I've never noticed a flash with my Digital Elite, however I've only TIG welded with it, not sure that makes any difference. It is my understanding even if the lens didn't darken you're still protected from the UV, you'd just get flashed by the brightness.SlagMan wrote:Remember to check out the shifting speed of your helmet choices when buying a new one, as well. The flash might not be fast enough for your brain to actually register but you are still getting a short flash every time. And that can add up. The $300 Miller Elite shifts at 0.020 second. Cheap Hobo Freight helmets are actually faster at 0.025 and 0.030 sec. Then there is the Sellstrum SmartWeld Pro model that shifts at 0.0003 sec., which is a hundred times faster. But the Sellstrum has only two sensors which can be a problem sometimes.
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
- LtBadd
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Sun Apr 12, 2015 4:00 pm
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I finally got to try out the new Infinity helmet this morning and really like it so far. The head gear is a big improvement over the Lincoln in terms of not slipping or falling off. I do have to crank it down pretty tight but its more of an overall clamp on my head and comfortable vs the Lincoln which had a death grip on my forehead that wasn't.
The viewing area is HUGE from the inside. I was TIG welding at 230-250 amps with the dark set to 12 and could see everything quite clearly. I may go up to 14.
The lone issue, I opened up the double shop door for some fresh air and that triggered the helmet to go dark. Now I have blinding white shop lights and the sun was on the other side of the shop I had a good 10 feet of shade out from the door but it didn't matter. I tried closing the shop door half way but no go. I opened up the single bay door instead and the helmet worked fine. I'm sure its a setting but thought I would mention it.
Here I welded over the top of some welds and tacks trying to figure out the amp setting, that's 3/8 CRS on 1/2 CRS. The left side was at 230 the right side was at 250. I could probably back off to 220 I think. 200 was too cold.
Whoa after several beads my tungsten is still shiny and not dipped in the puddle I'm using a gas lens by the way.
The viewing area is HUGE from the inside. I was TIG welding at 230-250 amps with the dark set to 12 and could see everything quite clearly. I may go up to 14.
The lone issue, I opened up the double shop door for some fresh air and that triggered the helmet to go dark. Now I have blinding white shop lights and the sun was on the other side of the shop I had a good 10 feet of shade out from the door but it didn't matter. I tried closing the shop door half way but no go. I opened up the single bay door instead and the helmet worked fine. I'm sure its a setting but thought I would mention it.
Here I welded over the top of some welds and tacks trying to figure out the amp setting, that's 3/8 CRS on 1/2 CRS. The left side was at 230 the right side was at 250. I could probably back off to 220 I think. 200 was too cold.
Whoa after several beads my tungsten is still shiny and not dipped in the puddle I'm using a gas lens by the way.
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