Hi,
Just looking for some feedback, I have a job that requires me to weld ( cap off ) little plugs in aluminum bronze, these are holes for water to travel through and cool the block. I am using a syncrowave 351 , dcen, pure argon for gas, using gas lense #8 cup and 1/8 tungsten electrode, the filler rod is sodel 661 aluminum bronze. I have tried welding this block ( 2x1.5x6.5 long )
and can't get a nice bead , using 250 amps and using pulse ( rule of 33, although the pulsing only goes to 10 pps, for that I am using 7 ) . The problem I am having is the filler rod is balling up , almost running away from the torch , I am also using the lay wire technique. Any constructive suggestions are very welcome.
Thanks in advance !
Cheers !
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kiwi2wheels
- kiwi2wheels
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Are the plugs flush with the block surfaces? If they are below , break the hole edges slightly.
Try using AC and the pedal only, no pulse, and use the filler wire as per normal welding. 15-20CFH flow rate.
Try using AC and the pedal only, no pulse, and use the filler wire as per normal welding. 15-20CFH flow rate.
Hi Kiwi,
The plugs are about .03 " below the surface . I have never used AC function on a welder , but will give it a try.
I was playing with it , and found if I angle the torch away from the rod the back of the flame will melt the rod and form a decent bead, not sure if this is " correct" but it's not too bad .
Thanks for your comment ! Just trying to learn all I can .
Cheers !
The plugs are about .03 " below the surface . I have never used AC function on a welder , but will give it a try.
I was playing with it , and found if I angle the torch away from the rod the back of the flame will melt the rod and form a decent bead, not sure if this is " correct" but it's not too bad .
Thanks for your comment ! Just trying to learn all I can .
Cheers !
CanMoulder
- CanMoulder
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You have to Preheat the aluminum bronze before welding
when your dipping you need to have the torch pointed away from the filler rod or the rod will melt before you dip
think of how you weld aluminum but with a lot more heat
you might want to even try Helium instead of argon
my personal opinion is unless your doing a sharp corner you need to shut off the pulsing
I'm just a plastic injection mold maker who welds on tools so this is just my opinion
Hope it Helps
Kevin
when your dipping you need to have the torch pointed away from the filler rod or the rod will melt before you dip
think of how you weld aluminum but with a lot more heat
you might want to even try Helium instead of argon
my personal opinion is unless your doing a sharp corner you need to shut off the pulsing
I'm just a plastic injection mold maker who welds on tools so this is just my opinion
Hope it Helps
Kevin
Canmoulder,
Thanks for the advice , not to contradict kiwi , do you weld on AC ? I found AC on my machine is almost inconsistent, loosing ground or something, so DC is my preference if possible . As for preheating , tried it that way, my data sheet says to preheat between 200-500 , but we have no oven, tried to use oxy/ acetylene, and it cool really fast , so fast that I can get a torch on in fast enough to stay in the range required.
Thanks again !
Cheers
Thanks for the advice , not to contradict kiwi , do you weld on AC ? I found AC on my machine is almost inconsistent, loosing ground or something, so DC is my preference if possible . As for preheating , tried it that way, my data sheet says to preheat between 200-500 , but we have no oven, tried to use oxy/ acetylene, and it cool really fast , so fast that I can get a torch on in fast enough to stay in the range required.
Thanks again !
Cheers
kiwi2wheels
- kiwi2wheels
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The AC cleans the surface ( like the flux when brazing with O /A) Experiment with AC on some scrap AB or steel to see the effect.
Re the welder, what type of tungsten are you using, and what do you have on hand ? Are the points in good condition and gapped correctly ? https://www.manualslib.com/manual/58380 ... e=3#manual
Where is your HF control set ?
The preheat is definitely a good practice. If its cooling down too quick on the table, can you run a ground directly to the block and put it on a firebrick ?
Is this a one off job or do you have a run of them ?
Re the welder, what type of tungsten are you using, and what do you have on hand ? Are the points in good condition and gapped correctly ? https://www.manualslib.com/manual/58380 ... e=3#manual
Where is your HF control set ?
The preheat is definitely a good practice. If its cooling down too quick on the table, can you run a ground directly to the block and put it on a firebrick ?
Is this a one off job or do you have a run of them ?
- LtBadd
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If it's cooling that fast then you haven't put enough preheat into the part, are you using a rosebud tip on the oxy/acetylene torch? The bigger the part the longer its going to take.Laabs73 wrote:Canmoulder,
. As for preheating , tried it that way, my data sheet says to preheat between 200-500 , but we have no oven, tried to use oxy/ acetylene, and it cool really fast , so fast that I can get a torch on in fast enough to stay in the range required.
Thanks again !
Cheers
A photo or 2 would be real helpful.
Richard
Website
Website
Thanks for all suggestions, I ended up figuring out what was going wrong, the perfect storm it seems ,
1: Turns out plug material was made of Brass
2: My tungsten for AC ( pure tungsten ) was not large enough for
the amps I wanted to weld with . ( 205 amps , 3/32 tungsten)
3: Brass contaminated bronze so holes kept forming.
Long story short , ended up using 205 amps , DCEN , no pulsing,
and was able to fill the holes .
Took some time but got it in the end , not the prettiest weld but it will work.
It was a one off.
1: Turns out plug material was made of Brass
2: My tungsten for AC ( pure tungsten ) was not large enough for
the amps I wanted to weld with . ( 205 amps , 3/32 tungsten)
3: Brass contaminated bronze so holes kept forming.
Long story short , ended up using 205 amps , DCEN , no pulsing,
and was able to fill the holes .
Took some time but got it in the end , not the prettiest weld but it will work.
It was a one off.
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CanMoulder
- CanMoulder
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Looks awesome
One way to Keep heat in it is to Elevate it off the welding table and clamp your ground right to the block
sorry for my late response but i can only check here one weekends
yes i only use DC
Kevin
One way to Keep heat in it is to Elevate it off the welding table and clamp your ground right to the block
sorry for my late response but i can only check here one weekends
yes i only use DC
Kevin
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