at 120-125 amps

I just started tigging so i still need a lot of practice before i weld the actual thing.

The problem with the 4130 spherical bearing cups is that i will have to keep it cold enough to prevent distortion. It is a press fit with clearances close to 0.001" I've seen people inserting brass, copper or aluminum cylinders into the cup to prevent it. But this will also quench the weld area making it brittle.

Maybe preheating that aluminum insert would do the job.





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[Arno]

The problem with the 4130 spherical bearing cups is that i will have to keep it cold enough to prevent distortion. It is a press fit with clearances close to 0.001" I've seen people inserting brass, copper or aluminum cylinders into the cup to prevent it. But this will also quench the weld area making it brittle.

Distortion will pretty much always happen IMHO. Even disregarding localised heating/warping you're always going to be fighting the shrinkage on the welds that will inevitably draw and distort the part a little.

That's why you usually often notice Jody mentioning that when he welds dimensionally critical things for machinists that they will do a 'post weld' cleanup/machining after he's done with the parts to bring everything into the correct size/dimension for final use.

Bye, Arno.

[kiwi2wheels]

It's standard practice to use a bronze bung in the bearing housing as part of the jig tooling.

Phosphor bronze works well. After tacking, preheat the bearing housing.

[Retorpak]

So here it is. I am not happy with the fit up though. So i will need to cut a new plate.







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