[MosquitoMoto]

A kinda/sorta threadjack:

1) A low-tech comparison. I started out 'making do' with a cheap belt sander to sharpen my tungstens and it works so well that I've never bothered upgrading. I'd love something decent but the initiative just isn't there.

2) Chips, you caught my attention with that VFD thing. Tell me...should I use one on my 240 volt, single phase (Australian) band saws to vary the speeds for cutting different materials? Pulleys are a pain in the butt!

[nb1234]

As a new-ish TIG welder myself, here's a few things (in addition to what's already been mentioned) that I've found to be helpful:
- Angle grinder with some flap discs to grind your workpieces down to clean, shiny metal (though I'm guessing you might already have this from your MIG gear). As everyone says, TIG demands clean metal. (You can also sharpen tungstens on an angle grinder.)
- A good way to cut tungstens for when you really blob one up and you need to cut off the tip. I use the corner of my grinding wheel to score it most of the way through, then snap off the rest.
- When you're first learning to feed rod, sometimes it's easier to work with half lengths of filler rod, so a way to cut filler rods. I use a small pair of bolt cutters - easier than regular diagonal cutters when cutting steel filler rods.
- Some sort of compartmentalized organizer box to hold all the little bits like collets, spare tungstens, cups, etc...

[Chips O'Toole]

2) Chips, you caught my attention with that VFD thing. Tell me...should I use one on my 240 volt, single phase (Australian) band saws to vary the speeds for cutting different materials? Pulleys are a pain in the butt!

It will definitely work if you don't mind spending the money. You may want some way to determine how fast the blade is moving, though. I guess you could buy a handheld tachometer off Ebay for ten bucks. Find the RPM at the drive pulley and do the math to get feet per second.

[Poland308]

Not all motors will run on a vfd. They need to have the correct insulation on the windings to handle the heat.

[Rupes]

Not all motors will run on a vfd. They need to have the correct insulation on the windings to handle the heat.

Probably from trying to crank up the torque at low speed.


I use one of these for grinding tungsten. Shit machine for sharpening drill bits but my Dad couldn't be talked out of it. Once he realized how crap it was it got shelved. I drilled a little hole in top as a guide. Can find these drill doctor rip offs on ebay for about 50 bucks. Replaceable diamond wheel, and the sharp edge of it cuts off fouled tungstens in seconds.

[electrode]

Or make one of these for cheap:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bH9h5Tu76As

[exnailpounder]

Someone is gonna come along and say "make sure you don't grind anything but tungsten on it" in 3...2....1...

[Chips O'Toole]

Not all motors will run on a vfd. They need to have the correct insulation on the windings to handle the heat.

I don't worry about that. It's unusual to run into a problem. You can buy inverter-duty motors, and they don't cost any more, but if you use whatever you have lying around the shop, you will probably be just fine.

I've never heard of heat being a problem that is specific to VFD's, but there is a well-known issue with insulation and voltage spikes.

If you run a motor too slowly for the fan to turn, it may get hot eventually. There are ways around that. Far as I know, my motor isn't inverter-rated, and I run it as slowly as I want with no problems. You're not going to run a belt grinder for hours at a time, so it's not going to build up heat without a chance to cool down.

Good motors are really cheap on Ebay, so I would rather blow one up once in a while than miss out on the convenience of speed control.

[Poland308]

Depends on the motor use. They have a couple of motor rebuilding shops here locally that do work on things from all over the country. A friend of mine who rewinds Motors said that it's the heat that gets to the old-style insulation first making it so that it breaks down then you get the internal arcing because of the freq drive. Inverter duty Motors or wound with a better grade of copper wire and the insulation is designed to handle higher temperatures. So in Kim's case with a saw that probably has very old and worn motor the likelihood that it will survive much of a life on a freq Drive is slim. I've seen lots of older mechanical equipment that's been retrofitted with freq drives. If they spend longer durations running a low-frequency I don't usually last long.

[Chips O'Toole]

The odds that the motor will work aren't slim at all. There are plenty of knowledgeable people using VFD's on old motors without problems. Really, ask around.

Surplus motors are cheap, so I don't worry about things like this. My advice is to go for it, and if the motor has a problem, spend a little more and replace it. Anyone who thinks a tool is worth a $300 investment can probably afford another $50-$125.

[Chips O'Toole]

Here's a useful forum thread about old motors and VFD's.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/tr ... fd-175787/

[LtBadd]

Those diamond wheels are great for grinding tungsten, they're quick, quiet and very efficient. Last a long time and provide excellent finish for repeatable and reliable work for todays TIG welder, noob or professional. just make sure you don't grind anything but tungsten on it.

[exnailpounder]

Those diamond wheels are great for grinding tungsten, they're quick, quiet and very efficient. Last a long time and provide excellent finish for repeatable and reliable work for todays TIG welder, noob or professional. just make sure you don't grind anything but tungsten on it.

I'm gonna keel you

[Chips O'Toole]

Speaking of tungsten, what exactly do I need?

[Farmwelding]

Watch Jodys video on comparing tungsten. Really it depends on the application.

[exnailpounder]

2% Lanthanated will cover most of your needs. 3/32" and 1/16"

[Chips O'Toole]

Thanks. So can I assume that any electrode fitting the description you gave will fit my torch? I have never even seen a TIG torch up close, so I have no idea whether all electrodes fit all torches or what.

[exnailpounder]

Thanks. So can I assume that any electrode fitting the description you gave will fit my torch? I have never even seen a TIG torch up close, so I have no idea whether all electrodes fit all torches or what.

You have to get the collet that fits the dia. of the tungsten you will use. You can use any size tungsten in a standard collet body. The collet is what tightens down to hold the tungsten when you twist the back cap. You need collets for gas lens' too. You have to buy a gas lens for each tungsten size. Don't bother with collet bodys, just get gas lenses very cheap and once you use one you will never go back to a collet body.

[Chips O'Toole]

It sounds like I need to have the torch in my hands to see exactly what I need. I found some tungstens on Amazon, so I guess I have that covered.

[Otto Nobedder]

The things your tungsten touches will be sized for that tungsten. If you buy exclusively 3/32 tungsten, regardless of alloy, you will need fitted parts. Standard collet bodies, or gas lenses (gas savers), and the collets that go with them, should both match the size of your tungsten. Other than that, anything goes. I highly recommend CK's wedge collet. I know I'm beginning to sound like I shill for them, but they're really that good. Standard collets will twist and shorten over time, for a faster replacement, but the wedge collet requires so little tightening force that you're unlikely to ever damage them, but simply wear them out over time.

Steve S

[Chips O'Toole]

Wish I knew exactly what came with the welder.

[Otto Nobedder]

Wish I knew exactly what came with the welder.

All you need to know is the dash number.
-9, -17, -20, -26, etc, and you can buy stuff for it.

Steve S

[bruce991]

Wish I knew exactly what came with the welder.

After buying two welders in past yr I found you get two cups, 6 and 8 two collets 1/6 and 3/32 one tungsten 3/32, cables, 110v 220v pigtails, regulator, arc positive cable, maybe a pedal.

[bigfabdaddy]

I ordered my 2017 Alpha TIG 200x. Now just waiting for it to ship. Ordered it on Jan 31s and amazon is claiming it will take till the end of march for me to get it.

I already have
6" bench grinder (just for tungsten)
6 inch Dewalt grinder
flap disks
grinding stones
cutoff wheels
a Chinese gas lens kit (wish I had spent the cash on CK's after seeing what I got)
a Milwaukee organizer (for all the small tiddly bits)
.040, 1/16, 3/32, 1/8 2% lanthanated electrodes
2 weld hoods (2 so that I can teach my little girl how to do it once I figure it out)
25' argon hose (so I can leave the tank mounted next to the table)
Tillman gloves

along with a few other odds and ends that I know I am forgetting.

Is there anything you can see that I clearly missed?

I also have a SP 175 PLUS that I have used for a few years so a have a few other things laying around.

I know I still need to get metal to build a table and a cart but I cant build anything big due to my current work area being set up in my basement. All my clamps seem to have grown legs and walked off since the last time I moved so I will be picking up some of them sometime soon also.

I also plan to get a water cooler for it later. (yes I want to open a shop for work on metal and cars)

['Stang]

Watch Jodys video on comparing tungsten. Really it depends on the application.

videos

Buy Jody's videos. I have a laptop in my shop. I can be welding, and refer to Jody's videos for settings instead of wasting time trying to dial it in.