I got my first welder a everlast powerpro 164. I have gone straight to tig/aluminum to start with. Starting to get the hang of it I can feed and do ok beads now.
I'm using 100% argon at about 18 SCFH ?
CK 17 flex torch with WeldingTipsAndTricks gas lens kit #7
120HZ
amps maxed out and using the foot pedal.
30% ish on cleaning.
I don't have 220 yet in my shop so I'm running on 110 and can get a max of about 133 amps..and not the full 164 my welder will go to.
I'm trying to weld some 1 3/4" x 1/8" wall aluminum square tube together. I cannot seem to form a puddle on inside corner joints like if I make a T out of it. Do I need to run on 220 to get more amps? I welded some way thicker steel together no problem.
Here is a picture, the long shiney beads that are not all crazy are my latest practice ones.
Tried to weld the corner, sat there forever wouldn't form puddle added filler anyway and made this mess.
Love the username. I've gotten "dirtface" on a KTM before.
More amps will definitely help with inside corners, but it can be done with the amps you have. You're going to have to get that tungsten in super tight to get both sides of a tee joint to puddle all the way to the corner, and draw the tungsten back as you add filler. When advancing, you're going to have to repeat this, getting the tungsten as close as you can without touching, to keep the arc from wandering to the sides (and the puddle from following). With the lower amps, preheating the metal will help. You don't need a torch; I prefer a heat gun. No danger of sooting up what you're about to weld. This will help immensely with getting the puddle established quickly and being able to advance consistently with the amps available.
In a pinch, a good hair dryer can get your metal to 200F if you're patient. With a heat gun, you can make 300-325F faster and get better results.
LOL yea, after a XC race a few years back i was completely covered in dirt. and came up with that user name.
I have a Kobalt heat gun I'll try that. as well as getting the tungsten in closer. I definitely did notice it jumping back and forth between the sides.
In addition to the other advice, what size fill rod and tungsten are you using? You can also reduce your cup size to help focus the heat a bit more.
When I work on inside corners, I establish my arc on one side, then go to full amperage, then rotate my cup to get the heat onto both sides. But arc length is critical for obtaining and maintaining the best control.
I have 1/16 as well but haven't even opened them yet.
Thanks for the tips.
I have the stubby torch kit from here.
I could try the stock torch I guess. but I was having a really hard time with it. its a #4 non gas lens. Unless i ran basically zero sickout it was impossible to get good gas coverage on anything.
Yo dirtface! Like all the rest said, more amps or more heat or both. Not too shabby for a beginner though. My wife and I both ride KTM's and she has had a dirty face from eating my dust, and some minor spills in the slick stuff, and the basic high side from the sandy stuff a few times too. Good times.
Nice, I would try more amps if I could.. I could wheel my cart close to the door my shop has a little apartment on it and the washer and dryer is right through the door lol. Could see if that helps...running it on 220 i should be able to get 30 more amps.
Havn't gone and tried yet today pre-heating and getting tungsten closer. hopefully one or both does the trick. thanks!
What KTM's do you have?
I have a 2007 950 Super Enduro and a 2014 500 EXC. have had a few different ones over the years but the 950 is probably never going away..collectors item now. ( KTM's I no longer have 04 450 SX, 06 450SX, 07 450 EXC, 08 250XC ).. the 250 XC smoker was by far my favorite Might have to have another one someday.
KTMDirtFace wrote:Nice, I would try more amps if I could.. I could wheel my cart close to the door my shop has a little apartment on it and the washer and dryer is right through the door lol. Could see if that helps...running it on 220 i should be able to get 30 more amps.
Havn't gone and tried yet today pre-heating and getting tungsten closer. hopefully one or both does the trick. thanks!
What KTM's do you have?
I have a 2007 950 Super Enduro and a 2014 500 EXC. have had a few different ones over the years but the 950 is probably never going away..collectors item now. ( KTM's I no longer have 04 450 SX, 06 450SX, 07 450 EXC, 08 250XC ).. the 250 XC smoker was by far my favorite Might have to have another one someday.
I have a couple of 2006 450 exc's and my wife has a 2003 450 exc and a 2005 400 exc. That is all we need for the woods riding we do and ride the highway to get there. Smokers are nice but the range is always a problem for what we would do.
KTMDirtFace wrote:Im going to try plugging into the dryer plug this week for 30 more amps. Doesn't seem like I can do it on 133 amps.maybe 164 will help
I think Jody has a video about using DC for aluminum for more thick aluminum and also turning the frequency down to like 50 to get more out of your welder. I am not sure though if he was using helium mix or not. I will try to find the video and post back...
edit: Ok, I found one of the videos but not the one I was looking for so if I find the other one I will post it later. Here is some in on welding aluminum with DC but they are using helium so it may not help you not but maybe in the future.
edit #2: Found it. Here is the video where Jody explains to turn down the frequency (using AC) on thick aluminum. I figure it's worth a try for you with thin aluminum and less available amps.
My understanding is round ended tungsten is only needed on older transformer machines. Looking at one of the last pictures looks like you used a wire wheel maybe to prepare the aluminum? Looks very rough to me. Using anything that may leave abrasives impregnated into the aluminum is not good. Even scratch pads are not good. I use a dedicated SS small brush then wipe down the mtl, the filler rod and tungsten with acetone. As well as a gas lens cup. I am just learning as well but have been having good success so far. On my test pieces 1/4 thick 135 amps seems sweet spot.
I don't have a picture yet, and I hadn't tried welding for a week or so.
But I got it to work without pre-heating.
Turning my Freq down to like 50 from 120 to get a wider cone and just camping and camping and swirling around..i finally got a puddle that consumed that inside corner. It was all contaminated from previous nonsense and hideous but I didn't care. I think I can do it for real next time.. need to see if I have any more of those scraps to do a real test again.
I looked back and noticed you are running a #4 cup? Thats too small and its hurting you quite a bit. With the cup that small, your heat zone is too narrow on inside corners, so essentially you aren't getting any heat into the sides unless you rotate your cup heavily. Bump up to a #7 or #8 with a gas lens. Put your frequency back up above 60 if you can (I know you dropped it due to power considerations) and have a go. Tight arc, light up away from the end, establishing the arc on the bottom side, full pedal, then rotate up and weld away!
I also am KTM bleed orange guy. Here is my first attempt at aluminum inside fillet. I ran at 135 amps peddle controlled, and 3/32 4043 filler. I use a #8 gas lens at 18 cfh maybe the reason your having issues, not a good gas coverage. All wiped off with Acetone including the filler then ss brushed. Had a good clean puddle no oxides which I do see in the porosity of the picture you posted.
Attachments
Fillet T joint on 3/16 T 6 Aluminum
Aluminum T joint 1.JPG (36.2 KiB) Viewed 2000 times
KTMDirtFace wrote:I don't have a picture yet, and I hadn't tried welding for a week or so.
But I got it to work without pre-heating.
Turning my Freq down to like 50 from 120 to get a wider cone and just camping and camping and swirling around..i finally got a puddle that consumed that inside corner. It was all contaminated from previous nonsense and hideous but I didn't care. I think I can do it for real next time.. need to see if I have any more of those scraps to do a real test again.
Thanks!
I would turn the frequency up. You have plenty of amps for the thickness. Turning up the frequency will focus the arc and let you put the heat where you need it. Establish your puddle on the bottom piece, then wick over to the vertical of the T. Then just keep you arc centered on the joint. I like to keep my frequency at 140 or more for t joints. Hope this helps!
Like all the rest said, more amps or more heat or both. Not too shabby for a beginner though. 
My wife and I both ride KTM's and she has had a dirty face from eating my dust, and some minor spills in the slick stuff, and the basic high side from the sandy stuff a few times too. Good times. 
