Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
Futterama
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Jul 12, 2017 10:25 am
  • Location:
    Denmark

This thread is a great idea!

I'm also soon to be a hobby welder, so it's nice with a thread like this to learn from others that's just starting.

Which size tungsten and filler?

How many amps do you set on the machine?
nelson
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sun Jul 17, 2016 1:21 pm
  • Location:
    near philly

Gene.243 wrote:I'm on a pedal. Don't have 2T or 4T.
When you stop your car you lighten up on the brakes just before you stop to prevent that lurch when the wheels stop but the cars still moving a bit.

When I weld I do the same and dab a bit extra filler before the pool cools.

The thin aluminum is my toughest problem. If I haven't in a while I have to practice a bit before doing the actual parts.
Stone knives and bearskins.....and a NEW EVERLAST 164SI !!!
That's my newly shared work welder.
At home I got a Power Tig 185 DV. Nice, but no plasma cutting... Nice tight arc after a second.
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

Futterama wrote:This thread is a great idea!

I'm also soon to be a hobby welder, so it's nice with a thread like this to learn from others that's just starting.

Which size tungsten and filler?

How many amps do you set on the machine?
I'm glad to see someone likes it. I'm welding 1/8 inch Al with a 3/32 Tungsten and filler, with a 90 amp starting point.


No pictures today because Fido's butt.
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

nelson wrote:
Gene.243 wrote:I'm on a pedal. Don't have 2T or 4T.
When you stop your car you lighten up on the brakes just before you stop to prevent that lurch when the wheels stop but the cars still moving a bit.

When I weld I do the same and dab a bit extra filler before the pool cools.

The thin aluminum is my toughest problem. If I haven't in a while I have to practice a bit before doing the actual parts.

Many of my welds that I don't photograph get wide at the end. There is a point after about an inch that sometimes I remember to back off the pedal a bit. Sometimes I can get a button on the end, right now I am pleased if it does not crack as it cools. Yesterday I narrowed the width of my lap joints to about 1/4". Getting close. Today, Fido's butt.
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

I finally remembered what I changed on my power supply. I wanted to play with the cleaning balance and moved it toward more penetration. The result was not enough cleaning to see what was going on.
The good news is I'm back to my normal skill level.
Attachments
TooMuchPenetration.JPG
TooMuchPenetration.JPG (33.6 KiB) Viewed 2000 times
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

Found this on the inside.
Attachments
Splater.JPG
Splater.JPG (39.92 KiB) Viewed 2072 times
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

Back to my normal place to improve from.
Attachments
BackToNormal.JPG
BackToNormal.JPG (39.37 KiB) Viewed 2071 times
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

That one looked a little cold so I tried 95 & 100 amps.
Attachments
100A.JPG
100A.JPG (41.37 KiB) Viewed 2064 times
95A.JPG
95A.JPG (43.08 KiB) Viewed 2064 times
cj737
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:59 am

Try reducing the amount of filler rod you add each dab, and increase your travel distance between dabs. This will help even out your beads and flatten the fillet some.

A trick I've found helpful when approaching the end of a weld, is to begin tapering the foot pedal so I have to hold longer to get the same penetration. This does 2 things: it greatly reduces the cratering at the end, and it keeps the puddle from spreading out too flat due to accumulated heat in the base metal.

You can practice this on flat beads. Just make a 3-4" bead, get the start hot, dab, slide, dab, slide and when you reach the approximate end, ease back the pedal and make yourself hold there until the bead soaks in to be as wide as the rest of the bead. It's a very good practice drill to help with aluminum welding.

Your latest pictures show a tendency of over-filling and I would suspect that the root of that weld is probably cold or even hollow. You're melting the top of the plate (upper toe) which tells me you have lots of heat, but your arc length is either long, travel too slowly, or you're not pointing the arc into the joint. Or all of the above :) But you are doing pretty good work for being self taught on challenging alloy!
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

cj737 Thank you for your input. That was very constructive advice.
I'll give those things a try.
I can't take credit for being "self-taught," I did take an evening class at the vo-tech and the teacher still gives me advice.
cj737
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:59 am

Welding 1/8" aluminum will require more than 100 amps, at least to start. If on the pedal, crank up the amps to 150, get your puddle, then taper off until you feel like the puddle and your travel speed are comfortable for your coordination. There's no requirement to weld fast unless its stainless steel!
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

Thank you
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:41 am
  • Location:
    Laredo, Tx

I have a feeling your're not actually using the whole 100 or 95 amps, but I could be wrong. Are you babying the pedal or actually giving it full throttle to get the full listed amperage?
Image
mtncrawler
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:48 am
  • Location:
    Colorado

Hey there - another noob here so I would normally not chime in but as there are some real experts here. (I've just been lurking until now)

During my practice, I always wondered how well I modulate the pedal (how steady, how much amperage I was using...etc) as I attempted to control the weld pool on simple stringers (1/8" aluminum). What I did was use my IPhone and took a video of the control panel while I was welding. Then I played it back to see how much, when, and how steady I was actually controlling the amps used at different parts of the bead. Really opened my eyes.. :shock: Not my idea - I just remember seeing some "split" shots probably on Jody's channel or somewhere else...and thought I'd at least have a look at that aspect (I don't have the means to video the actual weld underway)
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

I ramp up quickly right after getting an arc started. Then move along at full throttle for an inch or so then start backing off to maintain bead width. At least that's my plan.
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

The learning curve, it is steep!
Attachments
thumb.JPG
thumb.JPG (19.66 KiB) Viewed 2112 times
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat May 24, 2014 5:55 pm
  • Location:
    Pittsburgh, PA

not sure if this would be of any help, but throwing my 2 cents into it... for myself, learning to do nice beads on aluminum means to at first be patient to burn through that initial oxide layer and have a nice shiny obvious puddle the size of the bead you want... then, and ONLY then start dipping and moving... and lean into your pedal hard, don't be shy, and at the same time move quickly, don't hang out... it's like, wait for it, wait for it, wait for it, GO! sorta like my sport of drag racing, ya gotta be patient at the tree but then don't delay when it's time to go and floor it!... I have been into setting my amps a bunch higher than would be needed to weld with on all my metals, to give myself room to play with and to let my foot control how hot I want to go, reading the weld and adapting to it instead of relying on my settings (or anything else, like size of filler rod, types of tungsten, how clean it is, etc, etc... let the weld tell you how fast or slow, how hot or hotter to go, how much to dip or not dip)... Not sure if that is of any help since I've only been doing it a couple of years compared to the veterans here, but like I said, my 2 cents (and that's all I found in my couch)...

and oh yeah, if you don't already have it, buy some of those 'TIG Fingers' from Jody, it costs more than ice but well worth it
can't believe it took me this many years to buy a diamond wheel for my bench grinder... what a difference
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

So I'm doing a lap joint and I start a puddle on the lower piece. I can get the puddle started just fine, my question is how do I get the top piece involved in the puddle?
User avatar

Gene, what machine are you using?
Richard
Website
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

Lincoln Precision Tig 225.
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

I did about a dozen of these today.
Attachments
July15.JPG
July15.JPG (32.38 KiB) Viewed 2068 times
User avatar

Gene, defiantly doing better, looks like you started slow, (metal was room temp) as you went an inch or so the puddle narrowed (good thing) as the plate warmed up and you got into a rhythm (looks best at this point) at the end maybe you're snapping off to quick, and/or your keeping the tungsten at one spot. When tapering off try moving the electrode in a small circle as you finish the weld
July15.JPG
July15.JPG (34.31 KiB) Viewed 2066 times
Richard
Website
Gene.243
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:43 pm
  • Location:
    Southwest Oklahoma

I just watched one of Jody's videos (on tungsten grind angles) and his torch angle was not anywhere close to straight up. He was pointing into the lap at about a 45-degree angle.
cj737
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:59 am

Gene.243 wrote:I just watched one of Jody's videos (on tungsten grind angles) and his torch angle was not anywhere close to straight up. He was pointing into the lap at about a 45-degree angle.
That's a good point to make: people always say 90* but that refers to the angle of the tungsten to the joint, but with a lap, you need to be at 90* to the "seam" or 45* away from horizontal while maintaining 90* to the puddle.

And by the way, if ice soothes your scorched skin, you're not welding hot enough! :D I did a bunch of thick aluminum Friday-Saturday, and the darn stuff was so hot the sweat pouring off me vaporized as it hit the aluminum. Sounded more like I was MIG welding with the sizzle of sweat. And yeah, it didn't smell great in the shop either :oops:
User avatar

visual of what CJ737 said ;)
end view.jpg
end view.jpg (11.05 KiB) Viewed 2036 times
dot.jpg
dot.jpg (10.95 KiB) Viewed 2036 times
Richard
Website
Post Reply