Btw. I followed the link and it does not explain what is happening with the same level of detail that Oscar did. Anyone with a full u derstanding of what alternating current is would have questioned it too. A/C has to have a negative wave or it is not a/c. It has to pass through zero even if for only 1 1/1000 of a second. You can learn something here too. Google the definition of alternating current.
"Drinking the kool aid" refers to blindly following what someone says without questioning it. It comes from an incedent where a cult leader , Jim Jones convinced his following to drink poisoned kool aid.
Good job Oscar
with the newer inverters introducing a whole bunch of new "PIXIE DANCES" the old explanations need to be refined and added to.
Old eyes/brain like mine need help too.
Thanks
Everlast 250EX
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
sedanman wrote:Btw. I followed the link and it does not explain what is happening with the same level of detail that Oscar did. Anyone with a full u derstanding of what alternating current is would have questioned it too. A/C has to have a negative wave or it is not a/c. It has to pass through zero even if for only 1 1/1000 of a second. You can learn something here too. Google the definition of alternating current.
The link gives EXPLICIT detail of what is happening with the arc AND how to adjust it for the desired effect. You obviously don't have much reading comprehension. You came on my thread with an arrogant attitude and got smacked down. Suck it up because you just got schooled.
sedanman wrote:Anyone with a full u derstanding of what alternating current is would have questioned it too. A/C has to have a negative wave or it is not a/c. It has to pass through zero even if for only 1 1/1000 of a second.
Sorry but probably half the guys on this site have a good grasp on the subject of electricity. You are the only one who questioned it for precisely the opposite reason.
To be fair: there technically is a zero point with inverter welders but it is on the order of 1/100,000 second switching capability. Nope, not making that up either. https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/a ... -frequency
exnailpounder wrote:
Bummer! Be glad you don't live around Chicago, welders pay is shit and jobs are few and far between. You'll get where you want to be soon.
That's the second time in a month that I failed that test. Took the cheater out of my hood today and now I can weld that crap without too much problem. This was a little too hot and not enough gas coverage. Had my arms extended way out because I was making a video of the weld (that's why it looks a bit wobbly). I think had I welded like this yesterday.....I would have a job today.
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Poland308 wrote:Oscar let us know how you like it. I just called CK a few weeks ago to make sure I had the right part number for that same control.
works just fine. On the inside, there is an eccentric center for the rotating "pulley" on the free end, so I made sure to set it so that there is the least amount of tension on the red plastic track. I also dabbed just a tiny bit of the super moly lube from harbor freight on a few parts, and it slides like a dream.
Do you think there would be a good way to mount a momentary switch to or inside the body? CK doesn't offer that control with the addition of the momentary switch.
On the inside, there isn't much space left over. I have a momentary switch wired up separately on it's own 2-wire cable. I ordered the connector from HTP with the schematic, so I have that readily available as well.
You could always make your own with some thin copper contacts, or a single key from a keyboard, if you're creative enough.
I'm going to get the thermal arc version and add the two wire switch as well. Did you get the CK controler that has the smaller body or the bigger one?
Poland308 wrote:I'm going to get the thermal arc version and add the two wire switch as well. Did you get the CK controler that has the smaller body or the bigger one?
Link? I didn't know the rotary track one came in different sizes.
@RamboBaby since this thread got way off, have you started welding on transmission yet. Let us know if you encounter problems. Don't be afraid to grind off some of your first passes when You start the build up. If you think you have porosity. It typically happens in the first pass on the cast. Just crap in cast or contamination causes it , don't always get it but better to get rid of it early on. You can get stud counter sunk using a just a drill and dremel if need be, it just takes patients and careful control with tools. Done some crazy reshaping on some of the cases instead of sending it to machine shop.
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.
The guy finally brought the machine over tonight. Was supposed to have brought it several days ago. None of the welding supply stores carry 4943 so I'm just gonna use 4043. Heck, none of em have ever even heard of 4943 so I had to look it up and show it to one of the shops.
Gonna get the thing cleaned up in the morning. Gonna preheat with an oxy/propane rig that the guy brought just for that purpose.
I'll let you guys know how it goes and post photos.
I also let him know that everyone recommended not reataching the ear and just building it up. He's good with that. Getting the hole back in it is gonna be his problem.
Edit:
You can see how filthy it is:
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Unless I need SMAW rods, I don't bother with LWS's. With Google at your fingertips, you can find anything. I get 4943 from Baker's Gas & Supplies for $55 a 10lb box. Cost the same as 10lbs of 4043. Shipped for free. You just have to email and ask about it, or use their online-chat service to get them to send you a quote. You have to remember that most salespeople at the counter at LWS's are not welders, they're sales people there to help assist with sales, but around here most don't know squat about welding. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure there are many very knowledgeable salespeople with working knowledge of various welding processes out there, but those are few and far between from what I've seen and read about, and are the exception and not the norm.
Oscar wrote:Unless I need SMAW rods, I don't bother with LWS's. With Google at your fingertips, you can find anything. I get 4943 from Baker's Gas & Supplies for $55 a 10lb box. Cost the same as 10lbs of 4043. Shipped for free. You just have to email and ask about it, or use their online-chat service to get them to send you a quote. You have to remember that most salespeople at the counter at LWS's are not welders, they're sales people there to help assist with sales, but around here most don't know squat about welding. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure there are many very knowledgeable salespeople with working knowledge of various welding processes out there, but those are few and far between from what I've seen and read about, and are the exception and not the norm.
I had already come to that same conclusion myself. Good with charts and computers but don't know jack about welding processes and materials. But I don't have a credit card or even a debit card to order things online.
Job is finished. I'm gonna let him take a bastard file to it to finish slicking it off (I can't find one around here).
He requested that I reinforce the top of the ear so I gave him and extra 1/4" or so. Looking at the first photo and the last photo you can see how much I added. If it causes interference then I'll let him deal with it. He's a mechanic so that shouldn't be a problem.
Started out welding with 140 amps. That ear may be thick but that case is not. Didn't really have a problem with the case drawing my heat away. No preheat was used other than a few passes with the torch to get it warm and toasty. Halfway through I stopped for a minute and had to crank it up to 170 amps in order to continue. Same toward the end of welding and I needed to crank it up to 200 amps for the final passes.
Advanced pulse is NO GOOD FOR CASTINGS! It just makes a mess of things.
You were right dirtmidget.....this thing welded pretty nice.
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Cut out the rest of the bolt hole for easr of welding. This thing was still an extreme pain in the butt.
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Boiled the trash out with 125 amps.
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Cleaned with stainless brush.
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Building it up.
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Filling in some voids.
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Slicked off.
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Glad it worked out for you. Yeah the Polaris castings are pretty nice to weld on. I don't hardly ever use pulse functions on my machine. If I do use it, it's typically on stainless steel.
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.
I totally discounted the validity of pulse settings on my machine until Rick_H showed me how to use them on stainless. That stuff comes out better than a robotic weld if you know how to use it correctly.
Thanks for the help brother!
