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Tried some practice on 16ga galvanized square tube. As you can see the weld to me looks really flat. If i go hotter ill burn thru and if I add more filler don't think it will melt in. How can I get that nice bead? Using 3/32 thoriated tungsten, 3/32 and tried 1/16 er70s2. 75 Amp max. I ground off the galvanizing. Oh #8 cup, gas lens, 13 cfh argon.
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exnailpounder
- exnailpounder
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Tig welds are always flatter than other process' but your bead looks cooked. Maybe too long of an arc length. Long arc length raises voltage and adds more heat. You should be at about 65 amps on 16ga. and using 1/16" wire. 3/32" is too big at that amperage and causes you to add more heat to keep it from sticking in the puddle. Be thankful your galvanizing wasn't impregnated or you would have had a really bad time try to weld. Short arc, puddle dip move repeat.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
Farmwelding
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Have you run tig on other thicker metal to get used to the foot pedal without burning through. Based on what I see I would say yes but just want to double check. But yeah like Jeff said-smaller filler. Don't expect a large weld anyways-it is just sheet metal
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
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Nick
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
exnailpounder
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You will earn your badge on thin stuff pavetim. Thick metal is easy to weld because you can't really blow holes in it and you have more reaction time when things head south. Try what I suggested and see what happens on that thin material.pavetim wrote:The thickest stuff I have is 7/32 L-angle. Can try and find something thicker in Monday like 3/8 or like that.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
I can't remember which vid, but in one open root tig vid of Jodies, he demonstrates feeding in to the pool to get a nice build on the back bead. I'll try to find it and edit it in.
The gist of it is that when the heat is right you can really shove the filler metal in and build a nice bead as you do, which seems to be what you're going for. The timing is everything though.
It'll all come together for you with a little time and effort.
The gist of it is that when the heat is right you can really shove the filler metal in and build a nice bead as you do, which seems to be what you're going for. The timing is everything though.
It'll all come together for you with a little time and effort.
You talking about his video where he tigs sort of backwards? He explains that as being able to add more metal, thought that was for building up material like if you wanted to machine it off. Not that I want a big bead, just looks flat and didn't think it was correct. Ill habe to find some more videos wish he would do more on thin stuff but thunk there are a few on tubing out there
Looks like hiding fingerprints. Take TIG, and melt the bead.
Once upon a time, I messed 200lbs of ss. Was making a lid for street cleaner tank, the parts were not bent perfectly and when Tigged, one surface plane was little bit shifted inwards, no big deal, but one mate suggested to use spoolgunlike mig gun, it was strange looking thing, as I remeber for placing cool weld beads(it didnt spatter), and place beads over the dent, I placed AND heat metal around began to bend in. In the end I`ve got a dumpling, many runs outside, and fat ss pocket inside. They discarded it. I was a practicant then. I respect thin metal.
Once upon a time, I messed 200lbs of ss. Was making a lid for street cleaner tank, the parts were not bent perfectly and when Tigged, one surface plane was little bit shifted inwards, no big deal, but one mate suggested to use spoolgunlike mig gun, it was strange looking thing, as I remeber for placing cool weld beads(it didnt spatter), and place beads over the dent, I placed AND heat metal around began to bend in. In the end I`ve got a dumpling, many runs outside, and fat ss pocket inside. They discarded it. I was a practicant then. I respect thin metal.
110 amps and move faster.
Ya need to melt metal quickly, so that the metal around don`t get hot. Black is cooked. Golden is what you need, set gas postflow to 1 sec and cool your weld end with it, when finished.
I want my TIG time back. (MAG at work).
Ya need to melt metal quickly, so that the metal around don`t get hot. Black is cooked. Golden is what you need, set gas postflow to 1 sec and cool your weld end with it, when finished.
I want my TIG time back. (MAG at work).
Move faster and add your filler faster, you are doing what looks like fusion welds to me, they are done without filler.
For starters, add more filler, work on one thing at a time. There's plenty of time to get everything down.
For starters, add more filler, work on one thing at a time. There's plenty of time to get everything down.
if there's a welder, there's a way
exnailpounder
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Your HAZ around your weld is HUGE...your waiting for a puddle. Up your amps, puddle dip and move. You're laywiring too. How's your fitup?pavetim wrote:Not super pretty but not cooked this time huh?
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
exnailpounder
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+1Olivero wrote:Move faster and add your filler faster, you are doing what looks like fusion welds to me, they are done without filler.
For starters, add more filler, work on one thing at a time. There's plenty of time to get everything down.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
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