Troubles after torch upgrade

andreb · Fri May 12, 2017 11:53 pm

I recently upgrade my older Diversion 180 with a new Weldcraft A-150 (WP17) torch. The OE torch is bulky and I rarely use the fingertip controls plus the cable and cover are heavy and tough to manage. I also added a 12 ft. SuperFlex cable and gas lens kit.

I've tested the torch a few times now and the arc is the shits especially on AC with aluminum. It so bad I can't even maintain a puddle. Its ok on DC for steel but the arc seems very narrow and not at hot as the original torch. I added Dinse connectors so I could swap torches easily and put the standard rubber cable that came with the WP17 on the OE torch.

I suspected the connections from the torch to cable to Dinse so I've checked everything including the ground clamp. If I put the OE torch back on its business as usual and works great on AC. Is this just how SuperFlex cables perform? Is the arc different because of the gas lens?

I'm running 100% argon, Harris 601 reg @15-20 scfm, 2% ceriated tungsten, 1/16" and a #5 cup

TIA

cj737 · Sat May 13, 2017 7:52 am

15-20CFH sounds pretty high for a #5 cup, personally.

If I understand your post correctly, even if you use your original Torch connected to the new SuperFlex cable, all works fine?
If so, connect your new Torch to the OLD cable and test it. Problem the same? If so, you now know the culprit....

You probably need to check that the collet body is fully seated into the new torch, the correct insulator is in use, and that there are no gas leaks from around the torch head.

It looks like you "made" the SuperFlex cable instead of buying the cable pre-made with a DINSE already on it. I'm curious as to why? They are available in 12 and 25 FT lengths with the proper DINSE and a 17 torch on them. Even with a flexible head 17 torch...

andreb · Sat May 13, 2017 12:39 pm

cj737 wrote:15-20CFH sounds pretty high for a #5 cup, personally.

If I understand your post correctly, even if you use your original Torch connected to the new SuperFlex cable, all works fine?
If so, connect your new Torch to the OLD cable and test it. Problem the same? If so, you now know the culprit....

You probably need to check that the collet body is fully seated into the new torch, the correct insulator is in use, and that there are no gas leaks from around the torch head.

It looks like you "made" the SuperFlex cable instead of buying the cable pre-made with a DINSE already on it. I'm curious as to why? They are available in 12 and 25 FT lengths with the proper DINSE and a 17 torch on them. Even with a flexible head 17 torch...

CJ,

Correction: I have a #6 cup and I did try as low as 10 SCFH

I never tried the SuperFlex cable on my original torch. It has a std rubber cable but it does work fine. It DOES NOT have a gas lens just the standard collet assembly.

I will check the torch head assembly again but I did disassemble and reassemble it a few times.

I wouldn't say I "made" the cable. It was pre-made from the supplier with the correct ends on it. I bought a complete torch kit, gas lense, the Dinse connector and the SuperFlex cable. I swapped out the included rubber cable, installed the SuperFlex, the gas lens and the Dinse connector. I was not able to find a real Weldcraft 17 torch with a SuperFlex cable and gas-thru Dinse connector. That would have been a lot easier.

Thanks

Sat May 13, 2017 1:31 pm

I'll have to take a look at the torch that came with our Miller SW210 at work. It's a 17, gas-through Dinse, with 12' superflex.

A comment on that machine... Great crisp low-end starts on AC and DC It came with the upgrades pre-loaded, advanced squarewave, and I'll have to check, but it sounds like it welds at 120Hz. I'll probably post in the review section once I've had some real hood time with it (and read the specs and manual).

Steve

andreb · Sat May 13, 2017 6:56 pm

Not sure that it matters but...

The gas lens is a CK set, not original Weldcraft. After comparing the real-deal stuff on my WP20 there is a difference! Maybe that is the culprit? The back cap seats onto the insulator just before it grabs the tungsten. The cup seems to be OK. I'm going to try switching back to the standard collet today and see if that makes a difference.

andreb · Sat May 13, 2017 10:28 pm

So I was just in the shop doing some back to back testing. Its something about the stubby gas lens. When I put the standard collet body back into the WP17 torch it performs as expected both AC and DC. I had only tried the 1/16 set so just for kicks I tried the 3/32 set. Again, decent performance on DC but poor arc and lots of wandering on AC.

This is the stubby gas lens kit I ordered: http://www.usaweld.com/Stubby-Gas-Lens- ... 1stglc.htm

This is my torch: https://www.millerwelds.com/accessories ... e-wp1712rm

I'm almost tempted to by a Weldcraft lens to see if it make a difference!

cj737 · Sun May 14, 2017 6:12 am

andreb wrote:I'm almost tempted to by a Weldcraft lens to see if it make a difference!

Do! I've used CKs, and they're good (at least in my experience). But the Miller/Weldcraft gas lens works much better for me. Plus, there is a larger surface area on the WC than on the CK. I'm not suggesting this is your issue, because I get the CKs to weld just fine with my SuperFlex cable with a Dinse (I use a 25' on my Dynasty) but I have swapped the torch from the back to a WC too. I use the Flex head 17. I think HTP makes a 17/SuperFlex/Dinse combo that fits. You can just swap the torches to a WC and keep the CK as a spare in the drawer.